4 great lures for surface action

Taking predators off the top is a spectacular way to catch perch, pike and even zander, so here are your best options for action...

When it comes to lure fishing there is nothing more electrifying than surface fishing.

Watching your piece of brightly coloured plastic wobble, pop and gyrate its way across the top of the lake before, in the blink of an eye and a flurry of water, it is violently snatched and you find yourself into a hungry predator. 

With the water at its warmest, the prey fish are also close to the top and the predators have learned over the years that these unsuspecting fish make for a very easy meal at this time of the year. 

Like all branches of lure fishing, lures that are designed to fish ‘on the top’ all have similarities, but each type of lure has slight differences, which means it is either fished/retrieved differently or it ‘fishes’ very differently. 

Some are designed to ‘pop’, others jerk from side to side, while some move in an almost snake-like action. 

And you never really know which one will be the ‘trigger’ on any particular day. 

With this I mind, here is a brief guide to the main types of surface fishing lures.  

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Spro Ikiru

At first glance these types of lure seem to offer the angler very little. There is no propeller, spinner blade or nose cone to create an ‘action’ in the water.  

To get the most out of what is known as a ‘walk the dog’ lure, you need to work the rod tip back and forth while jerking the reel handle in time. It’s a difficult art to master at first but, once mastered, the lure will ‘walk’ across the surface in a pleasing zig-zag motion.

The other downside is that it is tiring on the wrists, but it is a hypnotic way to fish. A true walk the dog lure is best fished in relatively calm conditions, because they are easily knocked off their stride in choppy water. 

They can be cast a long way though, so you cover a lot of water quickly and tend to be more effective when fished at a slow to medium pace.

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Sebile Splasher

This type of lure is characterised by the concave frontage. This sees it doing ‘what it says on the box’!

As you retrieve this lure, you also flick the rod tip down to exaggerate the movement and create the ‘pop’ as the lure’s concave part pushes the water. 

Poppers make varying amounts of noise and disturbance and, as far as surface lures go, they are the most stable in choppier conditions.

Some anglers mistakenly believe that surface lures are to be used only when the conditions are flat calm, but a popper works best if there is a wind on the water and even the occasional white horse.

Its stability and relentless action can help bring the fish up to the surface and the accuracy with which you can fish them really helps to fish tight areas where the predators often lurk.

If the popper does not feel right on the retrieve and is behaving strangely, it has most likely turned over in flight and the trebles have caught your line. Wind in and check – this does happen from time to time.

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Koppers Live Target frog

Frog lures are far from being a new concept. And when it comes to enticing a bite from a hungry predator, they are simply unbeatable at certain times in and around particular features such as lily beds that are natural nursery areas for young frogs.

Loved by pike and perch alike, frog lures can also be particularly effective when looking to target chub. 

This one has a hollow body, with the two hooks wrapping around the sides. This makes it weedless, so it is ideal to fish into any areas of heavy vegetation.

To fish a frog lure, you can either jerk it back in a series of hops, making quarter turns of the reel handle before briefly pausing, or twist the rod side to side, so you can fish in a similar way to a ‘walk the dog’ lure.

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Halco Nightwalker

These unusual looking lures have a quite distinct wing-shaped nose. It is this feature that enables the lure to ‘walk’ and ‘crawl’ across the surface, resembling a distressed fish, frog or rodent.

Fished with a simple retrieve or a slightly jerky movement will see you catching pike, perch and even zander. The walking action makes a very distinct popping noise as it scurries across the top. 

A lure like this can even be fished at night, as the combination of the noise, action and the fact its propeller frontage glows in the dark, makes it a very interesting and very often deadly lure.

Big-pit reels vs. Freespool reels

Reels are among the most expensive items a carper will buy, so picking the right one is crucial. We’ve pitted the two main styles against each other to help you decide

BIG-PIT REELS

STYLE OVER SUBSTANCE?

Big-pit reels, so called due to their original deployment on large gravel pits, are the Hummers of the carping world. Big and brash, they are far from subtle. To some anglers, their looks are the key selling point. Classic designs like the Daiwa Tournament range are still big sellers 25 years after they arrived on the scene.

FROM BITE TO FIGHT

With the exception of a couple of examples – such as Shimano’s Big Baitrunner and Daiwa’s Infinity – big-pit reels need their clutches adjusting by hand before you can lift into a screaming take. To some anglers, this tactile control is a Godsend, but to others it’s unecessary fiddliness when you least need it. 

CASTING POWER

Derived from long-casting sea reels, these big-carp reels are designed for launching rigs a long way. The bigger spools and the slower speed at which they oscillate up and down on the retrieve means better line lay (the way the line settles on the spool) and less friction on the line during the cast. In short, bigger reels equal longer casts.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

All that casting power comes at a price. Literally and figuratively. Big-pit reels are generally more expensive than freespool reels and they’re just as heavy in your hand as on your wallet. For stalking and other tactics that require regular recasting they’re just a bit too bulky.  Respooling them is also time and money intensive.

FREESPOOL REELS

STYLE OVER SUBSTANCE?

It is not all that long ago that the Shimano Baitrunner was the only reel you needed if you fished for carp. The iconic design, with its chunky freespool lever, was instantly recognisable on the bank and set you apart as a specimen hunter. However, the recent proliferation of reel producers has challenged this freespool monopoly.

FROM BITE TO FIGHT

This is the smaller reel’s strong suit. The freespool function, which was radical when the Baitrunner was launched, allows line to be peeled from the spool when the bail arm is closed. A turn of the handle disengages this function as you pick up a bite. Both the freespool and normal drags can also be fine-tuned for ultimate control.

CASTING POWER

The freespool reel’s weakness is its casting ability. That’s not to say you can’t reach 100 yards with one, but you will be limiting the range at which you can comfortably fish. That said, freespool reels are considerably lighter than their big-pit siblings, so if regular recasting is required – when surface fishing, for example – opt for a smaller reel.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

If you’ve ever compared a big-pit reel with a freespool version, one of the most surprising differences is the retrieve rate, the speed at which line is put back on the spool when reeling in. Try reeling in from 100 yards with both and it’ll feel like it takes forever with the smaller reel. Not a problem if you’re fishing at short range, mind.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING THE RIGHT REEL FOR YOU

SPOOL SIZE

Measured in thousands, spool sizes generally dictate the overall size of the reel. Most spools will also tell you how much line they hold. A fully loaded spool casts better.

GEAR RATIO

For example, 4.9:1 means one turn of the handle rotates line around the spool 4.9 times. The bigger that number, the quicker you’ll reel in. Important when buying a spod reel.

CLUTCH OR BACKWIND?

How do you play your fish? Either way is valid and it’s important to be very comfortable with the one you choose. Big-pit reels, however, generally have better drags.

How to cast a carp rod accurately

Technique in carp fishing is as crucial as in any sport. Here’s how to master the casting basics for distance and accuracy

It's a compliment often paid to footballers: “He does the simple things well.” A good midfielder might not win adulation for his five-yard passes, but you’d soon notice if they started going awry.

The same can be said of top anglers and casting. If you ever get to watch a talented carper in session – and plenty of venue open days make this a possibility – then pay attention to their basic skills. A good angler makes casting look so effortless you can’t help but wonder if their overall talent goes hand in hand with their lead-chucking ability.

Nash employee Mike Wilson is just such a carper and his tips are well worth heeding.

On the banks of the beautiful Chigboro Fisheries in Essex, Mike explains: “Casting is all about balance and feel. I used to really take my time – I would stand there for ages before I cast. In fact, once you know what you’re doing, it’s best just to swing the lead behind you and go for it. Don’t tink too hard about it. If you wait for ages then that’s when things can go wrong.”

Like all sporting techniques, constant repetition improves performance.

Mike continues: “Practice. Go to a field and, if there are people around, then cast a dog ball so it’s perfectly safe.

“Or, if you’re not catching fish, don’t be afraid to pack up an hour early and have a casting competition with your friends. Obviously, make sure you are not disturbing anyone else’s fishing.”

Underarm casting

Almost all carp casts are overhead ones, but underarm lobs should not be ignored.

Mike says: “It’s all about balance and rhythm. With practice you will just ‘feel’ when it’s right to let go. Don’t rush it.”

Find your footing

The main image shows the stance you need to adopt for a stable, powerful cast.

Point your leading leg in the direction you want your rig to go and ‘brace’ the back leg at right angles to this. The power in the cast comes from transferring your weight from your back foot to the front one. On a long-distance cast you can rock back on your back foot and stamp your front foot forward as you release the line.

The image above shows Mike scuffing a mark in the ground so he is able to cast from the same point each time.

Get maximum leverage

How not to cast

How to cast

Carp rods have relatively long handles for a reason.

Think back to your school science lessons and you’ll remember that a longer lever is capable of exerting more force through the pivot point.

If the bottom hand grips the rod butt as shown in the top diagram you are vastly reducing the power you can generate in the cast.

Grip the bottom of the rod and pull down with this hand during the cast.

The key to smooth and powerful casting is getting both your arms to work in harmony with each other. One pulls as the other one pushes.

As with all sporting techniques, practice makes perfect, so don’t just cast when you’re on a fishing trip.

Get a grip!

How not to cast

How to cast

The point at which you grip the rod and reel is your pivot point, so it’s vitally important it is both comfortable and secure.

As you can see from the photographs above, a balanced approach is what’s needed.

With your thumb on the top of the reel seat, wrap two fingers around each side of the reel stem.

Use just one finger to pluck the line from the spool – don’t clutch at it with a fist. This aids control when it comes to releasing the line during the cast.

Line up to your target

All far banks have some kind of feature that you can line up your cast with. Remember that what is easily visible in daylight may be quite the opposite once the sun goes down. It’s worth noting the tallest tree for use as a silhouette marker in darkness. You could even temporarily place tinfoil in a branch to reflect torchlight.

Get your cast right

1. When lining up your cast take a moment to visualise your rig’s landing zone and the force you think you’ll need to get it there.

Once you are happy that everything is in place, just go for it. Yes, crack-offs and tangles can be embarrassing but if you think about the worst-case scenario as you are about to whip the rod through the air then mistakes are bound to happen. Relax and, to borrow a sporting slogan, just do it.

2. When the lead is in flight, relax and keep your movements to a minimum. Watch the rig’s progress and be aware of anything untoward like a wind knot or tangles. If you react to these early enough and put the brakes on the cast you can avert crack- offs and serious tangles.

Another point worth noting is not to settle for second best. If your first cast was ‘nearly there’, reel in and get it ‘spot on’. This extra effort separates good anglers from poor ones.

3. If you’re using a line clip to get better accuracy (and the line hitting the clip also helps straighten your rig as it pierces the water surface) then use your fingers to ‘feather’ and slow down the last few metres of line before it hits the buffer.

In conjunction with this, bring the rod tip back in the air and cushion the impact on the clip by pushing the rod forward again. If you hit the clip abruptly, the line’s elasticity can make the rig spring back towards you.

Give yourself enough line

How much line you have from the rod tip to your lead priot to casting is known as the ‘drop’.

Again, it’s all about the science of leverage and momentum, but a fail-safe rule is to line up your lead with the spigot (or join) in your rod. Obviously this only works if it’s a two-piece model!

Check for tangles

It might seem simple, but we have all seen or done it – wound up a big cast only to realise the line is tangled around the rod tip just milliseconds before you hear a sickening crack and see an unattached rig sailing into the water. Get into the habit of checking the tip ring for tangles on every cast. It takes no time at all to double and triple check.

Guide to carp leads

They come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and textures, and each one is designed for a specific purpose. Here’s how to choose the right lead for the job.

Pear lead

The real all-rounders of the lead world, these rotund weights are well-suited to a wide variety of angling situations.

Because they share the same aerodynamic qualities as a balloon, they’re not going to zip to the far horizon, but they are extremely stable when in flight.

The even weight distribution makes them easy to cast accurately and also helps your rigs below the surface: the dumpy body means the fish will feel the full weight of the lead almost as soon as they straighten out your hooklink. 

On the flipside, these weights will bury themselves, and your rigs, in weed at the drop of a hat so keep them on firm ground.

At a glance

Casting range: Good for 80 yards
Best suited for: Firm spots
Ideal weight: A solid 3oz is ideal

Textured flat pear

This lead kills two birds with one stone, so to speak. Firstly, the flatter design makes 1oz-1.5oz versions of these leads ideal for fishing in weed and silt, where the weight can sit on top of bottom debris.

Secondly, the textured coating (which is available on any type of lead) is not just for decoration. Where rig concealment is key, these sorts of weights are just a little bit more subtle. If gin-clear margins are your domain, these leads, which don’t cast brilliantly, are ideal.

Another advantage of the textured coating is that the lead itself can be dunked and coated in liquid attractors. This sneaky tip can really help draw fish to your hookbait.

At a glance

Casting range: Short to medium
Best suited for: Margins or silt
Ideal weight: As light as possible

Gripper lead

Unlike the stealthy weight to the left, the gripper lead is bold and sturdy. These knobbly brutes are great for extreme conditions. As the name suggests, they hold the bottom firmly and are a great choice when you need your rig to stay put on the side of a gravel bar or an island margin.

Grippers are also an excellent choice on rivers, where currents and undertows are a constant foe. On big waters, especially those on the continent, this design is also popular for anchoring a rig in place. They won’t cast well, but if you’re dropping one of these leads over the side of a boat then it really doesn’t matter.

At a glance

Casting range: Not great!
Best suited for: Rivers or slopes
Ideal weight: A meaty 4oz+

Inline lead

Perhaps a little out of fashion these days, inline leads still earn their place in your tackle box.

With no swivel attachment to dilute the bolt effect, a carp will feel the heaviest part of these leads almost instantly after picking up a hookbait.

Inlines are also the only leads to use in solid PVA bags, with the version shown here sporting a longer stem for easy twisting and sealing of the PVA material.

The downside of inlines is their nose-heavy design. Your hooklink swivel will be the first thing to hit the lakebed, potentially leading to tangles and poor presentation if the bottom is weedy or silty.

At a glance

Casting range: Among the best
Best suited for: Solid PVA bags
Ideal weight: Limitless options

Distance lead

Sleek and streamlined, these torpedo-shaped sinkers are built for speed!

If you’re looking to hit big distances with your casts then these really are the only leads up to the job. Good weight distribution makes them stable and accurate.

 Distance leads lend themselves to a variety of presentations, but single hookbaits, unburdened by PVA bags or sticks, will help them perform to their true potential.

Apart from your terminal rigs, these weights can also be used as feature-finding tools. Some anglers carve grooves into the flanks of their leads to pick up samples of the lakebed for a full picture of the sub-surface world.

At a glance

Casting range: 100 yards+
Best suited for: Long range
Ideal weight: 3.5oz+

Method feeder

A few anglers believe feeders should be left behind when targeting specimen carp, but to do so is to miss out.

Method feeders might have their origins in match fishing, but they still account for plenty of big fish.

Flatbed Methods, like the one shown here, are easy to pack with bait and are designed for maximum stability in flight.

The presentation they offer is similar to that of the ubiquitous PVA bag, but with much less effort and cost.

Remember that a fully laden Method is a hefty beast, so make sure your rod and mainline are up to the job of casting one out.

At a glance

Casting range: Short to medium
Best suited for: Day sessions
Ideal weight: 2oz is ample

Guide to carp hooks

Together, these four main hook types will cover every carp-angling situation you’re likely to encounter. Learn their strengths to ensure you pick the right one for the task in hand.

The wide gape

Perhaps the most classic looking carp pattern, a wide-gape hook is a good all rounder.

They are great for use with bottom baits but come into their own with buoyant baits, either in the form of pop-ups or on the surface.

In the latter scenario, wide-gape hooks are chosen due to their high strength-to-size ratio.

As explained in the panel (right), the large gape (the distance between the point and the shank) improves the chances of the hook catching hold as the fish expells your hookbait.

At a glance

Use for: Surface/pop-up rigs
Try these: Fox SSBPs

The curved shank

Whereas the other hooks on this page have a straight backbone, these hooks are curved in the shank.

Popular in the fly-fishing world, carp anglers realised their coarse potential many years ago.

The curved shank is considered to make these hooks harder for the fish to get rid of.

Some more advanced set-ups, such as the KD rig, rely on the hooking mechanics of curved-shank hooks.

At a glance

Use for: Clued-up fish
Try:  Korda Kaptor Kurvs

The stiff rigger

The difference with this hook is the pronounced out-turned eye, which makes this pattern perfect for use with stiff materials like fluorocarbons.

Though such materials have improved in recent years, fluorocarbons and monfilaments were traditionally found to weaken considerably when tied to an inturned-eyed hook with a knotless knot.

These days, chod rigs are all the rage and these hooks are the only sensible choice for such a presentation.

At a glance

Use for: Chod rigs
Try: Nash Chod Twisters

The long shank

Long and thin, these hooks are perfectly suited for use with bottom baits.

If you are fishing with particle baits such as sweetcorn or tiger nuts, then these hooks are the perfect accompaniment.

The long shank can push your bait too far away from the point of the hook, but trapping the hair on the bend with a piece of tubing will eliminate this problem.

At a glance

Use for: Bottom baits
Try: Avid LSKs

HOOK BASICS

EYE

Traditional eyed hooks have always been associated with big-fish anglers such as carpers due to their strength, though these days the rules are less clear cut. Hooks with out-turned eyes are designed for mono and stiff materials, and those with in-turned eyes are traditionally best when using braided hair rigs.

POINT

The type of hookpoint you choose depends mainly on the bottom being fished over. Straight points are best for weedy swims as they catch weed less eaisly, beaked points for gravelly bottoms as they are harder to blunt and long points for carp with firmer mouths.

GAPE

Wide gape hooks lend themselves to large baits such as big pellets and boilies, while those with a narrower gape were traditionally suited to side-hook small baits like maggots and casters.

SHANK

Short-shanked hooks are a better choice for baits that are hair rigged tight to the back of hooks, while long shanks are preferred by by carpers looking to increase the hooking angle.

FINISH

Most hooks used to have a silver finish (a). However, nowadays many anglers are obsessed with making their hooks blend in with the lakebed – hence the emergence of low-glare options in grey (b) and other colours such as brown (c).

How to add 30 yards to your cast

Since setting up and managing the England feeder team I’ve learnt crucial lessons which have made a huge difference to the way I cast in order to achieve distance and accuracy.

Just as well... after fishing Irish festivals for the first time in ages last year, and with rumours of a Feeder World Championships where we’d have to cast 100-plus yards across a Belgian canal, I realised I needed a really long cast in my repertoire.

I wasn’t alone either. Holding the feeder team trials last year, it became apparent that a lot of good anglers struggle to reach 60yds-plus, and it also surprised me that some don’t realise how far this is.

Believe me, a 60yd-70yd cast is a long way on standard match gear, and once you have to go further than this it’s time for specialised tackle and techniques.

Before you even attempt a long cast, you need to have the right tackle. Choose a rod that will allow you to reach the distance with a little in reserve should the wind increase.

The rod also needs to be fishable at long range, with a tip soft enough to allow you to see bites at distance, and a playing action that will keep fish losses to an absolute minimum. You can cast a beachcaster to the horizon, but what’s the point if you can’t see a bite once you’ve done it?

Line choice is also crucial. Too thick and you won’t be able to get enough distance, too thin and you’ll crack off. I’ve settled on 5lb Preston Power Max for distance fishing now, but when you’re talking 70-80yds-plus, a shockleader is needed to avoid cracking off. This cushions the power of the cast, while the 5lb line gives you the distance.

My shockleader is the same, but in 10lb breaking strain, and runs from the quick-change bead I use to connect my hooklength to the reel itself, so it’s around 17ft-18ft long in total.

When I’m ready to cast I have around 1m of line hanging between rod-tip and feeder and a few turns of my shockleader on the reel spool itself. I know some anglers use braid for distance casting, but I just don’t get on with it. It’s far too aggressive for my liking because of the lack of stretch, and I’d only use it for shy-biting roach on the feeder.

Two things severely hamper the distance of your cast. First, wind direction and strength. If it’s blowing in your face it can take 10yds-15yds off a cast. Conversely, a strong backwind can add that the same amount.

Second, the bigger your hookbait and the longer your hooklength, the more drag will be created as it flies through the air, reducing distance. You can cast 80 yards no problem with a bomb, but as soon as you put a feeder and a tail on you might struggle to get anywhere near that distance. This is why sea anglers clip their baits to the line when they fish beaches.

Make sure you use the right feeder for the distance as well. There are several ‘bullet’ feeders which I now use for going 80yds-plus. These feature the entire weight beneath the frame in a bullet shape and fly much better than a normal cage or plastic feeder. Their exact weight depends on wind speed and direction. For 80yds I use 30g-40g in windless conditions and 50g-60g in a wind. For 100yds it’s time to go for a 50g, 60g or even 80g feeder.

Most of my fishing now revolves around groundbait feeder work with a 50cm hooklength, the minimum currently allowed in the Feeder World Championships. I know in matches and in practice on stillwaters I’d catch more with a shorter hooklength, so my hookbait is nearer the feeder, but I’m reluctant to do this because I want to get totally used to fishing in this old-school style again.

Today I’m on one such training session at my local Southfield reservoir and I’ve picked a comfortable swim with the wind off my back.

You don’t need to put in much bait in winter, so I’ve cast my baited feeder out five times at the start without a hooklength before adding a hookbait of double red maggot. 

To be honest, I’m not expecting a quick response but hopefully a few bream will turn up at some point during the day.

I can’t quite believe it when my tip wraps around on the very first cast with a 2lb bream. I actually take seven fish up to 3lb in seven casts, with some of the bites coming before I have a chance to sink the line properly, which shows the benefits of a 50cm hooklength in some situations. However, the shoal quickly disappears and I soon have to wait for bites, catching the odd fish in flurries of activity.

In this situation I’d probably catch more on a Method feeder, but there’s something infinitely more enjoyable about catching fish the classic, international way!

TOMMY'S RODS

90YDS-100YDS

Preston 13ft 8ins Dutch Master

We’re talking extreme distance, and at this range I step up to a beefy 13ft 8ins rod with a 6000 reel. Bigger reels have bigger spools and the line comes off easier for casting. One turn equates to to a metre! I use a size 14 hook – you’ll pull out of fish on anything smaller.

40YDS-60YDS

Preston 11ft C Tec

This is a new rod with a little bit more beef than a Super Feeder version, for chucking a bit further. I use a normal 4000 PCR reel. It’s pretty standard gear so you can fish nicely with light lines and size 18 hooks.

70YDS-80YDS

Preston 12ft 8ins Dutch Master Method

You need a rod designed for the job, which these long Dutch-style rods have been.

I prefer the Method version to the standard model because it has more of a through action. Now it’s time to step up to a 5000 reel, and you can’t afford to use anything smaller than a size 16 hook.

HOW TO CAST FURTHER

Are you casting correctly?

I do a lot of coaching when I see anglers casting with the rod straight over their head. Instead, you need to go straight over your right shoulder (assuming you are right-handed) and point the blank at the same far-bank target each time to end up in the same place. Grip the reel with most of your fingers above the fitting, as shown.

Short cast (30yds to 40yds)

First obtain the right grip for all casts. Grip your reel with all your fingers above the reel handle, except for your little finger which grips below. This is an easy flick and doesn’t require you to adopt a different position or bring the rod back

Medium cast (50yds to 60yds)

Now you need to hold the rod a little higher, keeping the same right-hand grip and holding the base of the butt with your left hand (assuming you are right-handed). This creates a pivoting point. You should apply more force to the cast by taking the rod-tip lower behind you, but this is still an easy distance to hit with the correct gear.

Long cast (70yds to 100yds)

With your left arm straight, bring the rod right back behind you, holding the butt at the base. Your rig should almost touch the ground (you can get casting mats so it doesn’t catch in the grass). Pull down with your left hand to generate power. Always stand up to cast a distance like this, and be mindful of the bank behind – if it’s high you may have to walk back and stand on top of it to cast.

How to choose the right hook pattern

Selecting the right choice and size of hook pattern is the most important part of any set-up as getting this wrong can make or break a match, or lose you that fish of a lifetime.

I’ve spent many hours on the bank in practice sessions, trying out different patterns of hook to work out what’s best. Over the years, I’ve probably tested more hooks than any other match angler!

Having two major hook manufacturers, the first being Mustad who no longer produces match hooks and the latest being Drennan, has been a big help and given me access to some of the most recognisable patterns of hook on the market, most of which you’ll have come across before and quite possibly use as your number one pattern.

However, ask yourself this – ‘why did I choose that pattern in the first place?’

Just because Alan Scotthorne uses them doesn’t mean they’re the right pattern for the job in hand and there are several things to assess when making that choice, which applies to heavyweight commercial carp hooks or super fine roach patterns for bloodworm and pinkies in winter, and they are:

1 Firstly, the hook must have a very sharp, but durable point. There’s nothing worse than constantly changing a hook because it loses its sharpness and it will cost you fish – if you have a run of fish slipping the hook, check the sharpness by running the point over your thumbnail. If it glides smoothly, it’s fine. If there’s a juddering, bin it and tie on another one.

2 Strength is very important too, as if the hook is brittle it will break. If the wire is too soft, however, it will straighten out easily. The hook’s tempering, achieved in the manufacturing process, needs to be just right as if it’s been overtempered, the hook will break and the fish will be lost, whereas if it opens slightly under extreme pressure you can still land the fish.

3 Shank length must also be considered, especially when catching small fish quickly or baiting up fast with small baits like bloodworm. A longer shank on small hooks also helps to keep the fish on once it is hooked.

4 The spade also needs some scrutiny. If it is too small, then the whipping can pull over it and the fish will be lost, while if the spade is too big you’re in danger of hooking the fish with the spade as it masks the actual hook on the strike, resulting in just a blob of snot on the spade and no fish!

5 Eyed hooks are used a lot nowadays on commercial fisheries and I prefer the eye to be as small as possible. With hooks regularly tied with knotless knots, however, it must also be big enough to pass the line through twice, even when using small hooks.

6 The finish or colour of the hook must be smooth. All hooks, even bronze patterns, are coated to stop rusting and if that coating is rough, this impedes penetration and hooking baits like maggots become difficult, resulting in burst baits.

ALAN'S ESSENTIAL HOOK PATTERNS

With all that considered, it can still be a bit of a minefield when visiting the tackle shop. To help, here are the five hooks I always carry with me for commercial carp waters throughout the year. They cover around 90 per cent of my fishing, are utterly reliable and, most importantly, tick every box for the job in hand.

KAMASAN B911 BARBLESS

This hook is probably the most popular for commercial carp fishing where big weights are on the cards. I use it mainly for fishing the pole when faced with carp into double figures throughout the summer, a size 16 being used mostly with baits like meat, corn, soft pellets and worms. In fact, if I could only ever use one hook for this style of fishing this would, without doubt, be the one.

The wire size and shape of hook are perfect for landing big fish, with a swept-in point that pulls into the fish, rather than pulling out. A B911 also presents your bait extremely well due to its light weight. A size 16 is still strong enough to handle 0.16mm diameter hooklengths, but it has a reasonable-sized spade to take larger diameter lines.

KAMASAN B911 F1 BARBLESS

THE ‘BOOM’ fish on commercials in recent years has to have been the F1 hybrid, a fish that’s much smaller than normal carp but, more importantly, feeds with a little more finesse at times and so it soon became obvious that hooks finer than run-of-the-mill carp patterns were a must.

B911 F1 hooks are made from 0.33mm gauge wire as opposed to the 0.43mm gauge of a normal B911 in a size 16 and this means even better presentation for baits like 4mm expander pellets and maggots, which work extremely well in the colder months when these fish become the bread and butter targets when carp become less active.

Therefore, hooklengths also need to be scaled down and 0.10mm and 0.11mm diameter being my choice, lines that will still give you the chance of landing the odd rogue carp that you may hook if used in conjunction with light hollow elastics. Using this hook will catch you more fish in the colder months as you’ll get extra bites.

KAMASAN B911 EYED BARBLESS

The same pattern as the B911 Barbless, but eyed for fishing with a knotless knot is spot on for hair-rigging baits. However, too many anglers believe that eyed hooks are only for fishing with bomb or feeder – that’s partly true, but the eyed B911 also makes a good hook for fishing a hair-rig with a bait band with hard pellets, either shallow or on the bottom.

When fishing on the bottom, I tie the band on the hair very close to the bend of the hook as you’ll be lifting into the fish via the strike rather than relying on them hooking themselves as happens when fishing the tip. For shallow work, though, I allow 5mm of space between the hook and the pellet band. That way, the fish will hook themselves and yank the pole tip down without you needing to strike as they find it difficult to reject the hook. Bait pushers or bait spikes tied to the hair are a good way to mount hookbaits, especially when you’re getting missed bites. It’s difficult to lose the hookbait so you’ll notneed to keep shipping back to replace it, thus giving you more actual fishing time.

DRENNAN BARBLESS MARGIN CARP

Fishing the margins in the later stages of a match has produced big weights during the summer and beefed up rigs and hooks need to be able to take the strain as double figures are more common in this part of the peg.

Slightly flattened to give them that extra strength and also reducing tendency to ‘gape’ (open out) on a marginally thinner wire, when fishing big baits like full worm, hook weight is not so important but smaller baits like bunches of maggots, for example, will need something a little more refined.

These hooks are also handy for fishing to snags and rushes where elastics have to be tightened up to pull fish into open water. They’re not the type of peg I like fishing, but they do represent a challenge to catch a weight in these situations and this hook hasn’t let me down yet!

DRENNAN POWER HAIR RIGGERS

These are a recent discovery for me and they still hold a 100 per cent record as I’ve not yet lost a fish using them. They look different to the normal pattern I would use for carp, be that for straight lead fishing or on a Method feeder where hair-rigged baits are generally used and, put simply, they’re brilliant.

When you tie one up, the first thing you’ll notice is that they are super sharp and you tend to keep hooking your fingers all of the time, bad news when you’ve got dozens to tie but good news when you’re relying on the fish hooking themselves. They sit well on the line, the turned out eye giving a maximum gape width and the strength is increased by the flattening of the wire around the bend.

I find that placing a small piece of silicone rubber on the shank helps to keep the hair-rig and bait in line with the shank. I’m sure this leads to more fish hooked; if there’s one thing to try on commercials, it has to be this hook.

How to choose the right river rod

Since I started doing my coaching days on the River Wye, it’s been an interesting exercise to compare notes from each session.

I pride myself on being able to improve anglers’ abilities, so it’s very important for me to analyse the sessions and ensure that everything is covered.

One subject that crops up virtually every time is rod selection. Many anglers seem to struggle and end up with a real mismatch of rods, more often than not from different companies, so this week I’m going to take you through what I think will cover all the situations you are likely to be faced with on moving water.

NO INDUSTRY STANDARD

The biggest problem we have with general coarse/match rods is that there is no industry standard in terms of what the rod is designed to do. Sure, some give recommended line strengths but in truth a lot of these are either under or overstated. 

Quite how this situation came about I’m not quite sure, as we do have industry standards with carp, fly and sea rods. To add to the confusion, we now have countless rods from many different companies carrying the word ‘power’ on them too. This word would seem to indicate that a rod is strong in action, but when you line a few of these power rods up side by side and give them a waggle you will soon realise that in some cases the word was added in order to try and make the rod sell better.

Next time you are in a big tackle shop check them out for yourself and you’ll see what I mean. 

WHAT’S REQUIRED?

The most important question you need to ask yourself when buying a new rod is: ‘What do I want this rod to do?’ The things you need to consider are depth of water, speed of flow and target species. Allied to this you need to make sure that the rod is well matched to the lines and hooks that you are going to need to cope with the first three considerations.

I tend to put all my float and feeder rods into line and hook categories, so if I’m faced with a situation where I need small hooks and light lines I’ll use a light action rod suited to mainlines of 2lb to 3lb and hooklengths from 0.08mm to 0.10mm.

I then progress to rods that are suitable for 4lb to 5lb mainlines and hooklengths from 0.12mm up to 0.18mm. These are my general purpose all-rounders, the ones I tend to use for 75 per cent of my river fishing.

Moving up further, I have rods suited to floatfishing with 6lb to 8lb mainlines and hooklengths from 0.20mm to 0.25mm.

Finally, for the real heavy-duty work and big fish in strong currents, I use rods which are balanced to 10lb and 12lb mainlines and hooklengths up 0.30mm. 

Another consideration is, how much weight do you want this rod to cast? For instance, I use the Daiwa Connoisseur 1113P, a rod which has been around for years in different guises for casting feeders up to 6oz. 

UNDER PRESSURE

If you’re in the market for a new rod but are not sure what to buy you need to take your time and identify exactly what you want. Follow my guide on matching rods to lines and hooks for starters. Then, if you want to take things a step further, go along to your local tackle dealer and ask if you can try some of the rods out with a reel and line. Most modern day carbon fibre rods feel nice and light, but it’s the right action and strength you are looking for and rods can feel a whole lot different when there is line running through the rings and pressure on the blank.  

MATCH THEM UP

I like to keep things as simple as possible, and this starts by matching up rods. It might well be that I’m on a rover that requires a variety of different floats but if I’m essentially fishing for the same species with each one, it’s important to keep the rods and reels matched. That way, each time you pick up a different rig you will know exactly how the rods work and can fish the same way with each in terms of casting and playing fish. You will also get to learn exactly much pressure you can apply without lines breaking. 

BEST BRANDS?

I’m a massive fan of Daiwa rods. The actions of each model are perfect for the sort of fishing that I do and they’re incredibly reliable in that they never seem to break. I can honestly say that I have never had one let me down.

I’m also very impressed with Drennan rods, especially the lighter action models, which are perfect for use with fine line and thin wire hooks.

For value you’d be hard pushed to beat the Shakespeare Mach 3 range.

This extensive collection is well worth checking out if the top-end Daiwa and Drennan rods are beyond your budget.

MY ROD CHOICES

FLOAT RODS

- Light floatfishing with lines from 8oz to 2lb: 14ft Drennan Ultralight

- General floatfishing with lines from 2lb to 3lb: 13ft, 14ft and 13/15ft Daiwa Tournament Pro

- Strong floatfishing with lines from 4lb to 5lb: 13ft Daiwa Connoisseur 13P

- Extra-strong floatfishing with lines from 6lb to 8lb: 14ft Daiwa Connoisseur 14XP

BOLO RODS

- 6m Daiwa Tournament VIP

FEEDER RODS

- General all-round work with glass tips and lines from 3lb to 5lb: 12/13 Daiwa Spectron M2. I use this at either 12ft or 13ft, depending on distance

- Strong feeder fishing with heavy feeders up to 6oz and lines from 6lb to 12lb: 13ft Daiwa Connoisseur 13P

Buying a new fishing rod

If you’re looking to buy a brand new coarse fishing rod, but need a little help to pick the right one, or you’re unsure about all the many styles of rod and their features, read on as here’s a comprehensive guide to purchasing fishing rods.

It’s no wonder anglers can’t decide which fishing rod to choose as there’s so many different types out there available from a multitude of suppliers and manufacturers. It can be an absolute nightmare making sure you’re buying the right one for the job.

Here we go into great detail about the styles of rods available, the types of line guides, length of rod, power, test curve, handle styles and joint fittings.

By the end of this article you’ll be up to speed with all types of rods, how they perform, what to look out for and be safe in the confidence that you’re handing your cash over knowing that you’ve bought the correct rod for the venue, species and distance you intend fishing.

What rods are on the market?

The table below covers all the many different types of fishing rod on the market, plus information on the best venues to use the rods, and the species they are designed to catch. When the table states ‘silverfish’ this means roach, rudd, perch, skimmer bream, ruffe, gudgeon, small chub, ide and bleak – basically all those small species that frequent most of our venues countrywide.

Also, when referring to the strength of rods Heavy equates to Power. And the term Quiver also covers Feeder rods.

ROD TYPE	LENGTH	IDEAL VENUE	SPECIES
Stickfloat	12 - 13ft	River	Silverfish
Stickfloat	14 - 16ft	River	Silverfish, barbel
Stickfloat	18 - 20ft	River	Silverfish, barbel
Waggler Light	12 - 13ft	River, canal, lake	Silverfish
Waggler Medium	12 - 15ft	River, canal, lake	Silverfish, carp, bream, barbel, tench
Waggler Heavy	12 - 15ft	River, lake	Carp, tench, bream, barbel, chub
Waggler Extra Heavy	13 - 15ft	River, lake	Carp, barbel, chub, tench
Margin rods	18 - 20ft	Lake, river	Carp, tench, barbel
Bomb rod	9 - 11ft	Canal, lake, river	Silverfish, small carp
Quiver Light	9 - 11ft	Canal, lake, river	Silverfish, bream, small carp
Quiver Medium	11 - 13ft	Canal, river, lake	Silverfish, carp, bream, tench
Quiver Heavy	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Barbel, carp, tench, bream, chub
Quiver Extra Heavy	12 - 14ft	River, lake	Barbel, carp, tench, bream, chub
Quiver XX Heavy	13 - 14ft	River, lake	Barbel, carp
Avon 1lb tc	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Chub, silverfish, small carp
Avon 1.25lb tc	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Chub, silverfish, barbel, bream, small carp
Avon 1.5lb tc	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Chub, barbel, bream, carp, tench
Avon 1.75lb tc	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Chub, barbel, bream, carp, tench
Avon 2lb tc	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Barbel, chub, carp, tench
Avon 2.25lb tc	11 - 13ft	River, lake	Barbel, chub, carp, tench
Carp 2lb tc	12ft	River, lake, canal	Carp, barbel, tench, chub
Carp 2.25lb tc	12ft	River, lake, canal	Carp, barbel, tench, chub
Carp 2.5lb tc	12ft	River, lake, canal	Carp, barbel, pike, zander
Carp 2.75lb tc	12 - 13ft	Lake	Carp, pike, catfish
Carp 2.75lb tc	12 - 13ft	Lake	Carp, pike, catfish
Carp 3lb tc	12 - 13ft	Lake	Carp, pike, catfish
Carp 3.25lb tc	13ft	Lake	Carp, pike, catfish
Carp 3.5lb tc	13ft	Lake	Carp, pike, catfish
Spodding rod	12 - 13ft	Lake, river	N/A
Marker rod	12 - 13ft	Lake	N/A
Specialist 4lb tc	13ft	Lake, river	Catfish
Specialist 5lb tc	13ft	Lake, river	Catfish
Lure 5-25gr	6 - 8ft	Lake, river, canal	Perch, chub, pike
Lure 15-30gr	7 - 9ft	Lake, river, canal	Perch, chub, pike
Lure 20-40gr	7 - 9ft	Lake, river, canal	Pike
Lure 30-60gr	8 - 10ft	Lake, river	Pike

Line guides and rod rings

These are just as important as the blank of the rod because correct rod ring placement will ensure that the rod bends perfectly. Certain type of guides will produce ultra lightweight rods, while certain line guides will make for a seriously strong rod. Finally, the size and the materials used within the guides (coupled with the rod’s strength) will determine the distance the angler will be able to cast.

The butt ring (the one closest to the handle) has to be the strongest ring as this has to take the most tension because the line travels through this guide and then leaves it at an angle to reach the spool of the reel. You’ll find that most rod butt rings are triple-legged – they have three stems that are whipped to the rod blank.

The tip ring on most rods is also reinforced to take the brunt of any knocks more than anything. Fishing line tends to run straight through the tip ring on quivertip and waggler rods so strength where playing fish or casting isn’t really an issue – the strength is simply there to protect that guide.

All other line guides along the blank will vary in style depending upon the strength and weight of the blank. There’s no point in creating a very lightweight, through action rod designed for lightweight fishing and ring it with super strong guides having triple legs joining then to the blank. That would defeat the rod’s action and performance.

In general terms, the stronger the rod blank, the stronger the line guides need to be to be able to cope with the power of the fish being caught.

You’ll notice that rods have different numbers of line guides, spaced differently. Take a typical carp rod against a typical waggler rod. The carp rod may have six guides, while the waggler rod will have 12 or more. The number of guides reflects the strength of the rod. The more flexible the rod, the more line guides will be needed to ensure that the mainline doesn’t touch the rod blank, and it follows the same curve as the rod when it is bent.

You will also notice that some line guides are longer than others. Waggler rods and carp/specialist rods tend to have long line guides while quivertip rods tend to have quite short line guides.

Longer guides help keep the line well away from the rod blank when casting and this prevents the line slapping against the rod blank which could potentially slow it down due to the resistance caused by the mainline contacting the blank.

What is the difference between the different line guide centres?

Fuji ALCONITE Guides have a bright black polished centre, made from reinforced Aluminum Oxide with a hardness of 1300 to 1500 vickers. This centre is used in low rider rolled edge frames.

Fuji ALCONITE Guides have a bright black polished centre, made from reinforced Aluminum Oxide with a hardness of 1300 to 1500. This centre is used in low rider rolled edge frames.

Fuji HARD Guides and Tips. The Hard Centre is Dark Brown in Colour, made from Aluminum Oxide and has a hardness of 1200 to 1400 Vickers.

Fuji Hard Ring high grade Aluminum Oxide Centre, is a Blue Grey colour and has hardness of 1300 to 1400 Vickers. All Guides are mounted in Stainless Steel Frames with black finish.

Fuji Sic Guides and tip rings. The Sic centre is a Graphite, is black in colour and has a hardness of 2200 to 2400 vickers.

Fuji Titanium rod guides with Sic centre are the lightest guides available on the market. You will find these guides on the higher end, top quality waggler rods.

Why doesn’t my rod joint fit correctly?

There are two different types of joint between rod section. The basic joint is a simple put-over joint where the next section along the rod simply slides over the last. They are easy to produce, they fit well and are the cheaper option when rod-building.

The more advanced joint is the spigot. This is an additional length of thinner diameter carbon tubing protruding from the rod joint. The next section slides over the spigot to form a snug and tight fit.

Spigot joints help keep the rod’s weight down as the blanks can be thinner throughout the length.

But many newcomers to fishing are put off by spigot joints. Why? Because they put the rod together and see that there’s a gap between the two sections. That’s how they should be because every time you slide the rod together a microscopic amount of carbon is ground off the spigot joint, so there has to be some ‘give’ in the join to accommodate the reduction in carbon on the spigot. Eventually, after many years of use, the rod sections will touch as the spigot wears down, and that’s when the join between the section becomes weak and the rod may twist, slip and even fall apart on the cast.

Cork, Duplon and abbreviated handles

There are three main types of rod handle. There’s the traditional cork that gives the rod a great look and provides excellent grip plus warmth. Then there’s Duplon, which is black or dark grey foam – a cheaper and easy-to-produce alternative to cork. Finally there’s abbreviated handles. These are common on carp rods.

Some rods have a mix of cork and Duplon. This won’t affect the rod’s performance at all, but it will help keep the rod’s cost down though as the Duplon section is cheaper to place upon the rod butt compared to cork.

If the truth be told, abbreviated handles are nothing more than a fashionable addition to carp rods. They make the rod look nice, and they do provide grip in the right places, but that’s all really.

Rod actions and test curves

In the main there are three different types of rod action: Tip action (sometimes called Fast Action, or FA), tip-to-middle action and through action.

You can clearly see the different action styles in the diagram, showing how each rod bends when placed under pressure.

Fast action rods are the best for picking line up quickly on the strike because the middle and the butt sections remain fairly straight while the tip section will bend quickly to absorb the shock of setting the hook into a fish. They are also the best for casting as the main section of rod offers tremendous power, while the ‘whippy’ tip will help flick the rig out.

Most rods on the market have tip-to-middle actions, meaning that the rod will bend easily from the tip to the middle section of the rod to absorb any lunges of hooked fish, then when this area of the rod reaches full compression the middle to butt section will begin to release its power and start to bend.

Through action rods bend from the tip right through to the butt. There aren’t that many through action rods available nowadays. Avon rods tend to have through actions though, in keeping with their traditional roots. These actions don’t lend themselves to long distance casts, but then again most Avon rods are intended for use on rivers anyway, where short casts are the norm.

You may well have heard the phrase ‘progressive action’. This means that the power comes into the rod progressively as the rod bends from the tip. A true progressive blank will increase the power equally as the tip is pulled round. Some even bend in the handle, when placed under extreme pressure.

The top-most rod has a tip action (or fast action) which means that the middle and butt sections remain absolutely rigid while the tip bends through the 90 degree curve.

The rod in the middle has a tip-to-middle action – the butt section remains rigid while the other two sections bend through 90 degrees as the weight pulls down on the rod.

The bottom-most rod has a through action – like most Avon rods. It bends right through the blank as the weight pulls down on the tip.

Reel seats and designs

Years ago we were stuck with one design of reel seat – simple brass or in later years graphite rings that were pushed over the foot of the reel. These, quite frankly, were awful things that made the reel slip, slide and sometimes fall off completely.

Thankfully we now have far more advanced screw-fit reel seats that grip the reel perfectly, no matter what type of reel we use.

Some screw-lock reel seats on cheaper rods have a visible screw design. When the reel is set upon the rod, your hand will come into contact with the screw and that can be quite uncomfortable.

On more expensive rods the screw is positioned above the reel and is hidden by a sleeve. These offer a lot more comfort as the sleeve twists over the screw to hide it, plus this design gives it additional thickness and therefore a much better feel.

Handle length and casting

Rods designed for chucking rigs a long way tend to have longer handles. Take beachcasters as an example – their handles are extremely long allowing the angler to spread the hands apart for maximum leverage and maximum punching power.

Carp, catfish, pike and powerful quivertip rods all tend to have long handles to give you the extra leverage and be able to launch deadbaits, PVA bags, heavy leads and Method feeders great distances.

Waggler and stick float rods tend to have shorter handles for two reasons. Firstly there’s no need to cast 100s of yards as you won’t be able to find a float that casts that distance, and if you made one yourself you wouldn’t be able to see it! Also, waggler rods are often held, so the shorter the handle, the less weight and the more comfortable the rod will be while it’s being held.

Lure rods have the shortest handles (apart from fly rods). Again these are held for long durations, so weight needs to be cut down, and they are used for short casts of around 40 yards maximum. Finally these rods need to be manoeuvrable across the front of the body when working the lure, playing or landing fish, so short handles perform much better. Short handles are also handy when boat fishing too, as they won’t get in the way in often cramped circumstances.

Test curves of specimen rods

A test curve indicates the rod’s power. It is the weight that the rod can take before it is pulled through a 90 degree angle.

This gives the potential buyer and indication of the rod’s strength and casting ability, which is all-important when you may be casting weighty PVA bags full of bait, extremely heavy leads or when you need to cast great distances.

Most carp rods have test curves of between 2.25lb and 3.5lb. Most specialist Avon rods have test curves of between 1.25lb and 2lb. And predator rods to catch pike and catfish will have test curves of between 2.75lb and 5lb – they are the most powerful.

But when you find out the rod’s test curve, you’ll also need to know the rod’s action as a 2.5lb test curve tip action will offer more casting and playing power than a 2.5lb test curve through action rod simply because there will still be plenty of power left in reserve in the middle and butt sections of the rod which will come into play after the tip of the rod has bent fully.

Extra sections

A great deal of rods available nowadays have additional sections that can be used to increase the rod’s length. These multi-length rods are a real bonus for a few reasons…

Firstly they provide extra casting power and therefore greater distance due to the increased leverage that extra section provides.

You’ll be able to control larger fish at the net better with a slightly longer rod. The extra reach will certainly help pull fish away from marginal snags and weed – paramount when fishing for tench, chub, barbel and carp.

You’ll be able to remove the extra section and fish with a shorter rod when you are faced with a tight, overgrown swim.

You could buy one rod for a multitude of purposes, for example a variable length waggler rod having a fast tip action would be great when used at its normal length for stillwater and commercial fishery work, but add the extra section and you’ll have a brilliant stick float rod that has enough reach to provide excellent float and line control.

There are many multi-length feeder rods on the market too, enabling you to use the rod short for tight swims, for short-to-medium range work or for winter use when you won’t need so much power, but add the extra section and you’ll be able to cast far further, control much more lively fish and increase your chances of bagging a proper haul!

Which quivertip will I need?

Many newcomers to legering and feeder fishing seem to think that they need to use really powerful quivertips to catch big fish. That’s nonsense. It’s the middle and butt sections of the rod itself that will control the fight not the quivertip.

A quivertip serves one purpose and one purpose only – to provide bite indication. It has absolutely no bearing on the strength of the rod – you could use a 1oz tip for light bomb fishing through to heavyweight Method feeder work if the conditions are right.

Rods with a selection of push-in quivertips are by far the most versatile as you can pick and choose the perfect quivertip to suit the conditions that you are fishing.

Take stillwater feeder fishing as an example. On flat calm windless days you’ll be able to use half ounce quivertips that will bend even if a fish looks at your bait. But on windswept days when the waves are lashing the margins and the water is suffering with a strong undertow you will need to step up in quivertip strength to something like a 2oz tip to ensure it remains still in the dire conditions. You’ll still be able to spot bites using a tip as strong as that, so there’s no need to worry.

Here’s a brief guide to quivertip strengths and their uses…

QUIVERTIP STRENGTH	VENUE	CONDITIONS
0.5oz	Canal, stillwater	Flat calm
1oz	Canal, stillwater, drain	Calm, little tow/flow
1.5oz	Canal, stillwater, drain, river	Calm, little tow/flow
2oz	Stillwater, river	Breezy, slow flow
3oz	Stillwater, river	Windy, substantial flow
4oz	River	Strong flow, windy
5oz	River	Powerful flow, strong wind
6oz	River	Flood conditions, gale

Guide to carp leads

Here is a simple guide to carp leads...

1) The Big Grippa

The Big Grippa is a unique lead, available in sizes up to 10oz, and is best suited to anywhere you need more grip, like rivers, on the sides of bars, along marginal slopes, boating out or at extreme range. The small raised nodules grip the lake or river bed. Like the other flat shapes, these leads are also ideal for sloping island margins or bars.

Grippas have become massively popular on the continent, where carping in wide, fastflowing rivers is the norm and where you have to boat out baits massive distances.

Available in 1.5oz to 6oz

2) The Flat Pear

Hard bottoms are the place for the flat pears. The short, condensed shape of this lead, married with the two flat sides, makes it the perfect lead for bolt rigs at short to medium range. By its very nature the flat pear lead lends itself to being fished on marginal slopes, the sides or backs of gravel bars and in rivers. It’s effective at short to medium range because it holds so well on the lake bed and offers so much resistance to a moving carp, endowing it with superior bolt rig effectiveness.

This type of lead is best used inside solid PVA bags with a short hooklength. It is unobtrusive if you are stalking the margins in clear water.

Available in 1oz to 5oz.

3) The Square Pear

Korda’s new Square Pear shape has been designed as the ultimate bolt rig lead. The shape is greatly condensed, so when a carp tightens the hooklink against the lead it will feel the weight straight away.

It’s an excellent choice for short to medium-range work on gravel or firm-bottomed venues, especially when fishing to island margins or on to features where the bottom may be sloping.

Korda are now on to the second generation of Square Pear – the original lead was too square, and sometimes would not roll over and lie on its side. Instead it sat on its end, with the swivel at the top of the lead sticking bolt upright off the lake bed – not ideal at all!

Available from 1oz to 5oz.

4) The Pear Lead

The classic Pear lead casts a very long way, almost as far as the Distance Casting type, and is less affected by cross winds because the shape is very condensed. This means the Pear lead is suited to most carp fishing situations when fishing up to the very limit of your casting ability.

The condensed shape concentrates the leger’s weight so that a carp pricking itself against it feels the full weight of the lead quicker than with a Distance shape. Tangles are reduced by its tapered profile.

The rounded shape means that the pear lead will still cast a long way. Pears can plug deeply into soft bottoms, so I avoid using them in silt and save them for medium to long-range fishing on gravel-bottomed lakes.

Available in 1oz to 4oz.

5) Distance Lead

This lead is designed purely for casting long distances. The nose-heavy design makes it very stable and keeps the lead condensed, making for good hooking efficiency.

The round nose ensures it flies straight, even in big crosswinds, which is key when you are striving for accuracy. The heavy nose means the weight is concentrated and improves the hooking properties by making sure the carp encounters the full weight of the lead quickly when it picks up the bait.

Available in 1.5oz to 5oz sizes.

6) The Tournament Casting Lead

This is the lead to have on when you have to go for maximum distance, because of its aerodynamic torpedo shape and because the bulk of the weight is slightly forward to help stabilise the leger in flight.

On a lot of silty meres lead penetrates deeply, but Tournament Casting leads are quite easy to pull out of the silt. I don’t think they bury in as deeply as the more dumpy designs.

Available from 1.5oz to 5oz.

7) Riser Tri-lobe Lead

A very under-used, versatile lead that rises on retrieval, avoiding snags and weeds on the way in. You can overcast, retrieve, then steadily let the rig drop on the fish without making a noise. This lead rests gently on deep silt, soft weed and poor ground. It casts relatively poorly, but is good for awkward situations.

How to make wire traces

Whenever you are fishing for pike or zander you simply must use a wire trace, and here we show you how to make your own wire traces for lure fishing and bait fishing in easy to follow steps...

Using a wire trace when either lure or bait fishing shows that you care about the fish you are trying to catch. If you simply tied your treble hooks or lure directly on to your monofilament mainline, you are taking a big risk as both pike and zander have such sharp teeth they will cut straight through it. And what will happen next?

The fish won’t be able to shed the hooks, the fish will suffer as a result and possibly even die as it may not be able to continue feeding due to the obstruction in its mouth or throat. So please, always use a wire trace when tackling those toothed predators.

You can buy ready-tied traces for lure fishing and snap tackle for bait fishing – and reliable they are too – but there’s nothing like catching a fish on a trace you have made yourself, plus DIY trace making is the cheaper option in the long term. Here’s how to make both, using a variety of methods, plus detailed info on common mistakes…

Tying a wire trace for lure fishing

This method involves twisting the wire around itself to lock the swivels directly onto the trace wire.

1. You will need 18 inches of wire, a swivel, a snap link swivel, wire cutters and a pair of forceps.

2. Bend an inch of wire and pass the formed loop through the eye of your swivel.

3. Now pass the wire loop back over the swivel and pull it tight. Forceps will help you tighten the loop.

4. Clamp your forceps onto the tag end of wire and spin it around the main length of wire at least six times.

5. Trim off the tag end as close as you can to the whippings using sharp, reliable wire cutters.

6. Now lock a snap link swivel to the other end of wire using steps 2 to 5 to complete the trace.

Tying a wire trace for live and dead bait fishing

 You don't have to use crimps to create a wire trace for your dead or live baits - you could use the twisted wire technique shown above to lock your swivel and bottom-most treble onto your wire.

1. You will need some wire, two treble hooks, a swivel, some crimps, crimping pliers and sharp wire cutters.

2. Cut off 18 inches of wire, thread on a crimp, pass the wire through a treble hook and thread it back, well inside the crimp.

3. Position the crimp around 5mm from the hook and squeeze it tightly using the crimping pliers.

4. The crimp should be squeezed three times, making sure each of the depressions line up like this.

5. Thread on your second hook and position it 2 to 3 inches from the first. This gap depends upon the size of bait to be used.

6. Hold the second treble in place and carefully wrap the wire around the base of the hook like this.

7. Now tightly wrap the wire around the hook’s shank three times and then thread it back through the eye.

8. Complete the snap tackle by crimping a strong swivel on to the other end of the wire.

Top tips for trace making

Cut the wire cleanly

It’s worth investing in sharp wire cutters as the end of the wire you are working with must be cut cleanly. A frayed section of wire can damage your main line and also prove extremely difficult to tie or crimp.

When to replace your trace

If the wire of your trace becomes twisted or kinked cut it off and discard it at home - not on the bank. Tie on another fresh one. If you do make your own traces and snap tackle remember to cut off the swivels and hooks. If they are still in good condition you will be able to use them again.

Incorrect crimping

The crimped trace pictured is a disaster waiting to happen! Firstly the crimp is too close to the hook therefore the hook has no freedom of movement. The wire tag end protrudes from the crimp and this could cause tangles or it may cut your main line. The crimp has been squeezed only twice – it should be crimped three times. And finally the crimp has been squeezed too close to the

edge and too hard (the wire can be seen through it). If any of these faults occur when you crimp your traces throw it away and do it again or you’re asking for trouble!

How far apart should the hooks be?

The distance between the treble hooks depends upon the bait you are fishing. The larger the bait the further apart the hooks need to be. Take a half mackerel for example. This bait may be 6in or 7in long and ideally the second treble should be positioned midway along the bait, therefore the trebles should be positioned about three inches apart. When fishing small baits like sprats or eel sections, the trebles can be 2in apart.

How to choose the right float

There's something special about floats and all anglers love to collect them but, far from being mere eye candy, each float has been carefully designed for a specific use.

Can you identify the different designs we’ve pictured here? If not, read on and learn the secrets of the running line.

1 Drennan Crystal Wagglers

WAGGLERS are attached bottom end only. Named because the earliest versions ‘waggled’ as they flew through the air. Used on lakes or rivers on a ‘running line’ ie, a rod and reel, as opposed to a pole.

Crystals are made of see-through hollow plastic designed for both silverfish and carp and in loaded and unloaded versions. ‘Loaded’ means the floats have a metal weight incorporated in the base that provides the casting weight in place of split shot, and which cocks the float.

Normally, loaded floats are manufactured so that the addition of a couple of ‘locking shot’ and a couple of micro shot down the line will cock them perfectly. The shotting capacity is printed on the float stem. “3.0g loaded plus 1BB” means the float has a 3g (the equivalent of 5AAA split shot) loading, plus 1BB shot extra locking capacity.

Loaded floats are far more streamlined than unloaded which require strings of split shot to cock them properly, so they cast further and are far less prone to tangling.

2 Straight and Insert Wagglers

MOST wagglers fall into two categories, ‘Straight’ or ‘Insert’. Straight mean that the float body is the same diameter all the way up. Insert have a separate, finer, sight tip inserted.

Straight wagglers should be used when there’s a surface tow on the water and you want to fish over-depth. The larger diameter sight tip prevents the float top being pulled under.

Insert wagglers should be used when conditions are calm and you want an ultra-fine presentation. The slim diameter inserts allow you to spot the shyest of bites. They’re made of many different materials, including Middy C-Throu design.

3 Peacock Wagglers

THESE were arguably the first and finest wagglers. Made from long, straight lengths of buoyant peacock quill with the feathers stripped off. Various lengths of quill, from six to 18 inches long had a simple metal eye whipped to the bottom end and were painted and varnished to waterproof them. A brightly painted top allowed it to be seen at long range.

Peacocks come in loaded, unloaded, straight, bodied and insert designs or with dart-type flights for accurate long-range casting. They’re also made from Sarcandas reed.

4 Bodied Wagglers, Giant Wagglers and Missiles

THESE are straight wagglers with a streamlined buoyant balsa body loaded with up to 30g of lead and built to cast up to 70 yards.

Many missiles have a series of flat, circular lead weights that fit together on the base so you can adjust the amount of sight tip sticking above the water.

5 Puddle Chuckers

MADE by Drennan, eight different types of float in 24 different sizes make up the dumpylooking Puddle Chucker family. The clever, seethrough floats are made out of clear plastic and intended for chucking up to shallow island features on the commercial carp pools - hence the name ‘Puddle Chuckers’. Like the Drennan Crystals the see-through design is intended to reduce the risk of spooking educated match carp. The shape means they don’t dive too far under water on the cast, yet they still retain a large enough shotting capacity to be cast to long range. The floats come in loaded or unloaded versions with normal or insert tips.

6 Stick Floats

THESE tapered floats are attached ‘top and bottom’ and are designed for trotting a bait on running water. They come in ‘dome’ top or ‘shouldered’ versions so they can be held back in the current.

7 Avons

ANOTHER running water ‘top and bottom’ float with a bulbous body to increase the shotting capacity and keep them stable in fast, shallow water.

8 Chubbers

MADE for shallow, pacy rivers where you need to get a big bulk of shot down quickly in the fast flow. These large, balsa or polystyrene bodied floats are capable of carrying up to 8 SSG shot.

9 Splashers/Baggin’

Waggler floats DESIGNED for the commercial carp pools ‘Splasher’ floats are made to make a big splash when they enter the water, to attract the attention of cruising carp who associate the noise with food.

Baggin’ wagglers are huge balsa bodied floats with a built-in frame feeder attached. Mould a ball of groundbait round the feeder and fish a hookbait shallow below it. Fish rise up to eat the falling groundbait and grab the suspended hookbait.

10 Windbeaters

DESIGNED to combat surface tow caused by wind, these floats have a bulbous base, ultra-fine glass fibre of carbon stem and big, highly visible sight top.

11 Darts

THESE fast-taper floats are perfect for delicate biting silverfish on canals, drains and stillwaters as they can be dotted right down to spot the tiniest of bit

Guide to stick floats

Catching fish on a stick float is one of the most thrilling forms of river fishing, with roach, dace, chub and barbel the main target species.

There are numerous types of stick float on the market made from different materials and with different-shaped sight tips.

However, all are designed to be attached ‘top and bottom’ with silicone rubber and are ‘trotted’ through the swim in the current. Unlike wagglers, stick floats don’t have a bottom eye.

The art of stick float fishing is to run the float down the swim at a natural pace to make the hookbait mimic a free offering and fool the fish into grabbing it.

Shotting patterns vary, depending on the depth of the swim and pace of the current but, generally, a ‘shirt button’ style will suffice. This means the shot are simply strung out at regular intervals between the bottom of the float and the hook - like the buttons on a shirt.

ANATOMY OF A STICK FLOAT...

BODY: This is the thickest part of the float which always tapers away from top to bottom, giving the float a streamlined profile. Buoyant balsa has always been the main choice of body material, though cork and modern, man-made polystyrene is also used.

STEM: The bottom of the float is made from a variety of sturdy materials to add strength (see pic below left), with the most popular being aluminium (1), lignum - a heavy tropical wood (2), cane (3) or nylon/plastic.

Cane stems are perfect for delicate presentation when ‘on the drop’ fishing. Aluminium stems are for fast, turbulent water, heavy lignum wood adds casting weight to the float and nylon/plastic is a cheap all round stem choice.

SHOULDER: Shouldered Top stick floats have a bullet-shaped sight tip and a pronounced ‘shoulder’ below it - in profile it’s like a human’s head and shoulder. This shoulder enables the float to be held back in the current without it riding up in the water. ‘Holding back’ simply means making the float travel through the swim at a slower pace than the current would take it.

SIGHT TOP: This is the part of the float that protrudes above the water. Dome-shaped tops are extra buoyant and highly visible when trotted long distances. Shouldered tops are for holding back (see above) and rounded or tapered sight tips are for spotting delicate bites from shy-biting species like roach and dace.

AVONS/CHUBBERS: Although not technically stick floats, these short, stubby, highly buoyant designs are fished the same way. Made of balsa or hollow plastic they are perfect for shallow, pacey rivers because they can carry a lot of big split shot to keep the hookbait down, yet don’t get dragged under the water so much when the bait trips bottom.

Guide to quivertips

If choosing a quivertip leaves you trembling in confusion, do not fear, our guide will remove the mystery and solve all your problems…

Watching the quivertip on your leger rod twang round is certain to get your heart racing.

However, selecting the correct quivertip for a particular fishing situation can mean the difference between a red letter day and a blank.

Here’s a list of the factors that affect quivertip choice:

>> CASTING WEIGHT

The heavier the feeder/leger weight, the stronger the tip should be. If you use too light a tip it will either not cast the weight properly or, worse still, actually break on the cast!

>> FLOW OR UNDERTOW

If the tip is dragged right round, by the flow on a river or undertow on a stillwater, you will not be able to see the bites. You should step up the strength of the tip to compensate.

>> SIZE OF FISH

If you’re targeting shy biting silverfish use a very light tip. For larger species like carp, tench and barbel, you should use a heavier tip. The bites from these species aren’t shy and they will often try to pull the rod in.

QUIVERTIPS EXPLAINED

>> STRENGTH

All quivertips have a test curve or strength rating. A test curve is the amount of weight it takes to bend the tip to 90 degrees. Glass tips tend to be 2oz or less, whereas carbon tips can be a strong as 6oz.

>> TIP MATERIAL

Quivertips are made from two types of material, carbon or glass fibre.

CARBON tips are stiffer and generally have a higher strength rating (2oz to 6oz).

GLASS tips have a soft, progressive action and are produced in lower test curves (0.5oz to 2.5oz).

The two materials are identified by the colour of the tips base. Carbon tips have a dark base; glass tips have a clear or white base.

>> TIP EYE

The size of the tip’s end eye can be a giveaway sign to the strength of the tip. Generally, the larger the eye the heavier the tip, as it is designed to be used for distance casting and thicker lines.

WHAT TIP SIZE TO USE AND WHEN...

TIP RATING	WHEN TO USE	SPECIES
0.5oz - 1oz	Stillwaters	Silverfish
1.5oz - 2oz	Stillwaters and slow-moving rivers	Small carp, tench bream and silverfish
2.5oz - 3oz	Stillwaters and moderately flowing rivers	Carp, tench and chub
4oz - plus	Distance fishing, the Method feeder and fast-flowing rivers	Double-figure carp and barbel

How to cast

The ability to cast close to a fish-holding feature, or consistently drop a feeder on a sixpence, often means the difference between bagging or blanking.

Here’s what to do, and what not to do, if you want to become a better caster...

1

DO... face the target with shoulders square and line the rod up above your head with the blank running above the centre of your head with the butt-end pointing directly at the intended target. Keep your elbows tight to your body.

DO NOT... try to cast across one shoulder with the butt end pointing away from the target. Do not open your elbows out

2

DO... make sure that the float or feeder you’re casting hangs about 76cm (30-inches) below the rod tip and is as still as possible, not swinging like a pendulum.

DO NOT... have the float or feeder wound close to the rod tip, or hanging too far down towards the ground.

3

DO... pick a fixed far-bank marker like a tree, bush or telegraph pole and always cast directly at it and allow for any strong crosswind.

DO NOT... aim for a spot in open water that you cannot positively identify at any time of the day as the sun and clouds travel across the sky.

4

DO... make sure the spool on your reel is correctly filled to almost level with the lip, and you can also comfortably hold the line with your index finger during casting without stretching.

DO NOT... underfill the reel as line will not flow freely, so reducing the length of the cast. Do not overfill the reel as coils of line will fall off the spool, causing tangles.

5

DO... use the reel’s line clip to help you cast an identical distance every time. If casting to a feature like an aerator, make an initial cast but deliberately drop the float or feeder a few metres short of the target. Then, pull another metre of line off the spool and ‘clip up’ before recasting. Repeat the process until the float or feeder lands on target but cannot be overcast because the clip will not allow any more line off the spool.

DO NOT... try to land the float or feeder tight up against a feature with the first cast. If you overshoot, you’ll tangle and probably have to pull for a break.

6

DO... make sure that the guides on your rod are properly aligned.

DO NOT... try to cast when the rod rings are twisted.

Guide to pike floats

There are loads of pike floats on the market, each one designed to do a specific task. Follow our guide to find out more...

1. STUBBY INLINE FLOATS

Stubby inlines are used for suspending larger lives or deadbaits, like half mackerel and big sardines. They can also be used for close-in deadbait work.

2. DEADBAIT PENCILS AND WAGGLERS

These sensitive floats are available in loaded (requiring no shot) and unloaded versions. These floats work best up to a distance of 40yards. Designed for use with deadbaits, they are fished bottom only, with the bait ideally set overdepth.

3. HI-VISIBILITY DART

A dumpy design with a dart flight that provides excellent visibility, especially in rough/choppy water. It’s well suited to fishing at long range. Attached at its base, this float provides sensitive bite indication when fishing static deadbaits.

4. SUNKEN FLOATS

These unusual floats are made to present a fish bait under the surface of the water. They work well on either slow-flowing rivers or stillwaters and are primarily used for popping up deadbaits in the current or for suspending livebaits off the bottom.

5. BALL BOB FLOATS

This classic is a truly universal pike float. Ideal for using on still or running water, ball floats are excellent for suspending live or deadbaits, free-roving livebait rigs or laying deadbaits on the bottom. The disadvantage is their shape, meaning they are not as sensitive as some slimmer types of float and they don’t cast well.

6. SLIMLINE INLINE FLOATS

Slimline inline floats are primarily designed for trotting either live or deadbaits in running water. The mainline passes through the centre of the float and is locked at depth using either rubber float stops or a sliding stop knot.

How to choose the correct pole float

Mesmerising - that’s the only word that can describe the vast array of different shaped, coloured and sized pole floats lining fishing tackle shop shelves.

With so many different designs to choose from it is no surprise that lots of pole anglers – inexperienced and experienced alike – choose the wrong float for the venue and weather conditions they are faced by.

In this simple guide to what’s what in the world of pole floats we’ll banish the mistakes and ensure you always choose the right float…

BODY SHAPE

The main part of the float is called the body and there are dozens of different shaped designs on the market – each one is purposely made to perform a different task in different types of fi shery. To make it easier for you to identify the main ‘families’ of pole floats and understand what job each does we have selected and explained the six main shapes…

1. Dibber

A short float that’s ideal when presenting a bait in shallow water tight to the near or far bank of a commercial lake or canal. Do not use in a river. The fat tip makes the dibber highly visible so they are popular with anglers struggling to see a fine-tipped float. Best fished slightly overdepth with a split shot touching the bottom to anchor the float. Not great in windy conditions as the short stem doesn’t stabilise the float.

2. Body-Up

The fat body and distinct shoulders make this a very buoyant float that is suitable for fishing rivers, it ‘rides’ the current well and allows the angler to hold back the float against the flow to slow down the speed the hookbait goes through the swim.

Make sure the bulk of the weight added to the rig is bunched in the last third of the line to ‘bomb’ the hookbait to the bottom of the river and stop it getting lifted away by the river’s flow.

3. Round

A popular and versatile float. In the smaller sizes (up to 1gram) it is best used in stillwaters, especially if there is a wind blowing.

The wide, buoyant body and the long stem helps keep the float stable in the water in rough conditions. In the larger sizes (1.5 gram and above) this float can also be used in slow flowing rivers.

4. Pear

An elongated pear-shaped body gives this float some stability in canals and commercial fisheries. The slender shape helps make this a responsive float that efficiently registers bites from shy-biting species like roach, skimmer bream and crucians.

Good for use with maggots, casters and pinkie hookbaits especially at this time of year when bites become more subtle.

5. Body-Down

A more pronounced shape than the pear (see above) with a fatter body for greater buoyancy and stability in windy conditions. Best used in swims at least six feet deep and the bulk of the shotting should be placed in the bottom third of the rig.

6. Shallow

A short, small bodied float with a fat cane tip for buoyancy and visibility. Made for presenting hookbaits in the mid-to-upper layers of commercial lakes.

From left to right: Dibber, body-up, round, pear, body-down and shallow.

STEMS

The thin stem poking out of the base of the float’s body is called the stem. The weight and buoyancy of the stem effects the behaviour of the float and dictates when they should be used…

1. Cane

Similar to nylon - very light and strong. Use for shallow rigs but not in strong winds when the float will get blown around a lot.

2. Wire

Great when fishing in windy conditions. A long, wire stem helps keep the float stable while it also helps ‘cock’ the float quickly in the water and reduces the amount of shot needed.

3. Carbon

Similar properties to wire stems but they are lighter, this can help if you want to fish a very sensitive rig.

4. Nylon

Very light and strong. Best for ‘up-in-the-water’ rigs when you want the bait to sink very slowly.

From left to right: Cane, wire, carbon and nylon.

BRISTLES

The tip inserted into a pole float is called the bristle. The material each bristle is made from performs a different task, as this guide explains…

1. Carbon

Very sensitive because they sink, only the buoyant body keeps the tip above the water. Brittle and easily broken. Great when using small baits for shy-biting species but floats with a carbon tip are difficult to shot up, you must be precise. A thin smear of Vaseline rubbed on the tip can make it slightly more buoyant.

2. Cane

Buoyant, and strong. They are ideal for using with heavier baits, such as meat and corn, as the buoyancy helps to hold up the bait.

The strength is useful when fishing tight to lilies, weed or rushes for big carp, if the float is dragged through the vegetation the tip won’t get broken. Thicker tip allows for greater visibility.

3. Nylon

More durable than a carbon stem, slightly buoyant and therefore easier to shot up and use. Available in a variety of thicknesses, the fatter the nylon bristle the more buoyant they are.

From top to bottom: Carbon, Cane and Nylon.

Guide to PVA

It doesn't matter whether the carp are feeding well, or just picking at baits, the magical PVA tape, PVA string, PVA stocking and PVA bags are just the thing to help you put a few more big carp on the bank.

What is PVA?

PVA stands for Poly Vinyl Alcohol. It’s a water-soluble substance that can be made into solid sheets, tape, string or woven to create a mesh-type stocking. When cast into the swim, the PVA product will start to dissolve and leave a neat pile of free bait around your hook. This is something that patrolling carp find hard to resist and it’s a method that has caught many large specimens. Lee Jackson, for example, banked his former British record carp of over 60lb when using a PVA bag presentation.

Types of PVA

There are several types of PVA on the market. Each one has a distinct use...

STRING

This is a thin cord made from multiple thin strands of PVA. It’s mostly used to create ‘stringers’. This is the name given to a number of baits threaded on to a string, which is then attached to your hook. The problem with PVA string is that it shrinks in the water before dissolving. This can cause the baits to become fused together in a lump, or worse, the string won’t melt at all.

TAPE

Similar to string, except it has a flat, wide profile. Tape can also be used to form stringers or for tying off the tops of solid PVA bags. Tape also has several advantages over PVA string. It doesn’t shrink in water. Due to its thicker profile, the tape holds strung baits better, great for long-range casting. Also, this thicker profile opens a bigger hole in the free baits, allowing more scent to be released.

SOLID BAGS

Flat, solid bags that can be filled with all manner of freebies, regardless of the size of bait used. They can also be filled with just liquid, such as flavours, slimes or dips. This is a great edge in winter when you are fishing single hookbaits. The liquid puts out a strong level of attraction into the swim, but the only food item is your hookbait. Their disadvantages are that they are slow to form and tie. Always pierce solid PVA bags with a baiting needle, as this will help the trapped air escape, preventing it from floating.

MESH OR NETWORK BAGS

Made from woven PVA thread, this stocking material – which Korda named Funnel Web – has revolutionised carp fishing. Having an open weave, it doesn’t suffer from trapped air. This product comes in long lengths – five or 20 metres – allowing bags of any size to be made up. The other advantage of network bags is that they are much quicker to make than their solid counterparts.

RIG FOAM

These buoyant nuggets are either hooked on to or folded over the hook before casting. Once in the water, they hold the hook off the bottom until the nugget dissolves. The hook will then gently settle on to the bottom of the lake. Rig foam is indispensable when fishing over silt or weed. When the rig is cast in, the lead will either sink into the silt or dive into the weed and the rig foam will help stop your hook from being masked.

PVA foam tip

PVA rig foam doesn’t stay on the hook very well when making hard casts. Places three or four nuggets into some Boilie Funnel Web. Then using a Korda Kompressor stick, compress the nuggets as hard as he can. Then tie the bag off to make a small PVA bag and then attach this to your hook prior to casting. This will stay on the hook after even the hardest cast.

PVA rig foam can be attached like this, but it won’t withstand really hard casts.

Instead, create golfball-sized bags containing three PVA nuggets - this will withstand a hard cast much better.

PVA tip

To give a different presentation, use chopped boilies in your sticks as well as a groundbait mixture. This is called a 50/50 stick. The boilie chop gives the stick a different texture and attraction than pure groundbait.

To make a half-and-half, take a number of hook bait boilies and chop them using a vegetable chopper. A small amount of chopped boilies are placed in the tube, followed by a small amount of groundbait. The mixture is fully compressed and tied off. With a stringer needle, the hooklink is pulled through the sausage. It is important that the groundbait end of the sausage is facing the hook.

This ensures that the hook point is not impeded by being pulled into a piece of very hard chopped boilie.

Top 10 PVA tips

1 Always make bags in a dry environment.

2 Always carry a towel with you so you can dry your hands.

3 Keep your pre-made bags in a watertight container.

4 Make a few bags up before fishing.

5 Don’t make up sticks too early, as the oil will affect the PVA’s melt time.

6 Avoid string when using stringers as it shrinks in water. It’s better to use PVA tape.

7 Always leave a bit of room between your baits on a stringer to allow the water to get at the PVA between the baits.

8 Don’t use pure chopped boilies in your stick mix as the hook point could get masked.

9 When using solid bags, remember to pierce them before casting. This allows any trapped air escape.

10 Always use rig foam when fishing over weed or silt, as it will give your rig a much better presentation.

How to use stick floats

For some anglers, fishing a river with a stick float is the purest form of fishing. The stick float is designed to fish running water only. It is attached top, bottom and middle, via lengths of soft silicone, unlike a waggler, attached bottom only.

The aim is to smoothly run a hookbait through the swim to mimic the free offerings the angler is feeding. Putting a float through a moving water swim like this is called ‘trotting.’

Sometimes, the fish will want a bait trotting (travelling) at the same speed as the current. Sometimes, they’ll want one that moves slightly slower than the natural pace of the river. To slow down the hookbait the angler will have to ‘hold back’ his float. He does this by controlling the speed that line off his reel spool against the force of the current.

Stick floats are rated for capacity in exactly the same way as wagglers. As a general rule, aim to pick a stick float with 1xNo6 shot capacity for every foot of depth in the swim – so choose a 6xNo6 float for a 6ft deep swim. The two main types of dropper shot on stick floats are No6 and No8.

Two main shotting patterns exist – either ‘shirt button’, or ‘bulked’. Stick float rigs should be cast gently underhand to lay the shot out in a line and to avoid tangling.

Shirt Button shotting

Shot are placed down the line every six inches or so. The heaviest (No6) shot should be at the top, with the lightest (No8) at the bottom. This gives a slow, even drop so fish can grab the bait as it falls though the water, often referred to as ‘on the drop.’

Bulk shotting

Heavy shot (from No6 to BB) are bulked three quarters of the way down the line, with smaller ‘dropper’ shot below them. These larger shot are used to bomb the bait down through the water faster when target fish are on the deck in deep water.

There are many designs of stick float, with each pattern designed to tackle a different depth, speed of water, wind conditions, fishing range, or different species of fish. 

There are also many different types of sight tips from bulbous heads that can be easily seen on a long trot down the swim, and tiny, pointed ones for delicate, close-range roach and dace work.

Some have ‘shoulders’ so that the float can be held back against the flow to slow the hookbait down, without the tip rising clear of the water. There are four main categories:

Light Cane Stick

A small, streamlined balsa body on a cane stem. Ideal for presenting close to the bank on slow to medium paced rivers when fishing for roach, dace and chub. Cane stick floats lay flat on the surface and will begin to cock as each shot comes to rest underneath the float. These are the best floats to use when fishign baits 'on the drop'.

Plastic Stem Stick

The cane stem has been replaced with a more robust and slightly heavier plastic variety. These floats stand upright when dropped into the water and are therefore provide added stability when fishing pacey, fairly turbulent rivers or streams.

Wire/Alloy Stem Stick

The metal-stem stick is designed to be more stable in ‘boiling’ swims. The slim but heavy wire or alloy semi cocks the float, so less shot is needed down the line.

Lignum Stick

Made from heavy African wood for fishing well out from the bank. These floats are perfect for flicking out good distances, due to the weight in the float, therefore if you need to trot the central glide or even the far bank of a river swim, a lignum stick would probably be the best float to use.

CONTROLLING A STICK FLOAT

Fishing with a stick float requires a different technique than fishing a waggler, mainly because the float is constantly on the move. Not only will you have to watch the float for bites, but you'll need to keep an eye on it to make sure it travels downstream in a straight line (so the bait travels downstream naturally).

TIP CHOICE

1. This one’s for trotting a long way down the swim. You’ll see the large tip at distance.

2. A standard dome top stick like this is suitable for most jobs on normal flowing rivers.

3. This big ‘Bolo’ is for very deep, fast rivers where you need lots of weight to sink the bait.

4. A combination of float 5 and float 6. Use on fast water but retain delicate bite indication.

5. This pronounced bullet-shape tip and large ‘shoulder’ is for holding back in fast water.

6. This fine sight tip is for spotting delicate bites from roach and dace at close range.

How to control a stick float

Fishing a ‘stick’ on a river is all about float control. With practice and patience you’ll find it one of the most thrilling methods of catching a wide variety of river species.

To successfully fish the various types of stick float you’ll need a crisp-action rod to quickly pick up lots of stretchy line on the strike, but with shock-absorbtion to cushion fragile hooklengths and keep tiny hooks in place.

In the old days, the best stick float rods had a long length of slim, solid glassfibre spliced into the tip. Today, modern technology means most hollow tip carbon match rods will fit the bill.

As long as it is light and balanced enough to be held comfortably for five hours or more, the longer the rod the better. Far Eastern-built rods of 14ft to 17ft are now common and reasonably priced. A longer rod gives greater float control and makes stick float fishing significantly easier.

You can often run the float straight off the end of the rod, almost doing away with the need to ‘mend’ the line – the stick angler’s most important job while fishing.

Mending the line involves eliminating the ‘bow’ or ‘belly’ of line that can form in front or to one side of the float as it trots down the swim. (See picture sequence, below.) This extra line can pull the float out of position, or make it act unnaturally. It also prevents a direct strike when you get a bite.

You must keep a straight, tight line between rod tip and float to trot a stick float successfully. To do this, your reel line must float. A sinking line will drag the float under and you will be unable to strike cleanly.

You can fish a normal fixed spool reel with the bail arm open and use your finger to trap and release line from the spool to allow the float to travel down the swim at the pace of the river. Some anglers favour closed-face reels, which tend to tangle the line less in wind.

On faster rivers the ultimate trotting tool is a centrepin. The power of the current is enough to pull line off a good quality, smooth-running ‘pin. Slight thumb pressure on the edge of the drum can slow the float down, ensuring a tight line between rod tip and float. Correct feeding is also vital. Aim to feed six to a dozen maggots twice during each trot down the swim.

One really handy item of equipment is a bait bib. Big pouches on the front of the bibs can hold a couple of pints of maggots that you can easily and conveniently feed without having to keep bending down to pick up bait.

If you can run a stick float through at the pace of the current, you’ll catch fish but one trick to prompt a bite is to hold the float back hard every now and again. This causes the hookbait to waft enticingly up in the water. And that can lead to a fish grabbing the bait.

'MENDING' THE LINE

1. Keep a constant lookout for ‘bellies’ forming in the line and act immediately

2. Lift the rod up and away from the float to gather the excess line causing the bow

3. With the line straightened, reel in the excess and continue on your ‘trot’