Shot conversion chart

Here's a guide to the weights of each non-toxic and lead split shot available to buy in the UK. It's ideal for helping you to shot your pole and float rigs perfectly to suit the conditions, depths and the presentation you desire...

0.01g

Split shot size	Weight	Shot equivalent
3SSG	4.8g	6 x AAA
2SSG	3.2g	4 x AAA
LG	3g	-
LSG	2g	-
SSG	1.6g	2 x AAA
AAA	0.8g	2 x BB
AB	0.6g	2 x No1
BB	0.4g	2 x No4
No1	0.3g	3 x No6
No3	0.25g	2 x No6
No4	0.2g	3 x No9
No5	0.15g	2 x No8
No6	0.1g	2 x No10
No8	0.06g	2 x No11
No9	0.05g	-
No10	0.04g	2 x No12
No11	0.03g	-
No12	0.02g	2 x No13
No13	0.01g	-

Guide to pole elastics

If you are elasticating a pole for the first time and you are unsure of which strength elastic to use, and how many sections you need to thread it through, here's a guide to help you along...

Elastic strength	No of pole sections	Target venue and species
No 1 - No 3	Top-1 kit	Canals. Gudgeon, bleak, small rudd, small perch, small skimmers, ruffe
No 4 - No 6	Top-2 kit	Rivers, canals and lakes. Roach, rudd, perch, skimmers, small chub, carp and tench.
No 8 - No 12	Match top-3 or power top-2 kit	River, canal or lake. Carp, tench, chub, bream.
No 14 - No 18	Match top-3 or power top-2 kit	Lakes. Tench and carp in open water.
No 20-plus	Power top-2 kit	Lakes. Big carp or for margin fishing close to snags.

Guide to line breaking strains

Match anglers often refer to the lines they use in diameters, rather than breaking strain, which can be confusing to some.

They use this terminology when talking about the thickness of the high-tech lines they use, mostly when pole-fishing.

So, to help you understand each line's true strength we have compiled a list showing the most commonly used line diameters and their average relative breaking strains...

Line diameter	Average breaking strain
0.06mm	12oz
0.07mm	1lb 2oz
0.08mm	1lb 12oz
0.09mm	2lb
0.10mm	2lb 6oz
0.11mm	2lb 14oz
0.12mm	3lb 4oz
0.14mm	4lb 12oz
0.16mm	5lb 10oz
0.18mm	6lb 8oz
0.20mm	7lb 12oz
0.22mm	9lb
0.24mm	10lb 4oz
0.26mm	11lb 6oz

How to choose the right hook size

How do you pick the right hook?

Do you A - pick a hook to match the fish you're catching... or do you B - pick a hook to suit the bait you're fishing?

If you answered B you're doing it right!

Here's our guide to which baits are the best choice for the 13 sizes of hook available for the coarse angler.

We've detailed the best hook sizes to use for baits presented directly onto the hook, and the best hook sizes for baits presented off the hook, on a hair-rig.

Use this guide wisely and you're sure to catch more fish the next time your out on the bank...

Hook Size	Bait - on the hook	Bait - hair-rigged
26	Joker, bloodworm	None
24	Joker, bloodworm, Squatt	None
22	Squatt, bloodworm, pinkie	None
20	2xpinkie, maggot, caster, punched bread, hemp	None
18	Maggot, caster, punched bread, redworm, expander pellet, hemp, tares	None
16	2xmaggot, 2xcaster, punched bread, redworm, 1/2 dendrobaena, sweetcorn, expander pellet, tares	None
14	Breadflake, 3xmaggot, 2xsweetcorn, dendrobaena, cocktails, expander pellet	Single sweetcorn, meat
12	Breadflake, paste, meat, 3xsweetcorn, cocktails, chum mixer	Double sweetcorn, meat, mini boilie, peanut
10	Paste, meat, bread crust, chum mixer	Double sweetcorn, meat, maize, chum mixer, 10mm boilies, tiger nut
8	1/2 lobworm, paste, bread crust	21mm pellet, meat, triple sweetcorn, 11mm boilies, 14mm boilies, 2xchum mixer, maize, tiger nut, 14mm pellet
6	Whole lobworm, paste, bread crust, liphooked livebait	Meat, 16mm boilies, 19mm boilies, 21mm pellet
4	Whole lobworm, paste, bread crust, liphooked livebait	Meat, 20mm+ pellets, 20mm+ boilies
2	Paste, liphooked livebait	Meat, 20mm+ pellets, 20mm+ boilies

Guide to hooklengths

Although your hooklength is the weakest point of your fishing rig, it's one of the most crucial parts. How long should it be, how do you attach it and which line should you use? We have the answers...

WHAT IS A HOOKLENGTH?

A hooklength – also referred to as a ‘bottom’ – is a length of line that is nearly always thinner in diameter, and must have a lower breaking strain than the mainline.

The hook is tied to this lighter line and then attached to the thicker, stronger reel line (or rig line if you’re fishing the pole) via a special knot.

WHY USE A HOOKLENGTH?

HOOKLENGTHS serve two important functions. First, If you snag your hook and can’t free it, you’ll be forced to pull the line until it snaps. (This is called pulling for a break.)

When pulling for a break, never attempt to use the curve in your rod or pole to snap the line. You could easily shatter a pole section or damage a rod.

Wrap a rag or towel round your hand so the taught line doesn’t cut you, and pull slowly until it parts. Keep the line low and turn your head away because the float could catapult back and spear you in the face. The line will snap at the lighter breaking strain bottom, so you only lose your hooklength, not the whole rig including the float or feeder you’re fishing with. It also means you don’t leave yards of line in the water to endanger wildlife.

Secondly, a finer diameter hooklength is less likely to be detected by wary fish, especially in clear water.

WHAT BREAKING STRAIN?

AS a general rule, your hooklength should be at least a pound lighter in breaking strain than your mainline.

Many anglers, especially matchmen, now express all their lines – reel/rig lines and hooklengths – in terms of the line’s diameter in millimetres. For example, 0.17mm reel line (roughly 6lb 12oz breaking strain) to 0.15mm (5lb 14oz) hooklength.

In this case, you’re looking for a minimum 0.02mm difference between the reel/rig line and the hooklength.

HOW LONG A HOOKLENGTH?

OPINION differs as to how long a hooklength should be. Some canal anglers use hooklengths as short as four inches. Other anglers fishing slow-sinking baits like maggots and casters on clear water venues, make theirs as long as 30 inches.

If you’re tying your own hooks, a 12-inch hooklength is a good place to start. (Many pre-tied hooks to nylon are this length.)

Make sure you tie all your hooklengths the same length. This way, if you snap a hooklink and tie on another, or simply want to change to a bigger or smaller hook, you’ll still be fishing at exactly the same depth.

One good tip is not to nip dropper shot on fine diameter hooklengths if you can help it. Even legal lead split shot (size 8 or less) can damage and weaken fine lines.

WHAT LINES TO USE

IN summer, strong, stretchy and clear monofilament lines are best. When the colour drops out of water in winter, try fishing a fluorocarbon line.

Fluorocarbons are far less visible in water, but they’re more expensive to buy, and can be heavier, more brittle and wiry than monos.

WITH OR WITHOUT A LOOP?

THE best way to attach a hooklength is the loopto- loop method shown (below).

Tying the loops correctly is essential. If you just tie a granny knot, the loops can pull apart under pressure or part under sudden impact pressure – such as when striking into a fish.

The strongest loop by far is the figure of eight loop. The knot used to tie the figure of eight is 60% stronger than any other – and it’s simple to tie.

1. Grip the mainline between thumb and finger and then pass the mainline loop through the centre of the hooklength loop

2. The hooklength loop is now on the left so you need to pass the actual hook back through the mainline loop (right)

3. At this stage wet the loops in your mouth and gently pull the them together. The knot MUST look like this for full strength

4. If it looks like this, you have a lark’s tail knot which is up to 60% weaker than the correct loop-to-loop connection

HOW DO YOU CONNECT HOOKLENGTH TO MAINLINE?

Once you’ve tied figure of eight loops in your reel/rig line and your hooklength, follow the sequence below.

If you connect the loops the wrong way, you’ll end up with a lark’s tail knot – which is extremely weak, and could snap when you’re playing a big fish. Never use this knot!

If you’re unsure how to tie a figure of eight loop use a loop tier sold by tackle shops. The one shown is a Sensas model and costs £4.99 for a twin pack.

1. You will need a loop on both mainline and hooklength. First, fold 10cm of your line back on itself like this

2. Put the neck of the loop tier so that it captures both strands of line and pull it tight as shown

3. Rotate the head of the hook tier twice to twizzle the line. Then put the loop over the head of the tier and into the open ‘jaw’

4. Pull the line tigh to snug down the knot and then simply remove it from the ‘jaws’ and trim off the tag end neatly

Steve Ringer's Guide to Pole Fishing

Here is Steve Ringer's Guide to Pole Fishing...

"Welcome to my Angling Times guide to fishing the pole in association with Daiwa!

When I started fishing, poles were a rarity and often rubbish - too short, too heavy and too droopy - but how times have changed. Today even a £500 pole is a beauty and working with Daiwa, I've had hands-on experience of developing tackle that I just know will help any angler, regardless of their ability.

But there's more to pole fishing than owning a good pole. Like any method it needs thought putting into rigs, baits, feed and feeding strategies, plus where and when to fish in the peg. This super little guide will set you on the oad to a busy summer's fishing on commercial carp waters.

There's sound advice on buying and rigging up a pole, float choice and rigs, elastics, accessories and articles on four common pole approaches on carp waters - the margins, fishing shallow, silverfish and snake lake work.

If you're a beginner to the pole it'll be invaluable, but even experienced pole anglers will pick up a few gems of information too - after all, in fishing we never stop learning!"

Steve Ringer

How to use pole rollers

Splintering carbon is the sound pole anglers fear - now learn to reduce expensive breakages...

Pole rollers are essential to allow you to fish the long pole smoothly and effectively. Get it right and you’ll fish in comfort. Get it wrong and you’ll end up with backache or worse, an expensive pole breakage.

There are loads of models on the market from freestanding designs with three or four integral legs, to simple ‘V’ or flat-shaped roller heads that need to be screwed into a bankstick. Freestanding models are best because they can be used on concrete or wooden surfaces where a bankstick won’t penetrate.

HOW TO POSITION THE PERFECT POLE ROLLER

Left: CORRECT

1. Set your pole up to the length you are fishing.

2. Find the pole’s balancing point - where the part in front of you is as heavy as the part behind you.

3. Position your roller at this balancing point. When your pole comes off the roller it remains parallel to the ground and easy to to ship out.

Right: WRONG

If the roller is too close, the back of the pole dips down, forcing the tip upwards. The more you push the pole back, the more those sections protruding behind the roller sag under their own weight. This increases the pressure placed on the narrow piece of section resting on the roller. This fulcrum point is often where the expensive carbon section snaps or splinters.

WRONG

If the roller is positioned too far back you’ll struggle to set the pole down on the roller as the butt section tips downwards under its own weight, forcing the tip section upwards. Even if you do manage to get the butt on the roller, the pole will sag downwards in the centre, creating another stress breakage point.

CORRECT

When fishing two lines - one straight out into the lake and one down the margin - don’t try and use just a single pole roller. If you’re fishing the left hand margin at the 9 0’Clock position, place the second roller in the 3 O’Clock position (see pic above). This eliminates the need to sweep the pole all the way through to the 12 O’Clock position to ship onto your main roller.

Buying a new fishing pole

Thinking of buying a new fishing pole? Have you found a great deal on a fishing pole, but aren’t sure whether it’s the right one for you? Well here are lots of tips to help you decide which pole you should buy.

We think buying a pole the right pole is quite tough because they all look the same, apart from the graphics of course. After all, they are just featureless lengths of carbon that stick together to produce one long length of tapered carbon.

The important things that go towards creating a good pole, and the right pole for you, are hidden from view. Things like the weight, the strength and the balance are all invisible, and that’s what makes picking the right pole difficult.

The spares package that is supplied with most poles is definitely something that you must take into consideration, but if the pole itself is droopy, heavy, unwieldy and weak, what’s the point in having masses of spare top kits? No amount of spare sections is going to hide the fact that the pole you bought is a crap one!

Why buy a pole anyway?

This is a question that many anglers ask themselves. They see poles as match angler’s equipment that is best left to the professionals. But that’s wrong.

Poles are a real joy to use. Once you get used to using one, a pole will definitely help you catch more fish for a number of reasons:-

Accuracy – When you’re using a pole you can place your baited rig exactly where you want it. You couldn’t ever achieve that with a rod and reel.

Simplicity – There’s not a lot that can go wrong with a pole, and very rarely do you suffer tangles once you’ve had a little practice.

Depth finding – With a pole you can search the depths with a higher degree of accuracy than you ever could with a rod and reel, helping you to find gentle slopes and underwater ledges.

Proximity – Poles can place your rig within inches of a feature like lilies or reeds. You can’t do that with a waggler or a feeder rig.

Control – You can hold a pole rig back against the undertow of a lake or the flow of a river, meaning your bait acts more natural.

Speed – if you miss a bite when pole fishing, you can simply lift your rig out to see if your bait’s still on the hook and drop it back in again. There’s no need to reel the rig in and re-cast.

All those things combine to open up a whole new world to the angler, meaning more fish can be caught. That isn’t a bad thing when the reason we go fishing is to catch fish!

But of course it’s not all positives. There are some bad points involved in pole fishing:-

Range – You’re limited to the distance you can fish from the bank.

Expense – A decent pole and pole package can cost many more times that of a decent rod and reel.

Stigma – Most people regard poles as a match angler’s tool.

Back ache – It’s true that using poles at their full length can cause back ache, but that’s only because the pole isn’t being held correctly.

Types of poles

There are three types of poles to choose from: margin poles, carp poles and match poles (sometimes still called roach poles). Here’s a short explanation as to each type…

Margin poles are the shortest, ranging from 4m to 10m. They are very strong poles that are intended to be used for catching very large carp that patrol the marginal shelves of commercial carp fisheries. Because they are short, they are often very stiff because there’s not a great deal of downforce at the tip. Margin poles are great for young pleasure anglers, as well as professional match anglers, because they are light, robust and almost unbreakable. You can buy a very good margin pole for £150.

Carp poles are again very strong because they are designed to cope with the stresses of catching big, powerful fish quickly and regularly. This extra strength comes with additional weight due to the increased thickness of the pole sections. They are available in a wide variety of lengths from 10m through to over 17.5m. Most are supplied with additional top kits and most will handle the thickest grades of elastic available. You’ll be able to find a good 14.5m carp pole for around £500.

Match poles are the lightest, stiffest and best-balanced poles. They are designed for catching small to average-sized fish with all manner of elastic grades, but not the strongest grades. These are the poles that most match anglers use when tackling canals, mixed stillwaters and rivers where finesse is required. Match poles tend to be long – 14.5m and 16m – and quite costly due to the high grade of carbon used to eliminate the weight while retaining strength. A good quality match pole of 16m will cost £1,000 or more.

Which pole should you buy?

The answer to this question should depend upon the fisheries you tackle and the fish you want to catch, not the amount of spare cash you have, and not what pole your mates own.

If you tackle commercial fisheries that are stocked with all manner of different species big and small and you enjoy catching them all, an all-round match pole would be best.

If you tackle commercial carp waters with one aim only – to catch carp – then a carp pole or a margin pole will be the obvious choice.

If you’re an all-rounder who fishes canals, rivers and lakes a match pole is best, and the longest you can possibly afford so that you can reach the far bank margins of the canal as that’s where the better quality fish can be found.

Deciding on pole length

The key here, when buying a new pole, is to pick the longest you can afford as that will open up more options to you in terms of reaching fish-holding features. If your budget allows it, try to buy either a 14.5m pole or even a 16m version.

You obviously don’t have to use the pole at its full length every time it’s taken out of its holdall, but having the extra sections gives you the option to fish further out to reach the far bank, reach reeds, reach another underwater ledge if required.

You’ll find that most pole sessions will take place at around 11-13m out, but there are many times when they take place beyond that range.

Weight and balance

Most poles have their weight printed on the butt (end) sections, in catalogues and on websites. That’s a great starting point when choosing the best pole for you, but don’t for one second use that weight figure as the determining factor because, in reality, the weight of a pole is meaningless.

The pole’s weight is simply how much it weighs when it’s packed away. That’s no good really as you’re not going to use it when it’s packed away are you? You’re going to use it when it’s set up and pointing away from you.

Drennan are the only pole manufacturing company who have seen sense and have realised this. They still print the pole’s weight on the butt section, but they also print the pole’s downforce. That’s the figure that holds water. That’s what all pole manufacturers should print on their poles as it’s far more important to a potential buyer than the weight.

The downforce is the amount of weight that has to be placed upon the butt of the pole to lift the tip section off the ground. The more downforce that is required, the harder it will be to hold the pole. So, the lower the downforce, the better balanced and lighter the pole will feel and the easier it will be to fish with.

The only way to find out whether a pole feels ‘right’ is to visit a large tackle shop that has a pole showroom, or to head to a major fishing event such as our Gofishing Show and try picking a few poles up.

You could have two poles of exactly the same length and weight laying alongside each other, but when you pick them up you’ll instantly notice that one feels much lighter than the other. That’s because the lighter pole offers much better balance - it has been designed with more thought and probably higher quality carbon with less resin used to bond the carbon.

Buy the stiffest you can find

When you visit a tackle shop or a fishing show to try a few poles out, give them a good waggle. Practice striking with them. You’ll notice that some poles will wobble for ages after you’ve struck them. But some poles will quickly straighten and stop wobbling. Those are the poles to opt for – the ones that offer the highest degree of rigidity.

The reason why is because the stiffer poles will perform better in a wind (they won’t bend so much), they will enable you to hit fast bites, and they will prevent fish being bumped off the hook when you strike.

Check out the sections

It’s well worth giving some of the pole sections a squeeze, particularly the third, fourth and fifth sections (from the tip) as these are the main sections that you will hold when a fish is being netted. They are the sections that come under the most stress when a fish is being played under the pole tip.

Don’t squeeze the sections with your finger and thumb as you’re likely to crack the example in the shop, instead wrap your hand around the section and squeeze it with your hand to see if it’s really flexible.

If you think the section is just too thin and flexible, move on to try out another pole because replacing broken pole sections isn’t a quick or cheap thing.

Spares packages

Extra top kits and a cupping kit supplied with a pole are always handy. The cupping kit allows you to ship out loosefeed, or even small balls of groundbait, and drop it right where you want it. That’s a real bonus and will definitely help you catch more fish.

Extra spare top kits will also help you catch more fish because you’ll be able to set them up with different grades of elastic to suit the species you are going to catch, and also allow you to have a number of different rigs set up. You could have one set up for the shallow margins, another set up for catching fish on the bottom in front of you, and another set up for catching fish at mid-water. What’s more you’ll be able to quickly switch between the three different rigs in seconds, saving time, effort and making your fishing session run a lot more smoothly than ever before.

Most poles nowadays, even short margin poles, are supplied with at least one spare top kit, but some decent poles will come with three or four spare top kits plus a cupping kit too.

Some poles are also supplied with ‘short fourth sections’ and ‘half-ex’s’. Short fourths are simply spare No4 pole sections that are half the length of normal fourth sections. They offer more power and strength than normal fourth sections so they can be used instead of the normal No4 section when fishing for larger species. The extra strength allows the angler to play the fish easily at the net, without fear of breaking the pole.

These shorter, more rigid sections are also handy when fishing in a wind as they help stiffen the pole up a little, retaining its rigidity.

Half-Ex’s are half-metre extensions that fit into the butt of the pole. They are very strong indeed and ideal for sitting on. This means you can fish the pole at full length, with the half-ex in place, and sit on the very end of the pole while holding the pole in front with your cupped hands. This makes holding the pole between bites a little easier on your back.

Accessories you’ll need

If you’re buying a pole for the very first time you’ll need certain accessories in order to be able to use it properly, and here’s the list…

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Pole roller

A vital piece of kit that should be placed behind you when fishing. Rather than break down each pole section individually, the pole should be pushed back until it rests on the roller and then it’s free to slide out of the way until you reach the point where you can break the pole down to land the hooked fish.

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Pole grip

Once your pole is sat on the roller and broken down, placing the pole into a grip of some description ensures the pole doesn’t slide into the water or roll around the bank. Some anglers slide the end of the pole into the mouth of their keepnet, which serves the same purpose and saves a few quid.

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Elastic

You’ll need some elastic as it’s the elastic that takes the strain of the hooked fish. There are many different strengths in many different colours, but basically you will need enough to elasticate all your top kits.

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Diamond eye threader

This vital piece of kit is a 3m-long wire with a diamond shape in the end. It’s used to pull the elastic through the tip of the pole when you are setting it up.

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Bung and retriever

The elastic within the pole will need trapping in place with a bung. Make sure you buy one large enough to fit within your top kit, but don’t worry if it looks too large as you will have to cut it down to size with a knife anyway.

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PTFE bush

These tiny plastic items are used either in or around the very tip of your pole top kits. They form a barrier between the elastic and the carbon, making sure the elastic doesn’t become damaged. Make sure you get a bush that has a large enough internal bore size to allow the elastic to slide through it freely. Whether you decide upon an internal or an external bush is up to you.

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Connector – These small plastic items are tied onto the end of the pole elastic and have small hooks to attach your pole rig to. There are many different sizes and colours – just choose one large enough for the elastic you’re going to use.

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Lubricant – This is a crucial item. Every time your pole is used you need to pull the bung from the end of the pole top section and give the elastic a squirt of lubricant to make sure it runs smoothly in and out of the pole.

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Rigs – You can make your own pole rigs or you can buy them ready made. It’s probably best to buy ready made rigs to begin with, as you’re getting the feel of your new pole, but eventually it’s best (and cheaper) if you make your own as you’ll be able to fine-tune your rigs to suit the venue that you are fishing regularly.

Buying a new fishing reel

Need a little help buying a new fishing reel, buying your first reel, figuring out whether you need a new fixed spool reel, free spool reel, front drag reel or rear drag reel? Well you’ve come to the right place as here’s a detailed article providing masses of help to ensure you purchase the correct reel.

Read on and you’ll be able to decide what style of reel to choose, what size, what number of ball bearings and what configuration of fishing reel you will need to help you cast effectively and catch a whole lot more fish.

We’ve split this article into sections to help you through the many different features of fishing reels, what they do, how they can help the angler and much more besides…

Style of reels available

The coarse angler has six different styles of reel available to use, all detailed below. Some are extremely flexible and can be used for a huge array of different fishing styles, while others are really quite specialised and are best used in certain circumstances, and even only with certain baits.

Fixed spool reels

By far the most common fishing reel available – almost every single angler in the country has at least one fixed spool reel.

The reason why they are called fixed spool reels is simple – the spool of the reel, under normal fishing circumstances, doesn’t move. It is set in a fixed position and instead the rotor arm passes around the spool to wind the line back onto the spool. Years before fixed spool reels were invented anglers used centrepin reels that did have revolving drums.

Fixed spool reels come in a wide variety of sizes, colours and configurations. Some have front drag systems, some have rear drag systems. Some have single handles, some have double handles. You’ll find much more information concerning these features below.

This type of fishing reel makes for a great all round reel. It could be used for float fishing, legering, lure fishing, trotting, specimen fishing, pleasure fishing or match fishing – it really is the most versatile reel we have at our disposal.

What makes fixed spool reels so versatile is that they are cheap, they are easy to use, they often come supplied with extra interchangeable spools to hold different strengths of fishing line, and they are reliable. Some of the best reels on the market will last decades of service, without a need for a service too!

Their mechanisms can be locked at a flick of a switch to ensure that the reel cannot turn backwards and this is brilliant when legering as it allows the angler to fine-tune a quivertip to help spot every single bite.

They can be used for close range fishing right through to 100-yard casts with a heavyweight feeder – they really are incredibly versatile.

You could pick up a new, budget fixed spool reel for as little as £5, and for only £30 you will be able to find a reliable reel that will last a good few seasons. Fixed spool reels that will last a lifetime cost upwards of £100.

Free spool reels

Free spool fishing reels are an advanced design of fixed spool reels. They are exactly the same as fixed spool reels but they have one additional feature – an extra drag system.

This system, when it’s switched on, will allow the reel’s spool to turn under a set amount of tension determined by the angler. So, if a fish were to pick up a baited rig and swim off with it, line can strip from the reel easily. All the angler has to do to stop the line coming off the reel is to pick up the rod and turn the reel’s handle to disengage the free spool mechanism.

This feature is widely used by specimen carp, barbel, pike and catfish anglers as those species are widely known to pick up baits and swim off with them.

If a normal reel is used for this purpose there’s a very high chance that the fish would simply drag the rod and reel into the water because the spool can’t revolve to pay out line – it’s happened many times before.

Generally speaking free spool reels tend to be larger and heavier than fixed spool reels because there’s more mechanics within the reel’s body, and they tend to be used for casting heavier rigs longer distances, so the spools are often on the large side.

There are some free spool reels on the market costing as little as £15, but pay upwards of £40 and you will have a reel that’s reliable, performs well, casts well and won’t let you down when a big fish is cranked back to the net.

Big pit reels

Big fish anglers often need to cast extreme distances with either their baited rigs or with marker rod or spod set-ups. These are the times when a big pit reel come into play.

These specialist fixed spool reels are huge. They have small bodies, large handles, great cranking power, but above all they have enormous spools capable of holding many 100s of yards of thick line.

They offer the same features as most fixed spool reels (anti-reverse, line clips, folding handles etc) but their massive spools allow the angler to cast far further than he has ever done before.

Line on these large spools can strip off easily and with very little resistance, ensuring that the baited rig, marker float or spod flies as far as possible.

Carp, catfish and pike anglers tend to use big pit reels when they are fishing, feeding or finding a swim at range.

Some big pit reels come with a free spool facility that can be used to let the fish swim off with a baited rig and this feature gives the specialist big-fish angler even more reason to want to own one or a set.

Cheaper big pit reels will cost around £40, but expect to pay in the region of £80-plus for a reliable model that will last for many seasons and through the fights of many big fish.

Centrepin reels

Although somewhat outdated, centrepin reels take some beating when fishing flowing water. A well looked-after centrepin that rotates well will give the angler years of superb river float fishing because the rotating drum will pay out line at exactly the speed of the current. And this ensures that the baited rig travels downstream naturally and enticingly.

A good centrepin reel will not only spin for long periods, it ought to stop and revolve in the opposite direction with the gentlest of taps on the drum or the handles. This ability will prove very useful when hooking into a fish as the reel will have to stop quickly and begin revolving in the opposite direction for retrieval of the fish or the rig.

There are two main types of centrepin – wide drum and narrow drum. If you intend to fish with fine lines for small fish using light float rigs then a narrow drum centrepin is best. But if you’re intent on using strong lines for heavy float work, stret pegging or rolling baits for barbel then opt for a wide drum model.

Some centrepins are supplied with ratchets. This is basically a spring-loaded switch that can be engaged to tighten the reel’s drum to hinder it from spinning – but it doesn’t lock it tight. The ratchet is useful when legering to create a tight line to the lead, and also to provide audible bite detection due to the ratchet clicking as the drum starts to revolve when a fish takes line.

Another feature that might be found on centrepin reels is a drag system. This simply allows the angler to tighten the drum a little, slowing the revolving drum. This again comes in useful when legering or when trotting a river and you need to slow the speed of the drum down to hinder the progress of your rig. Drags can be fine-tuned easily to provide the perfect speed of rotation.

Although very simple in their design, centrepin reels aren’t cheap. A good one from a reputable manufacturer will cost in the region of £150 to £250. But you’ll have a sound reel that will - if treated well - last a lifetime and beyond without depreciating massively.

Closed face reels

Closed face reels, like centrepin reels, are quite specialist tools. There have only ever been a handful of closed face reels in production from the likes of Ryobi (now obsolete), Daiwa and ABU Garcia.

They found favour with the river angler because not only are they extremely light and therefore easy on the arms, with a dab of an outstretched forefinger the bale pin or pins would release and line would peel from the enclosed spool very smoothly.

This enabled river anglers to cast their stick floats, trot the rig downstream and trap line for the strike without a hint of a problem.

They were the next best thing to centrepin reels – even better in some cases because closed face reels are much easier to cast than centrepin reels, giving even the novice angler the chance to catch river fish on the float.

They aren’t the most powerful reel though. And they aren’t the most technically advanced either. In most instances, after a couple of seasons use the average closed face reel sounded more like a coffee grinder than a reel when it was wound.

But there are still many closed face reels in use on rivers and stillwaters, undoubtedly due to their ease of use, ease of casting, their low weight and the fact that the enclosed spool prevents wind from creating problems with the line.

In the last few weeks of 2009 ABU Garcia released an upgraded version of their very popular Premier closed face reel – the new Premier 706. This is a sound investment for the float angler and retails at around £75.

Multiplier reels

More frequently used by sea anglers fishing from boat or beach, multipliers are also used by some coarse fisherman when lure fishing.

Because of the small and compact nature of multiplier reels and the fact that they can be operated by the thumb, multiplier reels lend themselves perfectly to lure fishing. An avid lure angler can cast artificial baits many yards single-handedly really easily.

The only problem facing lure anglers who choose to use multiplier reels is the rod. As multipliers are positioned on top of the rod, it’s necessary to buy a rod designed to be used with a multiplier. The reel seat has to be slightly different, the blank action has to be different and the way the line guides are positioned has to be different to the norm as well.

Multipliers are very easy to use, but only when they have been set up correctly. The brake has to be adjusted to prevent the drum spinning after the lure has entered the water. If it’s not tightened correctly the drum will carry on rotating, causing line to strip from the drum and tangle. After a few of these near impossible to save tangles you’ll wish you had set the drag correctly!

ABU Garcia and Masterline multiplier reels are firm favourites among lure anglers.

Drag systems

All modern fixed spool reels have drag systems. Some of them are adjustable at the back of the reel (rear drag) while some are adjustable upon the spool (front drag reels).

Rear drag models are the most popular among pleasure anglers, while front drag reels are the favourite among lure anglers and increasingly popular among match anglers.

Both style of drags provide the same function – they tighten or slacken the movement of the spool. When the drag is set at its loosest setting, the spool will rotate easily and a fish will be able to pull line from the reel faster than you’ll be able to wind it in.

At its tightest setting the spool will lock tight and the line will snap before the spool gives and starts to pay out any line.

Once a rig has been made the drag should be adjusted to suit. To do this guess the drag required, hold the rod and reel in one hand, and hold your line and in the other. Flex the rod as far as you can to see if the line begins stripping from the spool.

You should adjust the drag so that the spool begins paying out line just before the line gives up and snaps.

Regarding the performance of the different types of drag systems – front drag reels have the edge over rear drag reels simply because the mechanics of the drag don’t have to run all the way through the reel’s body – they are positioned right on the end of the spool. This means that front drag reels are slightly more effective than rear drag models. Maybe this is why so many of our top-flight match anglers prefer front drag reels.

Most reel manufacturers code their front drag reels as FD, and their rear drag reels as RD.

Some of the more advanced and expensive fixed spool reels have a fighting drag system. This is yet another drag switch set at the rear of the reel’s body and by either pushing it to the left or right will either tighten the drag or loosen it. This feature will ensure that you have direct control over a hooked fish at all times throughout the fight, ensuring that the fish can take line when necessary, and you can also tighten up and stop the fish if it heads towards any snags.

Bearings

The amount of bearings set inside a reel will determine how smooth-running it is. But bearings help prolong the reel’s lifespan too, taking the brunt of any wear and tear of the moving parts.

Basic, budget fixed spool reels tend to have one, two or three bearings, while top of the range fixed spool reels may have as many as 12.

Pick up two reels – one having a few ball bearings and one having many and give them a spin. You’ll soon feel the difference, and what a difference it makes!

Spools

Multipliers, centrepins and big pit reels tend to only be supplied with the one spool, but closed face reels, fixed spool reels and free spool reels may well have a spare spool, or more in the case of higher quality reels.

This isn’t a sales gimmick – it’s a useful addition that allows anglers to load up each spool with different strengths of line, or braid depending upon what you prefer using.

If stored safely in a watertight bag that doesn’t allow light to penetrate, the line upon the spare spools will last for a year or more, depending upon how much it’s used.

If you do invest in a reel with additional spools the best and simplest way to remember the strength of line on each is to paint a little Tipp-Ex on the inside of the spool, let it dry, then use a fine permanent pen to write down the line strength over the Tipp-Ex blob. Simple!

The spools of rear drag reels can be released by pressing the centre button at the very front of the spool. To release front drag spool you will have to fully unscrew the front disk, but be careful not to knock off any washers from the spindle.

Free spool conversions

If you have a large reel, but wish it was a free spool reel, there are companies that specialise in converting the spool assembly to transform the reel into a free spool model.

For much less than the price of a new free spool reel you could transform your favourite large fixed spool reel into a model that will let line strip from the spool if a big fish decides to take the baited rig.

Line lay

The flatter the lay of line upon a reel’s spool the better the reel will perform when casting. You’ll cast further with less effort, and you’ll be able to cast with much more accuracy too.

A flat line lay will ensure that the line peels off the spool consistently and with less resistance than a spool that has a curved line lay.

Unfortunately this is impossible to know when you’re buying a reel off the shelves. To find out a reel’s line lay check out reviews of new models within the angling press or on this website as we have the chance to load the reels fully and try them out.

Line clips

If you’re not that bothered about accuracy when you’re casting then you don’t need to worry about whether the spool on your reel has a line clip or not. But you should be bothered as accuracy is everything when fishing.

If you keep casting feeders to the same spot every time you will catch more fish, and a line clip on your spool will help you achieve this.

All you need to do is cast out your rig to the chosen distance and then wrap the line around the clip. Retrieve the rig, aim it towards the same spot and chances are the line will shoot off the spool until it hits the line clip, making the rig stop. That will provide you with the accuracy you need to ensure you hit the same spot upon every single cast.

Retrieve ratio

The retrieve ratio of a reel gives an indication of the reel’s speed. The average fixed spool reel will have a retrieve ratio of around 5.2:1. This means that the rotor assembly will spin around the spool 5.2 times for every one full turn of the handle. That’s about the average speed of a general purpose fixed spool reel.

Really powerful specialist reels such as some big pit reels have much slower retrieve ratios -along the lines of 4:1. This gives the reel more cranking power, allowing the angler to take control of larger, extremely powerful fish easily.

There are some fixed spool reels available that have very high speed retrieves – as high as 7.2:1. These are a little too specialist for the average angler as the very swift retrieve rate could cause problems with the line and hooklength spinning violently as the rig is retrieved, ultimately causing tangles.

High speed reels are ideal when fishing at long range during match fishing circumstances as the angler can bring the rig back quickly, saving time.

An everyday fishing session, where normal distances are being fished, and average fish are being caught will demand a ‘normal’ reel to be used having a retrieve ratio of between 4.8:1 and 5.4:1.

Size

When a reel manufacturer produces a new reel they tend to create around four different sizes so the angler can pick the one that best suits the fishing circumstances.

Unfortunately there isn’t a standard size code for reels, but most manufacturers use numbers to indicate the size.

Some companies use the numbers 1000, 2500, 3000, 4000 etc through to 12000 (smallest first) to indicate the size of the reel, while others use 025, 030, 035, 040 (smallest first).

Reels in the 1000, 1500, 2000, 020 and 025 size are lightweight, compact models ideal for lure fishing or for light float fishing purposes. 3000, 3500, 4000, 030, 035 reels are better suited to general pleasure fishing, float fishing and legering where fish of many sizes may be caught.

Specialist anglers favour reels in the 5000, 6000, 8000, 060, 070 and 080 ranges as they hold more line, tend to be more powerful and therefore will reach further distances and control larger fish.

Big pit, long casting reels will be size 10,000 or even 12,000. These are for really long range fishing situations, spodding or marker float work.

Handles

The choice of reel handle is a personal one. You won’t get much of a choice when deciding between centrepin, multiplier and closed face reels because they are all pretty much the same. But the three types of fixed spool reels offer a wide variety of handle shapes and lengths. Some of the higher range fixed spool reels also have double handles to provide better balance upon the retrieve and quicker use as it’s easier to locate a handle that has two grips than a single handle.

Take a close look at the grip of the handle and see if it’s large enough for your hands. It will pay to check out the type of grip too – some are likely to offer a good grip when dry, but would it slip in the wet?

There’s no reason to have long handles upon any reel other than big pit reels – these reels demand long handles to enable the angler to power into large fish or to retrieve rigs that have been cast very long distances.

How to elasticate a pole from start to finish

A pole needs elastic to cushion the fight from a battling fish. We’ve teamed up with tackle giants Maver and leading pole angler Jamie Masson to show how to turn the new pole you left the tackle shop with into one you can actually use.

In this article Jamie shows us how to create a silverfish set-up and a heavier carp rig. 

How to elasticate a silverfish kit using the No1 and No2 sections from a match 3 kit...

1. You’ll need the following tools to do the job – fine hacksaw, sharp craft knife and sticky tape

2. The narrowest diameter (No.1) section is telescopic and should be pushed into the No2 section

3. Pull the thin No1 section right through the No2 until it seats tightly

4. Take a Maver Rappa Bung (this allows you to adjust tension) and push it tightly into the No2 section

5. Add the extractor rod into the bung . Count the number of rings left exposed – in this case its 6

6. Withdraw the bung and place the knife a further two rings along the narrowing bung (that’s 8)

7. Carefully cut the bung at this point (on the eighth ring)

8. The bung will now slide 6 inches into the No2 section. This gives room to connect the No3 section

9. Match the diameter of an internal PTFE pole bush to the diameter of the No1 section

10. Score the pole all the way round at this position and very gently snap off the excess

NOTE: If cutting a larger section Jamie wraps it with tape and cuts with a hacksaw

11. If the bush doesn’t fit, keep cutting off very small pieces (2mm-3mm) of No1 until it does

How to elasticate a power 2 kit for larger fish like carp...

1. Once again you’ll need exactly the same tools as you used to rig up your silverfish top 2 kit. This time we’ll be using the supplied top 2 power kits which are stronger, to cope with big hard-fighting fish

2. Repeat the bung sizing process (above). This bung should fit into the base of the Power 2

3. Push the eye of the wire diamond threader through the base of the Power 2 out of the No1 section

4. Now slip the elastic through the diamond eye until it grips firmly in the wire

5. Pull the protruding wire from the bottom of the No2 section, dragging the elastic with it

6. Now go back to the pole tip end and thread on the ‘cup’ part of the stonfo connector like this

7. Thread the elastic through the hole in the ‘peg’ part of the stonfo connector like this

8. Tie an ordinary overhand knot in the elastic. Now push the ‘peg’ and the ‘cup’ firmly together

9. This Maver Rappa Bung allows you to wind on extra elastic so you can adjust the tension

10. This pole also comes with a cupping kit, you’ll need to make it up. First, fit the screw thread

11. Cut the end of the No.1 cupping kit section so that the screw thread fits tightly over it

12. Add a dab of superglue on to the end of the cupping kit ‘s No1 section

13. Push the screw thread adaptor on to the end of the section and hold firmly until the glue sets

14. You are then able to screw on the two cups that come with the Maver 121 pole

15. Clean Caps which help clean the female joint when unshipping

16. They’re a tight fit so you need to work them in your fingers to soften them

17. These go on the sections you remove most – No3 and No4

Jamie Masson's guide to fishing the pole

Taking your first steps into the world of pole fishing can be confusing to say the least. Although pole fishing in itself is really very simple because after all there's no reel or casting to contend with, there's still lots to learn.

To help you along when taking your first steps into the world of pole fishing, we joined Jamie Masson for an in-depth look at some important basics of fishing a pole.

These little details really matter. They may seem insignificant and many anglers either do them wrong or completely ignore them. But put them all together, and these suggestions will help improve your pole angling no end.

Here’s what Jamie had to tell us...

HOW TO SIT CORRECTLY

On the level   Having a level seatbox is the key to pole fishing success

Something as simple as the way that you set up your seatbox and then how you sit on it can make all the difference between a keepnet full of fish and excruciating back pain. By keeping your back, knees and feet at 90-degrees to each other, you’ll be able to fish the pole comfortably for many hours.

Look... no hands!   A balanced pole equals better angling

Balance is imperative to successful pole fishing.

The weight of the pole should be distributed between the forearm and thigh so that the pole can be held steady while giving the angler the ability to use both hands freely.

This skill can only be achieved with practice but it is worth the effort. You can easily feed with a catapult or do other tasks while fishing. This makes the session easier and you’ll catch more fish.

PLUMBING THE DEPTHS   Take time to map out the swim’s contours

Only by taking your time to plumb the depth of the swim in front of you can you get an accurate idea of its contours.

On many lakes there will be quite obvious features to fish to – like islands margins, reed and/or lily beds or snags.

However, there can also be a number of fish-holding features that are less obvious, under the water.

Depressions in the lakebed, weedbeds or the bottom of marginal shelves can all attract and hold large heads of fish.

This means the proficient pole angler will spend at least 10 minutes searching all of the water in front of them to find these hidden, golden areas.

To see what the bottom is made of, Jamie always uses a 1oz plummet and lowers it slowly through the water on a tight line until it touches the bottom. The sensation that registers up the line tells him a lot about what he’s fishing on.

If the plummet sticks the bottom is soft silt, if it feels firm but not hard the bottom is clay, if the plummet lands with a ‘bang’ the lake bed is gravelly.

ON THE DROOPAdjust your elastic with a Rappa Bung

All new pole elastics have a great deal of stretch in them.

After playing a large fish, the elastic may not fully retract to its original length, causing it to droop out of the end of the pole.

To adjust this tension, Jamie always elasticates his pole with an adjustable bung which incorporates a winder.

This winder allows you to adjust the tenstion of the elastic.

There are a number of different types of adjustable winder bungs on the market. Jamie always uses a Maver Rappa bung in his set-ups.

The excess elastic can be simply wound around this Rappa Bung,to take up slack, or even make it quite tight for fishing close to snags.

To loose the droop, firstly pull the No2 and No3 top kit sections apart

Insert the Extractor Rod into the top kit and pull out the Maver Rappa Bung from inside the number two section

The loose excess elastic is then wound around the winder incorporated into the Rappa Bung

KEEPING THINGS CLEANUsing joint cleaners and Shipper Bungs will extend your pole’s life

Dirt and grit are a pole joint’s worst enemy – nothing will wear a pole out faster.

By using Maver’s Clean Cap system and Shipper Base Bungs, Jamie ensures that the insides of his most frequently unshipped sections – No3 and No4 – are always cleaned. The Shippa Bung protects the pole’s base sections from damage.

Trouble ahead!

Without the use of a Shipper Bung, the pole’s base

sections can be easily damaged on bankside debris

Shipper Bung

By using a Maver Shipper Bung, the base

sections of the pole will be protected

CATAPULTING CORRECTLY WITH A POLE   To catch effectively, you need to master feeding while holding the pole

Many novice pole anglers struggle to hold a pole – especially at longer lengths.

The good news is, it is very easy to do after a little practice.

The first thing is to ensure the pole is balanced correctly. Secondly, rather than pulling the catty pouch backwards, push the catty frame forwards with your chosen hand, while holding the pouch steady in the other.

Tops and cupsHaving your cupping and top kits the same length means it’s easier to feed accurately

When Jamie first sets up his pole he tries to keep all of his top kits the same length as his cupping kit. This ensures that his rigs are right over any loosefeed that he has cupped into the swim. This is vital in cold water situations.

How to fill your groundbait feeder

Filling a groundbait feeder with crumb and feed isn't simply a case of shoving the feeder into the groundbait mix - there's a little more to is than that...

You need to fill the feeder in such a way that the groundbait leaves the feeder easily, but also remains inside the feeder when you cast it.

Here's a few simple steps that you can easily follow to ensure that you get the vest best from your groundbait feeders the next time you're out legering.

It's worth noting that your groundbait must be mixed correctly too - it should be soft, fluffy, slightly damp and be sticky enough to hold together with a single squeeze of one hand.

We also have a superb video that explains everything you need to know about fishing with groundbait and a feeder here.

Place the feeder, bottom down, into your fluffy groundbait mix

Holding the feeder at the top push it firmly down into the groundbait mix to the point seen here

Lift out the feeder and with your fingers supporting the bottom, use your thumbto compress the mix inside

You should end up with a stiff plug of bait in the bottom. This will allow you to cast without the bait flying out

Now use the plugged feeder as a scoop to fill the remainder with light and fluffy mix

Use your thumb to gently tamp in this scooped up groundbait

The perfect feeder mix will travel through the water intact but ‘explode’ when it gets to the bottom

How to make the perfect PVA bag

There is no better way to accurately feed a carp swim than by using PVA bags filled with bait, and here we show you how to make, tie and create bags of bait.

It's quick, easy and cheap... but much more than that this technique of delivering little parcels of highly attractive baits, additves and goodies right next to your hookbait is by far the most accurate and productive way of fishing for both huge and medium-sized carp.

But it's not just carp that respond to this technique - you could use PVA bags for bream, tench and catfish on stillwaters, and even barbel and chub on rivers.

Once tied securely, the bags are simply clipped onto the hook and cast out into the swim. Once the rig hits the bottom the PVA will begin to dissolve, and after less than a minute the bag will have fully dissolved to leave a small pile of goodies that surrounds your hookbait. Perfect!

How to make the perfect bag

1. Fill your PVA Funnel Web with dry bait like this.

2. Remove filled bag and cut it to leave 4cm of the bag over the bait.

3. Now cut vertically down the centre of the excess Funnel Web to form two tag ends.

4. Finally, tie the two tag ends together like this to create the perfect tight bag.

Boilie web

Top: Tightly tie three boilies in Boilie Funnel Web PVA stocking.
Middle: Gently squeeze top bait in between the other two.
Bottom: Hair rig one one the end boilies, making it your hookbait.

As an alternative to stringers, use Funnel Web to present boilies. Take three hard, air-dried boilies and place them into the boilie Funnel Web tube. Place two baits side by side and the third on top to form a triangle. Tightly tie off the bag. Force the top bait in between the two bottom baits, stretching the PVA bag. Hair rig one of the end baits to your rig and cast into the swim. When the PVA starts to dissolve, the network bag will shrink, causing the middle bait out and throwing the two freebies further apart. This gives a different presentation than a standard stringer and could result in a few more fish.

Wet baits can be used in PVA!

Although wet baits are not normally used with PVA, you can get away with it with a little care. For example, you can add groundbait to particles and nuts (below) to dry them off.

Also, try coating the inside of a solid bag with an oil-based liquid or Hinder’s Tiger Slime before adding the damp bait. Alternatively, thoroughly dry your particles before bagging them up.

Many anglers try ‘doublebagging’ damp baits. This is using two PVA bags, rather than one.

Step 1. Take a couple of handfuls of wet bait and place into a bait box.

Step 2. Add just enough groundbait to dry the particles.

Step 3. The mix should now be dry enough to be PVA friendly.

How to make a 50/50 PVA bait stick

Knowing how to create a 50/50 PVA Bait Stick can put your streets ahead when fishing for big carp.

Not only does this method allow the angler to present plenty of highly attractive bait within millimetres of the hookbait, but when created as per the instructions below, a neat tube of bait wrapped in PVA can be used to hide the hooklength and therefore help you enormously when it comes to tricking really line-shy carp.

Although this is a method created to catch big carp, there's simply no reason why you cannot alter the bait incredients to help you tempt big barbel, tench and bream.

Experimentation is key to this method. Once you have mastered how to put the bait inside the PVA stocking you're well on your way...

You could try bread crumbs, fruit flavoured groundbait, different colours of groundbait, crushed pellets, all manner of different baits to give you the edge the next time you're on the bank.

Here's how it's done...

How to make a 50/50 stick

1. Use a vegetable chopper to chop up some boilies.

2. Here’s what they should look like – very finely chopped.

3. Now push a small amount of very lightly-dampened groundbait into a Funnel Web tube.

4. Add the same amount of your chopped-up boilies.

5. Compress, push the web from the plastic tube and tie the ends. Pull your hooklength through from the groundbait end.

6. Continue to pull the baiting needle through until the hook point sits in the bottom of the web bag in the groundbait like this.

7. Attach the top of the hooklink on to a quick link.

8. The finished rig ready for casting.

What happens to a bait stick underwater?

Because the mix has been highly compressed in the tube, it explodes from the melting PVA like this.

The deadly Dynamite Stick

Korda's Funnel Web PVA system became very famous after Nick Helleur invented the Dynamite Stick. A Dynamite Stick is a very compressed, three-to-four-inch ‘sausage’ of Dynamite Baits’ tinned Meaty Marine groundbait.

Because the groundbait is compressed, the PVA sausage explodes on the bottom. This not only attracts carp, but also perfectly covers the hooklink.

This technique has since been copied by many anglers and seen by many fish. Therefore, you need to do something slightly different to still get bites.

One way to keep one step ahead of the rest is to use a 50/50 mix of Dynamite Baits' Meaty Marine groundbait coupled with a black groundbait such as Black Swimstim. This darkens the mix, making it just as potent in terms of the smell, but less obvious to any passing carp.

It's best to avoid oily baits in the winter because the oil can leak into the PVA, preventing it from dissolving properly. At this time of the year use either low oil content crushed pellets or add a higher percentage of crumb-based groundbait to your Meaty Marine groundbait.

After casting, the PVA bag and hooklink sit for a few seconds on the bottom like this.

How to create the perfect PVA bait stringer

PVA string or tape is the perfect medium for feeding full or broken boilies right next to your hookbait. A short length - say 12 inches - can make or break a session by ensuring that you present a neat little pile of free offerings right where it counts, and that's next to your hook.

This technique, clearly detailed below, can be used when fishign for carp, tench, barbel, chub, bream or catfish.

It can be used for presenting half boilies, full boilies, meat, drilled pellets and even drilled Chum Mixers accurately, and the bext of it is, because a string of bait doesn't weigh much, it can be cast very easily upon Avon rods or lightweight carp rods.

Here's how to make a bait stringer in six easy steps...

1. What you need: PVA tape, stringer needle, sharp scissors and several boilies or large pellets.

2. Cut off 15cm of the PVA tape.

3. Thread your boilies on to the needle, fold the tape over and hook your needle over the tape. Halve some of the boilies to help fl avour release.

4. Gently slide your baits from needle on to tape. Leave a 5mm gap between the baits on the tape and ensure the double thickness of tape goes through all the bait.

5. To prevent the hair tangling on the cast, use a small piece of separate PVA tape to tie the hair tightly to the hook bend.

6. Finally, attach the stringer the hook by pushing the hook points through the tape. Cast her in!