River Fishing Tips | PVA or feeder for barbel? - Alfie Naylor
Both the feeder and PVA bag have their place in barbel fishing and are brilliant tactics at delivering loose-feed close to your hookbait.
Personally, I think that a PVA bag and lead arrangement creates much less disturbance than a feeder. The feeder does work for the bigger barbel, though, if you want to slowly build a swim by constantly casting and introducing bait.
The feeder is a great tool to build a swim with feed
When fishing for barbel on rivers like the Trent, I like to put a fairly big bed of bait out at the start, then have one cast with a bag on and leave the bait out until I get a take. After each fish, I’ll top up with two bait droppers of feed.
I prefer to use a PVA bag for a ‘bait and wait’ approach
I feel the disturbance from me landing a fish pushes them away from the baited area, and now is the time to feed the swim again.
Both methods will catch big barbel if used correctly
River fishing tips with Dave Harrell
Top river angler Dave Harrell has been answering some of your most burning questions. Take a look at see what you can take out onto the bank with you this weekend.
BLOCKEND OR OPEN?
Q) Which is the best sort of feeder for chub fishing in the winter? I’ve got blockend and open-end but I am never sure which to use.
A) I would go down the blockend route with maggots while it’s cold. Chub love maggots, and if they’re hungry they won’t be able to resist! Use a long tail of around 3ft to 4ft if bites are slow.
ARTIFICIAL MAGGOTS
Q) Is it worth trying artificial maggots? They look so realistic but I’ve yet to use them as hookbait.
A) They’re well worth trying if you are being pestered by small fish, as you know there will always be something that looks edible on the hook. I’ve caught a lot of chub and barbel on pleasure sessions with this tactic, using one or two artificial maggots. Bear in mind that artificial baits are banned in matches but allowed in pleasure sessions.
RIG PROBLEMS
Q) I keep getting tangles when I use Bolo or Avon floats. I use three or four shots below the olivette but it’s frustrating, as the line ends up in a bird’s nest as often as not! What am I doing wrong?
A) You need to change your shotting pattern for starters. Just use an olivette 2ft from the hook with one dropper fixed 10ins above the hook and it wont tangle.
If it’s windy, always cast off the side that the wind is blowing to, as this, too, will eliminate tangles.
BEST PERCH BAITS?
Q) I fancy doing some river perch fishing before the season ends. What baits should I use?
A) Perch are greedy fish and they will eat all livebaits, but for best results use chunks of lobworm or even a whole one. Perch love them!
CANE OR HOLLOW TIPS?
Q) Am I better using painted cane or hollow tips on my Bolo floats? I always thought that cane was supposed to be the best.
A) I used to use painted cane tips, but don’t carry any now. Hollow tips are the best, as you can see them so much better, especially if there is any sun on the water.
WILL I CATCH BARBEL?
Q) I’ve been following water temperatures on the River Severn matches Facebook page and it’s been between 4°C and 5°C recently. Will I be able to catch barbel with it as low as this?
A) While not impossible, I think you could be in for a struggle trying to catch barbel until the water warms up. You’d be better off targeting chub while it stays cold, and going for barbel when it’s up to at least 8°C.
SPECI WAGG OR TRUNCHEON?
Q) I fish a lot of fast-flowing rivers but I’m confused about waggler choice. Should I use a Speci or Truncheon design?
A) If your swim is fast and shallow (3ft to 4ft) you should use a Speci Waggler, as the short design is perfect for these depths.
If your swim is over 4ft and up to around 8ft deep the Truncheon Waggler is better because it is longer and easier to control, especially if it’s windy.
SHOULD I TRY TARES?
Q) I love catching big roach and had a lot of success with seed baits in the summer. Is it worth using tares on the hook in the winter?
A) I, too, love big roach and have caught loads on tares in the summer months but not in winter. I think you’re better off using maggots or casters when the temperature is down.
WHY SOIL?
Q) I’ve noticed that you use a lot of soil in your groundbait mixes. Why is this?
A) I’ve used soil in my groundbait for many years. It gives the mix weight, which is important if the river is flowing quickly. I add about three pints of soil to two 1.5kg bags of groundbait.
Barbel fishing tips | Top barbel tips to get you started
Barbel fishing has really grown in popularity in recent seasons so if you’re just starting out on your barbel fishing adventure then you’ll want to look at these great tips from Drennan Cup winner Dai Gribble who has landed many specimen sized barbel over the years. He’s got you covered and with the help of these great tips you’ll be able to catch a barbel next time you are out on the bank.
1) getting the right FEEDER MIX for barbel
There’s no doubt that pellets are a very effective bait for barbel, and my feeder mix reflects this.
You’re looking to create a potent-smelling mix which can draw fish into your swim, and one that will keep them there for the maximum amount of time.
I use Sonubaits Barbel Pellets mixed with Hemp and Hali Crush groundbait – both of which have been purposely designed for river barbel fishing – and I will mix them in a ratio of around one part pellets to three parts Hemp and Hali Crush.
Small particles are best for keeping fish in your swim for longer and I like to use a range of sizes of pellet from 2mm up to 6mm so the fish don’t get preoccupied with one size of bait.
The pellets will slowly get washed downstream by the current, creating a bed of bait, while the finer particles of the groundbait will be washed further downstream, giving off a trail of attraction which will draw fish up towards the bed of pellets.
2) The perfect barbel Hookbait
For big-river barbel I use pre-drilled 6mm or 8mm Sonubaits Pellet-O’s and attach them with a Korum pellet stop which pulls back slightly into the pellet.
This needs to be taken into account to ensure the hair is the right length – always tie the hair a little shorter than you think you’ll need, because the pellet stop will extend it.
I find the easiest way to get it right is attach a pellet to the hair before tying the knotless knot, as this will ensure the hair is exactly the correct length.
I like to take a selection of hookbait flavours and colours with me to the bank, as this allows me to experiment during the course of a session.
In terms of flavours, I’ve caught particularly well on crab, halibut and krill-flavoured pellets.
A great trick to try is to glug your pellet hookbaits in Pellet Oil. This toughens them up, and that way they’ll last longer on the hair.
3) The best Tackle for barbel
I like a 12ft rod, as it helps keep the line out of the flow ands hold the feeder in position.
A freespool reel, set correctly, eliminates the risk of a barbel pulling a rod into the water.
Most times I prefer a single rod but if bites are hard to come by I’ll fish a second on the same line, a few yards further downstream. I fish it with a straight lead rather than a feeder, as I don’t want spread bait around the swim, preferring to stick with one baited area.
Plenty of bait will be carried past this downstream rod and the hope is that it will pick up fish reluctant to move over the main baited area.
Want more barbel fishing tips?
Hungry for more tips about barbel? Then make sure you check out our barbel species page, which has tips from loads of professional anglers to help you catch more next time you’re on the bank. Click here to see more tips.
Fishing Near Me | Where to catch barbel?
Don’t know where to go fishing for barbel? Then don’t panic as we’ve got you covered with our Fishing Near Me page, we’ve got loads of venue listicles on every species so you’re guaranteed to find somewhere to fish. Click here to see more
bag up on the speci waggler
The first few weeks of a new river season will always see me taking in a few chub and barbel sessions on shallow stretches with plenty of pace and oxygenated water.
Most anglers who fish such swims tend to go for static baits in conjunction with a swimfeeder or straight lead. This is fine if the river is carrying colour, but when it’s running clear there’s a much better way to catch a big weight.
I developed Speci Wagglers 18 years ago and three different float patterns have equally important parts to play over the course of a river season. The key factor to float selection is depth and pace, so this week we’re looking at how you should use them.
No1 SPECI WAGGLER
This float is available in sizes from 2AAA up to 6AAA. It’s constructed from carefully graded balsa a bit thicker than the thickest peacock quill. It’s more buoyant than peacock and perfect for swiftly flowing, smooth water swims where you might want to trip your hookbait along the riverbed as well as off bottom.
I normally use 4lb or 5lb Pro Float mainlines and 0.12mm (4.2lb) or 0.14mm (5.3lb) Pro Rig hooklengths tied to size 18, 16 or 14 medium wire hooks. Most of the shot capacity is used to lock the float on to the line, then I position a No8 shot down the line for every 2ft of depth. A typical 6ft-deep swim would therefore only require three No8s, with the bottom one around 1ft up from the hook.
No2 SPECI WAGGLER
This pattern is available in sizes from 2AAA to 5SSG and, as you can see from the picture, it’s the next step up from the No1 model in terms of thickness. It comes into its own in faster water where you want more buoyancy.
For this one, I use 5lb or 6lb Pro Float mainlines and 0.14mm (5.3lb) or 0.16mm (6.4lb) Pro Rig hooklengths tied to strong size 16 or 14 hooks.
No3 SPECI WAGGLER
This is the thickest of the Speci Waggler family and is available in sizes from 2SSG to 6SSG. I use this one in very fast, boily water and it’s not uncommon to run it between 20 and 40 yards down the river.
Main lines for this float are 7lb or 8lb Pro Float, used in conjunction with 0.18mm (7.0lb) or 0.20mm (8.4lb) Pro Rig hooklengths tied to strong size 12 or 10 hooks.
CASTING AND CONTROL
Always cast downstream before running the float through the swim. If you’re face on to the river, imagine a clockface and cast to the two o’clock position. This will ensure that the line is at the right angle to start with and easy to mend, to stop any drag pulling the float which affects presentation. I can’t stress enough how important a naturally floating line is for this.
BAIT AND FEEDING
My bait bag for these early-season swims would contain two or three pints of casters, the same of hemp and the same of maggots.
I would also have a selection of 4mm and 6mm Bait-Tech Carp Pellets. Over a five-hour competition I would normally feed all baits, little and often to start with, increasing the amount if fish were responding well.
Try different feed routines. A good starting routine would be to feed first then cast, feed again halfway down the run and then again at the end of the run.
Experiment with measures until you’re getting bites on a regular basis, but be prepared to wait a while until the fish find and switch on to the bait trail.
Hookbait is two to five maggots or a banded 8mm carp pellet.
The best feeders for barbel fishing
On big rivers such as the Severn, Wye and Trent every swim is different, so a selection of feeders is important. A number of factors decide me on which feeder to use in any given swim. First, how much bait do I want to introduce?
I generally start with a large feeder for the first hour and cast every 15 minutes or so to lay a bed of bait down. If bites come I’ll stick with a large feeder – if not I will switch to a smaller one and recast every half-hour.
In fast-flowing swims I like to use a traditional style of feeder with holes, but in slower swims a mesh-type feeder can be a better option, as it releases its contents more easily.
The weight of the feeder is determined by the depth, flow, and distance across the river I am casting.
Generally the deeper, the faster flowing the river and the further across I am casting, the heavier the feeder needs to be to hold bottom. I aim to get the feeder to quickly hold in one place after it has settled after casting.
Open-End feeder
A traditional open-end feeder offers a slower release, as the water cannot get to the bait so quickly. This can be really useful in deeper water or very fast flows.
Mesh feeders
Mesh feeders will release bait quicker and activate a swim sooner than other kinds of feeder. The cage-like structure allows water to start breaking down your mix quickly.
Combi feeder
A Combi, or blockend, feeder really slows down the release of bait because the ends are closed. It’s preferred when maggot fishing, but is also useful with a standard pellet mix.
River feeder
This special Korum river feeder has been designed so you can use less weight in faster flows. The low profile stays pinned to the riverbed and is unobtrusive to big barbel.
Barbel fishing tips | Where to find the
Barbel fishing can be difficult at times but knowing where to find them will certainly help in your expedition to land a monster. We’ve put together some top barbel tips to help you find them on your local river.
It sounds obvious, but barbel are not spread evenly throughout a river, so before casting out it pays to take a little time to not only pick the right stretches, but also the right parts of the river to help narrow the odds in your favour.
Here are some top barbel hotspots to check out next time you are out on the bank.
A) Speedy shallows
Barbel have evolved to live in fast-flowing rivers and are perfectly adapted to fast currents, especially in low, clear water conditions.
Look for streamy, shallow water in the summer and don’t be put off by a depth as little as 50cm. If there’s cover provided by either weed or overhanging trees, so much the better, as that’s where you’ll find the fish.
B) Look for faster water
At this time of year it’s all about fishing the faster water. Barbel are designed to swim in fast currents with very little effort as long as it’s well oxygenated, so areas near weirs are worth targeting.
Some anglers make the mistake of fishing deep holes and slack areas in summer. These are easy to locate and fish, but they’re often bereft of barbel.
These same areas can be good on high, flowing rivers in the colder months, so make a note of them for later in the year.
C) Target weeds and gravel patches
Fishing between weedbeds is always a good idea, as the fish can sit in there without expending much effort and still get all the oxygen they need, picking off opportunist food items as they flow past them.
Barbel also like looking for food on gravelly areas and you can usually find them feeding on the cleaner gravel patches. In fact, some of these patches are clear because the fish regularly feed over them!
D) Find the creases
Swims with different depths are also very likely to hold barbel, as are “creases” in the river, where the faster flowing water passes water moving at a slower pace.
A crease is where the river looks creased, like a piece of paper – you should cast just into the faster water, so any fish in the slower area can drift over your bait.
Don’t follow the crowds
A tale from last season illustrates how not following the crowd can pay dividends. I arrived at the River Wye and spoke to four different anglers who were all struggling to catch and had convinced themselves the barbel were simply not feeding.
These men had one thing in common – each of them was set up where the grass had been worn away, a sure sign these swims had been heavily pressured over a long period.
I decided to walk a bit further from the car park than they were fishing and beat down nettles and Himalyan balsam to get to the side of the river in a swim that clearly had not been fished for months.
I could see a nice channel between weed beds and cast a feeder in. Less than five minutes later I was in business.
In three short visits to the swim that evening and the following day I landed 20 barbel – not bad considering ‘they’re not feeding’!
Be prepared to move
Another good habit if you don’t catch within an hour or two is to get up and go somewhere else – don’t stick in one place simply because you’ve put some bait in.
It’s far better to try a different swim – you can always return to try again later in the original spot.
With barbel fishing, effort usually equals reward, and it is worth the effort to move in the hope of finding fish. Generally, barbel are not that difficult to catch – as long as you have them in your swim, of course!
Moving swims is made much easier if you make a point of being organised with your tackle. I try not to take too many items of tackle, preferring to use a large Korum ruckbag that I can load according to the length of my session.
To this, I clip my chair and unhooking mat, leaving my hands free for a pair of rods or quiver, and a bucket of bait. On a shorter session I can even fit my bait bucket inside the ruckbag.
WANT MORE BARBEL FISHING TIPS?
Hungry for more tips about barbel? Then make sure you check out our barbel species page, which has tips from loads of professional anglers to help you catch more next time you’re on the bank. Click here to see more tips.
FISHING NEAR ME | WHERE TO CATCH BARBEL?
Don’t know where to go fishing for barbel? Then don’t panic as we’ve got you covered with our Fishing Near Me page, we’ve got loads of venue listicles on every species so you’re guaranteed to find somewhere to fish. Click here to see more
50 Amazing river fishing tips
I don’t know about you, but for me the closed season has really dragged on this time and I can’t wait to get back on running water again!
We’ve had a decent amount of rain over the past few weeks and this has put some much-needed colour and pace back in the rivers. They’re looking good for the start.
Over the course of the season ahead I’ll be visiting loads of different waters.
Some I already know, but I always enjoy going to new places too and we’ve got some great venues lined up for features.
I hope you enjoy readingthem as much as I’m looking forward to doing them.
To get the new series started here are 50 ideas, tips and tactics that you might like to try once the season gets underway.
Over the next few weeks we’ll be looking in depth at how to put bigger catches together using a variety of different approaches.
HOLD ON TIGHT!
Barbel are probably the most exciting river fish to catch. Most people just use a static bait with a feeder or leger rig but it’s more exciting to catch them on float gear, especially in fast water!
DON’T IGNORE MAGGOTS
Maggots are not fashionable with a lot of anglers these days but fish still love them! I never leave home without some.
get comfortable
River banks are seldom as level or manicured as those on commercials. So make sure your box platform is level and that everything is easily to hand before you start fishing.
DOT IT DOWN
Roach and dace require delicate presentation. Shotting your float so that just the merest dimple is showing is often necessary to hit shy bites.
FEED TO RESPONSE
On venues where small fish aren’t so plentiful, always feed to response. If you’re not getting many bites, ease up.
TARGET STRIPEYS!
Loads of venues hold big perch now. Pole fished worms will sort out the big boys!
GO LONG
Pole fishing keeps everything tight and precise. You’re always back in the same spot, and careful feeding can bring big rewards in terms of regular bites!
FISH LIGHT!
To catch roach, you often need to fish ultra-light with 0.08mm hooklengths.
It can mean the difference between catching and not.
ASK QUESTIONS
If other anglers are catching more than you are, don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Most people will be happy to help you.
WATCH A MATCH
This can be a fast track to learn about a venue. You’ll quickly learn about approaches and tactics by watching good anglers doing their stuff.
FISH A MATCH
If you’ve often fancied it but never done it, make this season the one to fish your first match. Your first pick-up will feel fantastic!
BUY A FRIDGE
Maggots can be expensive, especially when you need a lot, so don’t waste them. Invest in an old fridge (or two, like me) and always ensure your bait is chilled right down.
TURN OLD MAGGOTS
Old maggots kept in damp sawdust will turn into casters within a few days in the summer months. You’ll need a couple of good riddles to keep running the bait through.
PLAN AHEAD
I’d be lost without my wall planner. I use it more than a diary now and it really helps me to plan my season ahead. Well worth investing in a new one every year!
FEED PLENTY!
Many of our rivers now have loads of small fish in them and you often need to feed a lot of bait in order to attract bigger fish in. Bulk your bait out with 4mm carp pellets if it’s a problem for you.
Buy A BARROW
I’d be lost without my platform barrow. I use it on all sort of venues and often carry far too much gear with me, just because I can!
TRY NEW VENUES
Make the coming season a more interesting one by trying different venues out. New places offer new challenges!
Tail eXPERIMENT
On certain days a 5ft tail can catch you fish when a 3ft one won’t. Always experiment!
PUT A LOBBY ON!
Lobworms are brilliant for all fish when the water is coloured. Use them whole or in segments.
TRY MEAT
Fish such as barbel and chub love smelly luncheon meat. It’s a bait that too many anglers now ignore.
FISH STRONG!
Where big fish are the quarry, make sure your lines are up to the job. There’s no point hooking big fish if you’re going to lose them!
TRY A SPECI WAGG
If you fish venues where there is fast, shallow water, you will catch more fish on a Speci Waggler than any other rig!
GO SHALLOW
Too many anglers ignore the upper layers when waggler fishing in deep water – a big mistake if the fish are coming up to intercept the feed.
REDFIN HEAVEN!
Roach are my favourite species of all time. I’ll be heading to some favourite early season stretches with hemp and tares as my main bait choices.
TRY CARP PELLETS
I’ve had loads of success with these. I feed 4mm and 6mm and use an 8mm pellet on the hook.
SPLADOOSH!
Swimfeeders can account for some huge bags of fish in the summer, so don’t ignore this tactic if your river of choice is carrying colour.
HAPPY DACE!
Find some fast, shallow water and there’s a very good chance you’ll find a lot of dace as well. There has been an explosion of these fish in recent seasons on big rivers like the Severn.
BOMBS AWAY!
There are times when a straight leger rig with a bomb can outscore a feeder, especially when there are a lot of bream in front of you.
Use A TRUNCHEON
Like Speci Wagglers, Truncheons are very buoyant and work best in fast water where you need a longer float.
LAY A TRAP
Always give yourself somewhere to go if your main line of attack slows down. This might mean feeding big baits somewhere different.
SMALL BLOCKS OF TIME
Split your sessions into 10- and 15-minute intervals. Try different things in these periods until you discover how the fish want the bait presented.
TRY KRILL PELLETS
This is great bait for river barbel when the water is coloured. Use 4mm offerings in
a feeder with an 8mm pellet on the hook.
KEEP IT ON TOP!
For good presentation with float gear you must use a floating line. I use Pro Float in breaking strains from 3lb to 8lb.
GET IT SUNK
For swimfeeder and sunken line floatfishing on slow rivers I use Pro Feeder line in 3lb to 14lb breaking strains.
Hooklength choice
For hooklengths I always use Pro Rig in diameters from 0.08mm to 0.26mm.
IN-LINE OLIVETTES
For big-fish rigs I use
lines from 0.16mm to 0.22mm and In-Line Olivettes from 1g to 10g.
STOCK UP ON SHOT
Too many anglers go fishing with insufficient shot. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve seen this happen. No excuses, you just need to stock up!
JOIN A CLUB
Club fishing can be a great way to learn, as well as forging new friendships. Your local tackle shop should be able to put you in the right direction in terms of who to contact.
TRY WORMS
All fish love worms, so make sure you carry at least half-a-kilo of dendrobaenas with you to every river session.
ON-LINE OLIVETTES
For fine mainlines of 0.12mm and 0.14mm I always use On-Line Olivettes from 0.60g to 6g. These are locked on to the line with silicone rubber and are easy to move without line damage.
USE A CATTY!
If you need to get your feed out a long way, always make sure you have a few catapults and spare elastics with you.
GO FOR CHUB!
Like barbel, chub love pacey water in the summer months. You can catch them on all sorts of baits, but float tactics work best for big weights.
TRY AN AVON
A great float for pacey rivers with good depth close in. Use with an In-Line Olivette and 5lb to 6lb mainlines.
BABY BOLO!
There was a time when Bolo fishing was all about big floats, but not any more. They now go down to just 1g for swims 5ft to 6ft deep.
BALL IT in!
Several big balls of groundbait at the start of a session can draw a lot of fish into your swim quickly!
DISH THE DIRT
Soil is a great addition to groundbait when you need to get it down quickly. I always have some with me for river sessions.
new spopper gadget nails bigger barbel
Keeping barbel in your swim on a big river can be a tough game to play – but this unique feeding device will ensure they stay rooted to your spot time after time.
The sinking Spomb, also known as the Spopper, is the brainchild of entrepreneur Christophe Pelhate, and is an adaptation of the popular feeding device commonly used in carp fishing.
Its weighted head and pin release system is unique in that it allows the Spomb to sink to the bottom of your swim and deposit your bait accurately – even if you’re fishing at distance and into really deep water.
Chris has already sold 250 prototypes and drawn interest from Dai Gribble, Phil Smith and Des Taylor – all of whom have seen their catch rates increase with the help of the Spopper.
Chris told Angling Times: “It’s a game changer. You simply can’t cast a bait dropper as far as you can the Spopper.
“As it’s an adapted Spomb the device is already aerodynamic and casting accuracy is improved with the weight, but it’s also hydrodynamic – it will sink quickly through the water and release the payload with incredible accuracy.”
The Spopper has been so successful that the team at Spomb are now in the process of making their own version which will be hitting to the shelves soon – but for the time being, Angling Times joined up with Chris and top River Trent angler Brett Longhorne to put the Spopper through its paces.
Prototypes of the Spopper are available from SFUK but there is a waiting list. For more information please call 02476 239 650 or visit
On the Button
To demonstrate the prowess of the Spopper we met at the famous peg 1A at Collingham Weir on the Trent, where Brett was waiting to introduce his first drop of feed.
In a bucket he had a mixture of sloppy groundbait, hemp, chopped boilies and pellets, and this moulded into the dome-like cups of the Spopper perfectly.
He then closed the two domes together and pressed the pin system back through the hole in the plastic – it was ready for casting. Using a heavy-duty spod rod and a reel loaded with braid, Brett cast the Spopper out into the main flow and within seconds the device sank, hit the clean gravel on the deck and released its contents.
In the space of five minutes Brett had laid down 10 payloads of bait and each hit its mark, leaving him confident in the knowledge his bait was being deposited in a specific area and not being washed away downstream.
Over this feed he fished two rods – one with groundbait and maggots in a feeder and the other with pellets.
The results spoke for themselves as bites came thick and fast and barbel between 4lb and 12lb fell to his hookbaits placed over a big bed of feed at distance.
Chris concluded: “The proof is in the pudding. There’s just no way you can accurately introduce that much feed at that distance with a catapult, a throwing stick or a bait dropper.
“The bonus is that the Spopper can be used on lakes, in the sea, indeed any body of water with a hard bottom.”
1) Cast a 2oz-3oz lead around your swim to find areas of clean gravel or deeper holes where the barbel may be holding up. Use measuring sticks so you can clip your rods up to the same distance.
2) The Spopper is heavy when filled with bait, so a strong spod rod is needed to cast it. Couple this with a big pit reel loaded with 50lb braid and you’re good to go.
3) Press down on the pin to open the Spopper and begin loading it with your feed.
4) Close the two domes and pull the pin back through the hole to lock the Spopper. It is now ready to cast.
5) Use appropriate force for the distance you are casting. Before the Spopper hits its mark, pull the rod up sharply and this will create a slack line. This will help the Spopper sink vertically to the bottom.
How to deal with barbel bites with Tommy Pickering
There is no bigger thrill than catching big fish such as barbel on the feeder when on a river.
As you would expect from such lumps, the bites can be savage and if you present your rig incorrectly you could be snapped up. Feeding a bow into your line provides a cushion that helps stop such disasters occurring, and this week I show you how to do it.
1) Cast out slightly downstream, and once the feeder has hit the water, keep the rod high until you feel the feeder make contact with the river bed. With practice this is easy to detect.
2) Once the feeder has landed, allow 4m-5m of line to peel off the reel, keeping the bail-arm open. Line will run downstream with the flow, and once you close the bail-arm the bow will tighten up.
3) If the rod-tip starts to bounce, release another metre of line to make the bow slightly bigger. If it continues to happen, a slightly heavier feeder is needed to hold bottom properly.
4) Bites usually develop as a small tap followed by a drop-back. The feeder is dislodged and the fish is hooked. Without a bow the rod tip would be ripped round and the fish could be lost.
Top 10 river fishing tips with Dave Harrell
This season I think we’ll be in for some very good fishing, now that most of our rivers have received a welcome flush through of water. If you’ve not been on a river for a while, why not do yourself a favour and get out there? I think you might well be pleasantly surprised at what’s on offer. Here are a few ideas to point you in the right direction…
1) Target barbel
Over the next few months I’ll be setting some days aside to go on the Trent, Severn and Wye, and I’m hoping to beat my personal best fish of 13lb 12oz which fell to feeder-fished halibut pellets. I’ve had float-caught specimens to 12lb-plus, so fingers crossed I’ll have a new personal best soon!
2) Target bream
Bream shoal up at this time of the year and if you drop on them you could be in for a bonanza of a day!
The very best way is with an open-end groundbait feeder and worms.
Keep the feeder going in regularly every few minutes for the first hour then leave it in a bit longer as each hour goes by. I normally start with a 3ft tail, then shorten if I’m getting a lot of bites, or lengthen it by a foot or two if not many bites are forthcoming.
3) Target perch
We’re entering a period of the season now that is possibly the best time for big perch. All rivers seem to now hold good stocks of these fish, and there are some specimen-sized lumps there for the taking.
My favourite way to catch them is with pole gear and a lobworm on the hook. Feed the swim with a bait dropper filled with chopped worm
and caster.
4) Try a pole
A long pole gives you perfect presentation and puts you back in the same place every time. Used in conjunction with hollow elastics, it’s possible to land very big fish on one too.
This season I’ve had barbel to nearly 10lb on pole gear, and while I’m not advocating that everyone switches to a pole for that species, it does go to show what is achievable.
5) Target chub
At this time of year, try floatfishing for chub off the bottom with waggler gear.
I’ve had loads of big weights in autumn by fishing 4ft to 6ft deep with just a couple of No8 shot down the line and using single or double maggot on the hook.
Remember, though, you have to keep the feed going in regularly and make sure that your hookbait is dropping through the feed.
6) Use bigger floats
To conquer the flow you might need to fish quite heavy sticks, Bolos and wagglers. A 6g or 8g float should be used with at least a 4lb mainline, possibly even heavier if there are a lot of big fish in the swim.
7) Target roach
Good nets of roach are being caught all over the country at present. You can target them in so many ways, but the best way to my mind is with float gear.
Seed baits have been working well lately, but with lowering air and water temperatures I’d recommend you put your faith in maggots and casters over the next couple of months.
8) Check river levels
There’s nothing worse than turning up at a river only to find it high and coloured.
You can aviod this by visiting the Environment Agency website. Enter the river and area you intend to fish and the latest levels will be revealed. Here’s the link: https://flood-warning-information.service.gov.uk/river-and-sea-levels
9) Try a whip
With a long whip you know you are fishing in the same spot every run down. Keep the feed going in and you can end up with a lot of fish in front of you that are fairly easy to catch. I elasticate my tips with hollow elastic, providing a buffer against snap-offs if you hook a big fish.
10) Try different baits
We can all get set in our ways when it comes to baits, but one thing I have noticed over the past few years is that maggots and casters in the feeder seem to catch a lot more barbel and chub than pellets.
You’ll need to fish a river that is fairly clear to achieve the best results with these baits, but they’re well worth trying if you’re struggling to catch on pellets.
Top 5 river fishing tips for running water
1) Carp: Don’t be afraid to fish big baits. Smaller fish like bream and chub will take boilies so if your specifically targeting this species try two 20mm boilies.
2) Chub: If you’re hair-rigging your bait don’t tie it too long. Chub are notoriously finicky and fishing a short hair will maximise your chances of hooking one.
3) Roach: Look for the slack areas in the river as this is where they love to hang out.
Try hemp and casters either in the feeder or in conjunction with a stickfloat.
4) Bream: Use a sticky groundbait mix especially in a powerful river such as the Trent because it’s surprising how quickly your mix will break up and carry your bait downstream.
5) Barbel: So many anglers use boilies and pellets for them these days so those who mix it up as regards to bait often reap the rewards. Try meat or even worms as it could be something the barbel in your river haven’t seen in ages.
How to catch barbel on lures
Getting bored of using meat and pellets to help you catch your barbel well Sam Edmonds has got an interesting new tactic which is turning up some surprising results. Check out his new tactic below.
When I first started lure fishing I never believed it was possible to catch a barbel on a lure. That all changed when I was fishing the Warwickshire Avon with my father and Dr Paul Garner, and Dad caught one on a jigged twintail lure.
To say we were surprised was an understatement, but the more we thought about it the more it made sense. Why wouldn’t they take a softbait which resembles a small crayfish or an aquatic insect? That’s what they eat naturally!
Since then, I’ve learnt a lot about targeting barbel with soft plastics. I’m not saying it’s the easiest way to catch a barbel, but tricking one into taking a lure is a very exciting experience indeed.
The right conditions
Since the start of the season I’ve been making the most of the weather, which has been perfect for stalking chub and barbel. The crystal-clear rivers and sunshine help you spot the fish.
Stalking any fish is exciting, and the cast is the make-or-break moment that determines whether you hook or spook one.
Choosing the right moment to cast is important, because the lure needs to land inches in front of the barbel’s nose.
This may require waiting a while for a fish to move into a position where you’re able to cast a lure just in front of it.
If you can get the cast right, watching a barbel pounce on your lure as it hits the bottom is an awesome sight. I’m amazed at how eager they can be to chase down a lure, often beating chub to it.
Rig up safely
The gear I use is a light but powerful spinning rod of around 7ft that can cast up to 18g (5/8oz), paired with a 2000–2500 sized front drag reel.
It’s important that this is spooled up with a good-quality braid that is strong enough to bully a fish out from reeds, streamer weed and snags, but also has a fine diameter, making it easy to cast tiny weights accurately – I’ve been using either 15lb or 20lb.
A small swivel connects the braid to a fluoro leader of 12lb-15lb, which is about 16ins long.
This then tied to the lure, a small creature bait around 1ins-2ins long, rigged on to a jighead.
Which baits to try
A soft bait that has worked very well for me has been the Berkley Power Nymph, which looks like a cross between a baby crayfish and a nymph. Small curltails, twintails and grubs are also worth a try, and I opt for natural colours.
When it comes to jigheads, I’ve been using 2g, which has been a good weight for getting down to the bottom and also makes the appendages of the creature bait kick into action.
If the current were stronger I’d consider stepping up to 3g or more. The 2g jigheads I’ve been using have a strong size 6 or 8 hook, which is perfect for rigging on creature baits.
40 of the best river fishing tips
Do you want more bites from your local river? Then you may want to give this, list of the 40 best river fishing tips a read. As it will most likely increase your chances of catching next time you are out on the bank, fishing your local river or stream. These 40 fishing tips for the rivers are guaranteed to help you outwit your target species and hopefully land yourself a new PB.
1
Barbel have a reputation for giving savage bites but that isn’t how every indication will pan out. On heavily pressured waters the fish are more cautious when feeding and the slightest knock on the rod tip could indicate a big fish has tentatively picked up the hookbait.
2
Locating features is crucial when tracking down river carp. Everything from bridges to overhanging bushes are worth a look because these can trap food and form natural larders.
3
Prebaiting is key when targeting carp on running water. They can travel large distances in a short time so introduce bait on a regular basis in the run up to your session.
4
Where the fish feed in the column dictates how you feed for roach. If fish are up in the water catapult maggots and casters. If they are on the deck, feed these baits inside balls of groundbait to get them to the bottom.
5
If breambites suddenly stop the shoal may have backed off the main feed. Chuck a couple of feet further to relocate fish.
6
Keep the bait still when bream fishing. When pole fishing on a pacey river, this can mean fishing as much as a foot overdepth.
7
Use a bulk of shot and droppers to fish maggot or pinkie over groundbait for roach, switching to a strung out pattern with hemp.
8
Fenland drains are home to giant rudd in a handful of swims. Walk the banks of your local stretch wearing polarised sunglasses as they will often give themselves away by feeding on insects.
9
Take several pints of maggots when chub fishing. Constant feeding is vital – even if you are not getting bites. The rain of bait falling through the water will eventually tease chub into feeding.
10
Float fished livebaits are deadly for big perch. Constantly feed maggots over the top to draw in even more bait fish and a potential personal best won’t be far away.
11
Weather will play a huge part in whether you will have success with river bream. Warm and overcast is ideal but avoid bright sunshine and little cloud cover.
12
Groundbait is rarely used for predators but a few balls of fishmeal groundbait laced with chopped up pieces of fish can give you an edge when sport is slow.
13
Alloy stick floats are buoyant and best in turbulent water, glass is lightweight and will give a really slow fall of the hookbait and a shouldered lignum is easily lifted to move hookbait.
14
Chub feed in pretty much any conditions but in coloured water you will need a smelly bait to draw the fish in. Halibut pellets and paste work well but cheesepaste is the ultimate bait.
15
Rivers will run clear after long periods without rain and this is when bread starts to work well. Fill a feeder with liquidised bread and hook a large flake for chub and quality roach.
16
Big chub will always seek cover but the best features are not always the ones that you can see at first glance. Undercut banks are magnets for these finicky specimens. While taking great care, lay on the bank at a likely spot and place your hand into the water and feel whether the bank is undercut.
17
Roach bites can be hard to hit but keeping a tight line between pole tip and float willimprove your conversion rate. Add a No.8 backshot between tip and float to guarantee a tight line.
18
If you get a run of bites on a feeder but the action suddenly stops it can pay to have a few chucks on a bomb rig. Making the simple switch could encourage them to feed confidently.
19
If you are on a huge shoal of silverfish it is important to concentrate them in one zone. Fish one swim or you will split the shoal and that will lead to fewer bites and a smaller stamp of fish.
20
A wobbled deadbait can fool pike but it is important how you retrieve it. Reel it in slowly, jerking the rod from time to time, and this will imitate injured fish that the pike often feast upon.
21
Worms, maggots and casters are often the first port of call for bream but these can lead to a plague of small roach and perch. Use 14mm or 16mm boilies to deter the tiddlers.
22
The area between fast and slow water is the crease. Trot a stick float feeding maggots.
23
Chub on some days may want tiny baits. swap paste or pellets for one or two maggots.
24
For bigger roach and chub use a loaded waggler with no shot for a slow hookbait fall.
25
Big barbel can be finicky and the slightest mistake could send a potential pb packing. To prevent them detecting a rig, pin the mainline to the deck by using back leads.
26
River carp aren’t heavily pressured so use simple set-ups and strong hooklinks.
27
Lures are deadly for perch. A shallow-diving pattern with neutral buoyancy is best now.
28
Feed via a catapult for roach and drop the odd pouch short. If you miss a bite, run float over it.
29
Groundbait is a real winner for bream but the type of mix you use needs careful consideration. Make sure that it is high in fishmeal and always mix it so that it is fairly heavy and sticky. This will make sure it doesn’t get washed out the swim by the current.
30
Use a 14ft rod for the stick so you can keep in touch with float and work the swim.
31
A tiny hook isn’t critical for big roach. The most important thing is that the point is showing.
32
Log pike sessions, noting weather, wind direction and time of catches, to see trends.
33
Heavily pressured swims very rarely hold quality chub so it is best to head off the beaten track to find a new personal best. Walking to spots that are well away from car parks and access areas is often the best way to find these elusive lumps.
34
River barbel stocks are growing but aim for well oxygenated fast water such as weir pools.
35
When looking for big perch locating a shoal of fry should be a priority. Predators will be close.
36
Look for areas of river where the water widens a little when fishing for bream. The species tend to sit in deep and wider areas of water, well away from any weed or cover.
37
Enhance luncheon meat with a pungent flavour such as chilli powder or garlic salt for barbel.
38
Quick after-work sessions are often ideal for chub as this is the time of day when they feed most confidently. The water will have been exposed to sunlight all day so it will be at its warmest, triggering the fish to search for food to maintain their energy levels.
39
The hooklink can be the difference between success and failure. Start with a 3ft link and vary it. If you are getting lots of taps but no proper bites, reduce it by a foot as fish are feeding closer to the feeder. If there are no bites, lengthen it as fish could be sat just off your zone.
40
Prebaiting will get fish into a swim. Small pellets, hemp and casters keep them there.
20 fishing tips that will help you think more like a fish
Martin bowler walks us through his top 20 summer fishing tips to help you get to know your quarry and think more like a fish to help you catch more when on the bank. Some of the tips I offer here are quite basic, while others require you to think outside the box and put yourself in the place of the fish...
Polarised sunglasses
Buy yourself a good quality pair of polarised glasses to assist you with fish location. In bright conditions grey is best, if it’s dull go for yellow, while the top all-round colour is brown. Finding your quarry is the most important aspect of angling, in fact more so than any tip, bait or rig.
If you want to grab yourself a pair of polarised sunglasses then check out our buyers guide here
Get up early
Either arrive just before daybreak or sit outside your bivvy at the best time to see any fish showing. Finding the location of your quarry is much easier at dawn when fish rolling or jumping, or bubbles breaking the surface, are likely to give their presence away.
Assess the water
You can only catch what’s in front of you. Specimen fish don’t live in every venue, so be clinical with your assessments. In my experience angling myths very rarely become reality. They are just that – myths!
Pick the battles you can win!
Assess the venue’s potential against angling pressure. If time is limited, one with fewer big fish but receiving less angling pressure can be the better option.
Know your species
Try to understand your quarry, because every species of fish behaves differently. For example, carp don’t like disturbance and so I leave my baits in place at daybreak. Tench, however, are much more likely to investigate a recast or a fresh bout of spombing, so I always carry out these tasks at dawn.
Look to the sea
Take a carp rod with you on your coastal holiday. Bream, bass, pollack and wrasse are all catchable on lures or bait for minimal additional outlay.
Hire a skipper
Book a charter boat to go sea fishing this summer but realise, as with any other form of fishing, that there are good, bad and indifferent anglers or, in this case, skippers. Use social media to investigate a boat’s potential, find a good one and it will be a great day out.
Use fishmeal
In summer, when the fish are still recovering from spawning, most species adore fishmeal and its high oil content. Be it pellet, boilie or groundbait you won’t go too far wrong with this food source.
Lure them out on the feeder
Give the Method feeder a go for barbel. It’s a great way of baiting the swim without the need for PVA. Combine this with a short hooklength when they’re feeding aggressively, or go longer if bites prove hard to come by.
Think about the weather
If it rains the the rivers start to rise or colour up in summer, go barbel fishing. such conditions are sure to trigger them into feeding
Take your time
In margins over 12ft deep try a slider float and you will catch more than on the lead. The most crucial aspect of this type of fishing is plumbing up, so take your time to guarantee the hookbait is just kissing the bottom.
Give your groundbait a boost
When preparing groundbait, add any liquids to water used to dampen it, not directly on to the dry mix. This will guarantee even distribution.
Overcome suspicious fish
Wary barbel will look out for your hook when feeding and ignore the attached bait if they spot it. To overcome this in clear water I fish half a boilie on a short hair. The flat side falls over the metalwork like a cup, concealing it from view.
Don't leave it to luck
For a big bag of tench, rake the swim the night before fishing, and prebait. Luck alone is never to be trusted, but effort will pay off.
Visit your local tackle shop
Slightly better deals might be available on the Internet, but who will supply your fresh bait? Nobody knows the local waters better than your local tackle dealer, so give him your custom.
Move around
For summer chub, roaming the river with a gallon of maggots and a trotting set-up takes some beating. Find a shoal and then feed on a ‘little and often’ basis until you see their white mouths working in overdrive. The catching part is very simple by comparison.
Don't forget the roach
River roach populations are on their way back to healthy levels, and weir pools are the place to look for them in summer, when there is extra oxygen in the water. This is especially true at the start of the season.
Go mini
Bread, corn and caster all have their place in roach fishing, but don’t ignore mini boilies and pellets too, even on the rivers. They’re small fish-proof, and roach adore them.
Don't sit still
Don’t just sit there when things are quiet, as you can almost always win a bite. For example, sometimes carp aren’t interested in feeding on the bottom, so why not try a zig rig (above)or a floater? It always pays to have a back-up plan, be it a tactical change or baiting up another spot.
Try something new this summer
From a trout in a reservoir to a mullet in an estuary, most options are open to everyone and relatively cheap to put into action. We are very fortunate to live in a country packed full of angling opportunities, so do make the most of them.
Top 10 fishing tips for catching more on the rivers
With the river season now well underway we thought we would put together a list of the top 10 fishing tips to help you catch more fish on the rivers. With these tips you are guaranteed to get your river fishing season off to a flyer. Check out our list below and let us know what fishing tip you will use on your next session!
Cast down the middle for bream
The habits of bream on rivers don’t alter much in summer from back in the winter – they still prefer deep water, which is almost always found smack down the middle of the river. A tried-and-tested ploy is to cast two-thirds of the way across. If bites fade away, go even farther across to where the river begins to shelve up towards the far-bank shallows.
Walk the banks
Not sure where to fish? Visit at dusk and walk the banks in search of your quarry. Bream and tench will give themselves away by rolling just before it gets dark, and roach will also top regularly – they won’t move far from these spots so you can avoid a lot of disappointment by putting in the miles.
Always pick cover
Try to choose a river swim offering some sort of feature. This could be a reed bed or a tree on the far bank, some lily pads close in, or a moored boat. Whatever it is, fish will live close to it and it will give you another option to fish to during your session, normally with a feeder or waggler cast
Be a slacker
Check out the slacks for roach and chub, where the river’s main flow meets a calmer area. On the edge of this will be something called a ‘crease’, which allows the fish to head into the main current to pick off food that’s been washed down the river before heading back into the quieter water.
Find the fast water
Early-season rivers can suffer from lack of rain, which in turn reduces the rate of flow. On shallow venues, any such swims can be devoid of fish. To stack the odds in your favour, seek out the shallowest swims that will generate faster, oxygenated water. This is what the chub and barbel, in particular.
Seek out the Depths
Early-season rivers can suffer from lack of rain, which in turn reduces the rate of flow. On shallow venues, any such swims can be devoid of fish. To stack the odds in your favour, seek out the shallowest swims that will generate faster, oxygenated water. This is what the chub and barbel, in particular,
Watch the tide
Tidal rivers really come into their own throughout the summer. Although they can be fearsome places, with deep water and a fast flow that can change direction during a session, they will offer brilliant roach and bream sport. To get the best out of them, check a tide table online and combine your visit with a tide that’s ebbing (running out to sea) all day. This will produce the most fish.
Weed equals fish
A pain it may be, but where big fish are concerned, weed is prime real estate. Tench, big perch, eels and even barbel will stick close to the weed for a source of natural food and a bit of sanctuary, so it’s always worth feeding some chopped worm just over the weed to try for a big fish throughout the day.
Bait up for success
Pinning down a bream shoal on a river or big lake can be difficult in a short five-hour session, so do yourself a favour by spending a few evenings prior to fishing putting some bait in. Known as prebaiting, this action gives the fish a few large helpings of bait in advance and will get them into the area early doors. Keep it simple with corn, pellets, hemp and plain brown crumb groundbait.
Go early and late
Blinding sunshine and warm temperatures rarely do the fishing any good, especially if you are after bream and tench on a river or lake. You’re far better off going early or late before the sun gets up, the mercury rises and it’s more productive for you to soak up the rays.
Your guide to fishing a weir pool
If you're looking to catch an abundance of different species on a river this season then you really need to give a weir pool a try.
Weirs are a haven for a number of species thanks to the warm, oxygenated water that’s constantly being flushed through the swim. Food items naturally collect in the basins of weirs too, and there’s plenty of underwater features to create the perfect home for predatory species such as pike, perch and zander.
However, weir pools can be quite daunting for those who have never fished one before, so Angling Times is here to help. Here’s our exclusive overview of these fantastic river structures which will explain where you can expect to find each species and what tactics you can use to catch them, whatever you fish for.
Dace
dace are widespread in weir pools. They, too, thrive in shallow water much like the minnows, and can be found in numbers at the tail end of the weir. A trotted stick float or waggler with bronze maggots will find plenty of bites from these stunning fish – with the odd roach, perch and minnow too.
Roach
Roach can be caught from most areas. In the summer they can shoal up in shallow water over the gravel at the end of the weir, but will also drift into the deep hole created by the main flow. A maggot feeder is hard to beat for a weir pool roach, but watch out for those pike, which love to snap up a hooked roach as you wind it in.
Minnow
Those of you who have fished with maggots or pinkies on a river will have caught plenty of minnows in your time. These tiny fish thrive in shallow water with lots of gravel, and can be found relatively close to the bank at the tail end of a weir. Although regarded as an afterthought to many anglers, those looking to catch a big perch from a weir pool won’t find a better bait than a live minnow.
Chub
chub love gravel swims and can be found in all areas of the weir pool. You’ll find you will catch a lot of chub while fishing for the barbel, but if you want to target them deliberately few things can surpass a large piece of breadflake or a whole lobworm. They will also take small lip-hooked livebaits. Chub won’t venture far from the main flow, so aim your attack here to catch a few.
Bream
A weir pool is a great place for bream to pick up food items that have been washed downstream. They are often found in the deep holes at the bottom of the weir pool. Cast a heavy cage feeder stuffed with groundbait or liquidised bread around 5ft from the weir sill and fish flake, double corn or lobworm on the hook.
Barbel
Barbel fishing on a weir pool has to be up there with the best fishing around. These fish love fast, oxygenated water over gravel. When you’ve leaded around and found solid gravel use a bait dropper to introduce boilies, pellets and particles. Over this fish a bomb with a big pellet or chunk of meat to catch. The undercut directly under the sill of the weir also offers a good refuge for these fish.
Perch
Perch thrive in the snaggy features, as do the juvenile fish they eat! You can find perch under the weir sill, in shallow water and just where the gravel shelf drops off into deeper water. A chubber float with a lobworm is a superb tactic, but maggots will also catch. Big perch can be tempted on spinners, small jigs or lip-hooked livebaits.
Pike
Wherever there’s an abundance of silverfish such as roach or dace the pike won’t be far away. They’ll often skulk at the bottom of the weir pool or on the gravel shelf, from where they can easily ambush their prey. If there are limited snags at the bottom of the weir a legered roach or lamprey section is hard to beat for a pike. Alternatively a spinner or roach-imitation lure will get a reaction.
How to fish a bulk shot float rig on rivers with Dave Harrell
There are days when fishing a float shotted with a group of shot or an olivette close to the hook will catch you a lot more fish than a strung-out, lightly shotted rig. Even in water as shallow as 2ft, a bulk shotted rig can work wonders particualrly for species like chub and barbel.
Years ago, there were very few float choices for these approaches but, in more recent times, there are plenty of choices to suit a large number of situations.
Bolo and Avon style floats are ideal for fishing bulk shot rigs on rivers
All my bulk fishing is based around three types of float patterns, and while there are different designs within these families, the basic approach is the same with a bulk and sometimes (but not always) a drop shot.
I carry a big selection of floats for this sort of work and they range in size from 2g all the way up to a 10g. Add to this equation a mix of thicknesses in the hollow bristles or balsa tops and you will quickly realise that it’s a type of fishing that requires plenty of options if you’re going to cover all situations.
A variety of different pegs suit fishing a bulk shot float rig
Olivettes or shot?
Olivettes can be slid up or down the line
For bulk-shotted rigs I prefer to use olivettes over shot. They are neater and less prone to tangling. The ones I use can be fixed to the line by pulling a small piece of tight-fitting pole elastic through the hole and trimming it flush with the lead.
This fixes the olivette in place and stops it moving, unless you actually want to slide it yourself.
I use these in sizes from 0.40g all the way up to 10g.
Cut down Avon and Bolo floats are great in shallow water
SHALLOW SWIMS (2ft - 4ft deep)
There was a time when I only used to attack these sorts of depths with a short, stubby balsa float but in recent years I’ve had a lot of success by cutting down the stems of small 2g and 3g Avon and Bolo floats.
As there isn’t much depth to play with on this sort of swim, you’re better off not using a drop shot and instead fixing an olivette or a bulk of shot about 1ft to 18ins above the hook.
When I’m fishing in this way I’m usually targeting barbel or chub, so there isn’t a need for too much finesse as the water will be fast. I use 5lb or 6lb line in these situations and tie the hook direct to the mainline.
Because these swims aren’t very deep I would always sway towards loosefeeding with maggots, casters and hemp or fishmeal pellets.
MEDIUM DEPTH (4ft - 8ft deep)
This depth is where bulk rigs are ideal for a wide variety of species. The choice of float is determined by the species that you are fishing for. If the target fish are roach and dace and the flow is slight then the No4 and No5 Bolos are perfect.
For faster moving water, I use the No1 and No2 models with thicker hollow bristles and for very fast water, the choice is either a No3 Bolo for fishing out in the river or an Avon float for close in work.
Left to right: No.4 Bolo, no.1 Bolo, no.2 Bolo, no.3 Bolo, no.1 Avon, no. 2 Avon
To choose the right size float, always plumb the depth carefully before you actually put a float on the line.
Check the depth close in and well out as there could be a big difference and once you’re happy that you know what the depths are at different points in the river, use 1g to 2g of float capacity for every 2ft of water. Depending on the flow, this could mean a 4g or an 8g float in 8ft of water.
Position an olivette or a bulk of shot around 18in to 2ft from the hook with a single No6 drop shot about 10in from the hook.
Most of the time I would use loose feed for this depth range but there are times when groundbait can work well in conjunction with a bulk rig. This would usually be mixed with soil to a ration of 75per cent groundbait and 25per cent soil, with a small ball every cast.
DEEP SWIMS (8ft - 14ft deep)
Left to right: no.1 Bolo, no.2 Bolo, no.3 Bolo, no.4 Bolo, no.5 Bolo, no.2 Alloy Avon
Bulk rigs really come into their own in very deep water, and it was this sort of situation that first alerted me to the effectiveness of the approach way back in 1992, when I watched the Italian National team practising for the World Championships in Ireland.
I learned a lot that day, and ever since then Bolo floats have played a big part in my fishing.
For slow-moving water, the choice is a larger size of No4 or No5 Bolo, and as the speed of the flow picks up, the choice is either a big No1 or No2 Bolo or a big Avon. As a general guide, 1g to 2g of float capacity for every 3ft of depth is about right so a 10ft deep swim would demand a float taking from 5g to10g, depending on flow speed.
With the bigger float I change from a No6 dropper to a No4 and it works in just the same way.
In these depths, groundbait plays much more of a part in my approaches and if the river is flowing fast I use a 50/50 mix of groundbait and soil.
The extra weight helps to get the balls of groundbait down to the bottom quickly but the balls break up fast when they’re on the riverbed, allowing loose particles like casters and hemp to attract fish into the swim.
A nice chub caught on a bulk-shotted float rig
Dave Harrell is recognised as one of the country’s best-ever river anglers. He has fished for England at World and European level and now runs his own tackle company. For more information go to: www.daveharrellangling.com