Commercial Fishing Tips | Catch a big weight of perch with Steve Ringer
Over the last few years, one fish that’s really come to the fore on commercial fisheries up and down the country is the perch.
And I’m not talking about just catching the odd one either because weights in excess of 50lb of perch have been caught on some waters. That’s exceptional fishing in anyone’s book. In fact, big perch have become so important on some lakes that they have acquired their own nickname of MVPs (most valuable perch)!
That’s certainly true in matches when the carp aren’t really feeding and five or six big perch for 10lb-plus can make a big difference at the final whistle, but for pleasure fishing, I think targeting perch can be even more rewarding.
They grow to quite a fair size and can be caught on relatively simple tactics too, so there’s no need for you to break out the specimen-hunting gear to have the chance of netting a 2lb-plus fish!
When the carp aren’t really feeding, five or six big perch for 10lb-plus can make a big difference
Fish the margins
The best place to target perch on commercials is in the margins. They love to patrol the edges, and if your margins have a feature such as an overhanging tree, that’s even better. You want to be fishing in 3ft of water to catch large numbers of perch. In fact, the deeper the edge is, the better it will be.
The best place to target perch on commercials is in the margins
Top perch baits
Worms are a good bait for perch, but once the water temperature drops, maggots and casters are better. Double maggot is a decent-sized hookbait, and when the water is clear fishing one white and one red maggot makes a huge difference. The white maggot definitely gets you more bites.
Double maggot is a decent-sized hookbait
Strike hard!
Big perch have very hard, bony mouths. Setting the hook when perch fishing is key, so I use a slightly heavier elastic, Orange Hydro. You need to strike firmly – a gentle lift won’t cut it! You also need to be patient when the float goes under. Try and wait that extra second before striking.
Setting the hook when perch fishing is key
Feeding tips
Little and often is usually best, but I’ll try and give the fish an hour to settle. Starting feed is 10 to 15 maggots or casters every 90 seconds or so, which I then adjust accordingly once I’ve made the switch. If there are lots of small perch, I’ll up the amount I’m feeding to draw in some bigger ones.
Up the amount of feed to draw in some bigger ones
Specimen Fishing Tips | Live or dead baits for big perch? - Rich Wilby
Big perch, especially in waters that contain no pike, live on small fish, making these a very selective bait.
Perch get big from a diet of small fish
On most venues where the method is permitted, a small livebait around 4ins long is a superb perch bait.
The perch paternostered float live bait rig
By comparison, deadbaits often – but not always – come in a poor second.
That said, lip-hooked deads fished ‘sink and draw’ style can produce the goods on some days.
I’d always go with a livebait where allowed, though!
Livebaits are the number 1 bait for big perch
Lure Fishing Tips | Lures for big autumn perch - Mat Woods
Early in autumn it’s a case of searching for fish. The best way to cover a lot of water is to pick a shad pattern with a paddle tail. One that I’ve caught loads of perch on is the Quantum Q Paddler in the smallest 8cm size.
A cracking autumn perch
There are lots of colours to have a go with, but I find something that looks like a fish to be most productive, because smaller bait fish like roach are still scattered about and there are a lot of them for perch to eat!
A 3g jig head is perfect for canals
I fish a Paddler with a dark back and silvery sides on a Korum Squirm Head jig head – a 3g head on canals, 5g or 7g for rivers. Heavy jig heads aren’t needed as perch will normally be in slack areas on running water where the flow is much slower.
The lure’s paddle tail causes it to waggle and mimic the swimming action of a wounded prey fish.
Lure Fishing Tips | What style retrieve to use for perch? - Julian Chidgey
There’s no correct answer to this, as it can change hourly on any given day.
Early and late in the day, or when you can see perch striking at fry, fish higher in the water column, as the perch will see the lure more easily. Soft plastics fished on jig heads are perfect for covering the water quickly in such conditions.
In bright sunshine or very cold weather, you often need to slow things down and present the lure close to where the perch are. Try a ‘creature’ bait crawled along the bottom close to structures and shaded areas.
Creature baits crawled along the bottom are deadly
You could also try a drop shot rig, which will allow for a more finessed presentation.
The drop-shot rig
River Fishing Tips | Six tips to catch big fish on the pole - Steve Harwood
RIVERS are full of all kinds of obstacles that make many anglers nervous when fishing for larger species such as bream, tench, chub and perch. Weed is the most common of these snags but there's no need to put the pole away when fishing around the green stuff. Here are six of my top tips to beat it…
Big river fish can be caught on the pole
Use heavy floats
Get the bait down fast with a float from 1.5g to 2g and all the weight down the line.
Big floats help get the baits down fast
Big baits rule
Two halves of dendra worm are best for Thames bream and perch, fished overdepth.
Try fishing big baits over depth
Get the feed down
Roughly chopped worms are packed into crumb with casters and dead maggots.
Pack your ground bait full of feed
Don’t go too light
I use a 14-16 Gamakatsu 2210B hook with 0.15mm hooklength and 0.18mm mainline.
Don’t go too small with hooks
Soft & strong elastic
You’ll lose fish in the weed if your elastic is too light. I fish white or grey grade Hydrolastic: soft yet powerful.
Light elastic will see you lose more fish
Prime the swim
A baitdropper delivers choppy without spillage, allowing me to put the rig directly on top of where those worms are.
Bait droppers are great for delivering bait into a river swim
River Fishing Tips | Perch on the pole with Cameron Hughes
Faced with the whole river to go at, I look for a couple of things where perch are concerned – a slow flow and good depth close to cover.
River perch like slow flow and cover
Cover is vital as it gives perch an ambush point, so reeds, weed or lilies are good but there has to be sufficient depth, certainly a minimum of 5ft.
In some swims, you won’t have that so you’ll have to work with what you’ve got. Slacker water is important because again, perch will wait here to ambush smaller fish – I’ve never found them to be that keen on sitting in the main flow.
In many instances, you’ll be almost margin fishing with the pole pointing down the edge of the river. The pole is unbeatable for precision placement of the hookbait close to cover, and would always be my choice over rod-and-line tackle.
The margins are a real hotspot for river perch
Specimen Fishing Tips | Popped up worms for perch - Jamie Cartwright
Most of the time perch are more than happy to pick worms up off the deck. The only time I really resort to popping them up is when there is leaves or weed in the swim, as that can adversely affect good presentation.
When that’s the case, I simply hook the worm through the head and inject a tiny amount of air into the tail. I still want the worm to sink, but really slowly, and doing it like this means that on the bottom the tail sits up like a cobra ready to strike, making it visible and enticing to a hungry perch.
Jamie’s perch rig
A word of caution – if you are going to inject air into worms, make sure you work on a hard surface. Accidentally injecting air into your bloodstream is extremely dangerous!
Jamie has caught a number of huge specimen perch in recent years
Lure Fishing Tips | Beat the weed for perch - Sam Edmonds
Lure fishing at this time of year can have many challenges, mainly the abundance of aquatic vegetation that has to be negotiated without constantly snagging up.
I like to use shallow-diving, floating crankbaits, worked above the weed. Try pausing the retrieve now and then and the lure will float up, allowing you to start working it again.
A selection of crankbaits
A soft bait, rigged Texas-style, are also worth a go. To add weight, rig it on an offset jighead or with a small bullet weight. Spinnerbaits can also work well, because the hook rides upwards to avoid most snags.
A Texas rigged creature bait
Lure Fishing Tips | Busting the jig jargon with Mat Woods
There are lots of ways to present jigs and for those who aren’t familiar with the jargon surrounding the subject, here is what each phrase means in terms of presentation…
Texas Rigging
Using a specially offset hook, you rig the bait so the hook isn’t exposed and fix a small bullet weight on the line with a float stop to create a ‘jighead-style’ profile. Great in weed, snags or in clear water where the fish have wised up to traditional jigging techniques.
Carolina Rigging
Using the same offset hook rigging technique as for the Texas rig, this offers the lure on a hooklength boom that is a few feet away from a running bullet weight. A glass bead by the hooklength swivel creates a ticking noise with the weight that sparks an aggressive response from perch.
Jigging
A normal jighead gets threaded into the lure to leave the hookpoint totally exposed. It’s the purest form of jigging. Matching your lure size to the hook size is really important.
Drop Shotting
This offers a weight at the end of the line, with a hook tied directly to the line above it. It means the bait won’t contact the lakebed, so you can work your lure up in the water. Great in very cold conditions.
River fishing tips with Dave Harrell
Top river angler Dave Harrell has been answering some of your most burning questions. Take a look at see what you can take out onto the bank with you this weekend.
BLOCKEND OR OPEN?
Q) Which is the best sort of feeder for chub fishing in the winter? I’ve got blockend and open-end but I am never sure which to use.
A) I would go down the blockend route with maggots while it’s cold. Chub love maggots, and if they’re hungry they won’t be able to resist! Use a long tail of around 3ft to 4ft if bites are slow.
ARTIFICIAL MAGGOTS
Q) Is it worth trying artificial maggots? They look so realistic but I’ve yet to use them as hookbait.
A) They’re well worth trying if you are being pestered by small fish, as you know there will always be something that looks edible on the hook. I’ve caught a lot of chub and barbel on pleasure sessions with this tactic, using one or two artificial maggots. Bear in mind that artificial baits are banned in matches but allowed in pleasure sessions.
RIG PROBLEMS
Q) I keep getting tangles when I use Bolo or Avon floats. I use three or four shots below the olivette but it’s frustrating, as the line ends up in a bird’s nest as often as not! What am I doing wrong?
A) You need to change your shotting pattern for starters. Just use an olivette 2ft from the hook with one dropper fixed 10ins above the hook and it wont tangle.
If it’s windy, always cast off the side that the wind is blowing to, as this, too, will eliminate tangles.
BEST PERCH BAITS?
Q) I fancy doing some river perch fishing before the season ends. What baits should I use?
A) Perch are greedy fish and they will eat all livebaits, but for best results use chunks of lobworm or even a whole one. Perch love them!
CANE OR HOLLOW TIPS?
Q) Am I better using painted cane or hollow tips on my Bolo floats? I always thought that cane was supposed to be the best.
A) I used to use painted cane tips, but don’t carry any now. Hollow tips are the best, as you can see them so much better, especially if there is any sun on the water.
WILL I CATCH BARBEL?
Q) I’ve been following water temperatures on the River Severn matches Facebook page and it’s been between 4°C and 5°C recently. Will I be able to catch barbel with it as low as this?
A) While not impossible, I think you could be in for a struggle trying to catch barbel until the water warms up. You’d be better off targeting chub while it stays cold, and going for barbel when it’s up to at least 8°C.
SPECI WAGG OR TRUNCHEON?
Q) I fish a lot of fast-flowing rivers but I’m confused about waggler choice. Should I use a Speci or Truncheon design?
A) If your swim is fast and shallow (3ft to 4ft) you should use a Speci Waggler, as the short design is perfect for these depths.
If your swim is over 4ft and up to around 8ft deep the Truncheon Waggler is better because it is longer and easier to control, especially if it’s windy.
SHOULD I TRY TARES?
Q) I love catching big roach and had a lot of success with seed baits in the summer. Is it worth using tares on the hook in the winter?
A) I, too, love big roach and have caught loads on tares in the summer months but not in winter. I think you’re better off using maggots or casters when the temperature is down.
WHY SOIL?
Q) I’ve noticed that you use a lot of soil in your groundbait mixes. Why is this?
A) I’ve used soil in my groundbait for many years. It gives the mix weight, which is important if the river is flowing quickly. I add about three pints of soil to two 1.5kg bags of groundbait.
Perch fishing tips | 7 tips to catch more perch
Perch fishing has grown massively in popularity over the past few years, to help you stay on trend and make the most from your perch fishing ventures we have put together seven top tips to help you catch more perch. Take a look at the tips below and see what you can implement on your next session.
1) This species will react to movement of the bait so if your fishing a static bait, keep twitching it because this will often induce a bite from a perch.
2) Attract silver fish and big perch will follow. Try introducing a few maggots or a couple of balls of groundbait before making your first cast. Perch love to investigate and the sight of feeding silverfish will peak their interest.
3) Don’t use a rod that's too stiff in the tip. This species will shake their head under the rod tip. you will also want a tip that's very responsive as perch can be very finicky when it comes to bites.
4) Perch have bony mouths so use a big, strong hooks because hook ‘pulls’ are often the main cause of lost fish and will shake their head while hooked.
5) Drop shotting is a devastating tactic for catching big perch. This will often get you a bite when all other methods fail. It has become a very popular tactic in recent years and makes going out for a couple of hours very easy as you don't need much kit to be able to catch.
6) When fishing worms in coloured water try cutting two lobworms in half and hook four broken pieces. This gives you maximum attraction from the release of the baits juices.
7) Try using flavourings and colourings to make any small deadbait stand out.
Commercial perch fishing with a pole
Commercial carp are slowing down in the lower temperatures, but there’s one species you can always rely on for bites – the perch.
Most fisheries hold good stocks of these predators, some of which grow to phenomenal sizes. Often they are encountered by chance, but by adopting a tailored approach it’s possible to make the most of these often untargeted fish.
Angling Times news reporter Freddie Sandford visited Buttonhole Lake near Wisbech, Cambs, and outlined his simple approach for commercial stripeys…
For more great tips from top anglers head to this year’s The Big One Show
Perfect Presentation
“The most important factor in my approach is the way I present my hookbait, and this varies depending on how the perch are feeding.
“The first bait I always try is two casters impaled on a size 16 hook. A light rig with strung-out shot allows the casters to fall delicately through the water alongside loosefed offerings, and I expect bites just as the bait hits the deck.
“If no indications come within moments of my float settling this tells me that the perch aren’t intercepting my bait on the drop, and are likely to be mooching around on the lakebed, watching over my loosefeed. In this instance I change to a worm hookbait and bulk my shot towards the bottom of my rig. This puts me in direct control of my hookbait, allowing me to jig the worm to induce a bite.”
The Session
“On the day I caught the majority of my fish on casters, but later in the session a small worm jigged through the swim picked off a few larger fish that were settled over my feed.
“Give both these baits a try to keep catching in the cold.”
The Margins
Perch love to lurk over the marginal shelves in search of prey, making the edges the perfect place to target them. I like to find the bottom of the nearside shelf and fish one line in front of me and another in the margins.
Fishing two swims helps to keep bites coming throughout the day, as this gives the fish somewhere to retreat should they become spooked on one of the lines.
Perch Baits
There is no need for a complex bait tray when targeting perch, and I look no further than a few pints of casters and a small pack of worms.
Both swims are initially fed with a few chopped dendrobaenas and a pinch of casters, and throughout the day I like to flick a few casters over both lines. I never feed large amounts of bait as, in my experience, this can bring in lots of unwanted small fish.”
Perch fishing tips | Dig out the worms and catch more!
If there is one time of the year when targeting a big perch becomes a reality, it has to be autumn.
For more great tips from top anglers head to this year’s The Big One Show
Clearing water and cooler temperatures seem to trigger this predator into hunting strongly, and while a dedicated big-fish approach using small livebaits or lures can produce the perch of a lifetime, you can also play the numbers game and keep busy with a netful of smaller stripeys – with the chance of a proper monster thrown into the mix.
Canals, rivers, drains and even commercial fisheries all hold plenty of perch, and a 2lb fish is never out of the question.
Lobworms and a chopped worm feed approach remain one of the best ways to catch them.
Former England international Mark Pollard knows about big perch better than most. The Matrix match legend has caught fish to almost 4lb during his match fishing exploits on canals and Fen drains down the years, and he has a relatively simple plan of pole fishing attack to keep the float going under.
Follow Mark’s advice for every chance of a perch personal best…
Feeding
“My feed is surprisingly minimal for a greedy fish like perch. Each time I feed, I deposit around an eggcup-full of bait. This is made up of around 12 dendra worms and a single lobworm roughly chopped, plus 20 or so casters.
“How to feed is very important, and I’d go for cupping in every time – this lets the feed fall through the water naturally. A bait dropper comes into play in stronger flows, or if I want to concentrate the feed in one spot and twitch the hookbait over it on harder days.”
Move the hookbait
“I inject life into the hookbait by flicking the rig to the side four or five times, lifting it 6ins out of the water and letting it drop around half-a-dozen times.
“Lifting and jigging the rig is like drop shotting with lures. What I’m trying to achieve is to get a perch annoyed at seeing the worm flicking about all over the place and goad it into taking the bait.”
Rigs
In coloured water, a heavy rig is best. This is made up of 0.16mm Pro Micron mainline, a 0.14mm hooklink, a size 14 SW Feeder hook to a 4x14 MP Carp 1 float and orange hollow Matrix elastic. With minimal visibility, there’s no need to go fine, but in gin-clear water I go as low as 0.14mm main and an 0.12mm hoolink. I’ll keep the size 14 hook, though.
Where to fish
I have two lines at the bottom of both slopes – close in and right across. This is where natural food washed in off the banks gathers. It is important to have these lines well away from each other so there’s no risk of splitting a shoal of perch up. I’ll also fish ‘down the peg’, so although I may only be fishing 4m out on the short line, I’ll use 10m of pole and have my swim several metres down the swim.
Top hookbaits
Hookbait is half a lobworm tail around 1.5ins-2ins long, but a small tail segment can work, as can three-quarters of the worm. Dendras are a good change bait using the worm nipped off just past the saddle. Double caster can also be brilliant.
The Right Timing
“I’ll feed my worm lines from the off, but actually start off fishing for roach elsewhere in the peg, giving the worm time to settle. After 15 or 20 minutes I’ll have a go on the worm to see if an early perch is about.
“Judging how long to stay on these lines is something a lot of anglers get wrong, though.
“I go on the worm and if I catch one, I stay on it, but of nothing happens, I come off it, feed again and go back to the roach. Big perch should be treated as a bonus, and if one is present, it will have a go immediately. I then have a look back on the worm every 30 to 40 minutes.
“Late in the day, when the light begins to fade, is a great time for perch, so don’t be too down-hearted if not much happens early on in the session.
“I’d plan to fish the worm line for a little longer than normal towards the end of the day. When it all comes together, you can catch a fish on every drop in a peg that earlier seemed devoid of perch.”
20 ways to boost your winter river catches
REGULAR FEEDING
Try to get into a routine where you feed before you cast and then feed again at the end of the run. You can also fit another feed in between, as a steady trickle of bait going through the swim all the time will work much better than just one handful every now and again.
LINE CONTROL
When you’re floatfishing on a river, always cast downstream to ensure that your line is in the correct position to start off with. Cast in front or upstream and you’ll end up with a big bow in the line. Another thing to keep in mind is rod position while you’re fishing. Keep the rod pointing downstream and you’ll hit more bites, as you’ll be able to pick up a lot of line.
ESSENTIAL INFO
Use the venue information in Angling Times to search out new venues. There are loads of good river stretches and maybe now is the time to try new ones.
Another useful source of information is tackle shops. There is usually a wealth of local fishery knowledge inside, so talk to the people who work there and ask their advice on where best to go.
They want you to succeed, because you’ll go back for more bait and kit if you do!
LINE SPRAY AND FLOATING LINE GREASE
Before you start floatfishing on a moving river, treat your lines with silicone spray. It helps to keep the line floating, which in turn improves control and bait presentation. I also use silicone line grease in pacy water where I might be ‘mending’ the line several times during a run. I take a smear from the tub and coat the line liberally for about two metres above the float.
BE SAFE!
No fish is worth risking your life for, so keep safe when you’re on a riverbank, especially if you’re alone. We’re approaching the time of year when river fishing can be fantastic, so get out there when you can and enjoy it!
ESSENTIAL CLOTHING
While you can buy cheap showerproof clothing from a variety of sources these days, if you want to stay totally dry in the worst of conditions my advice would be to invest in Gore-Tex. Base layers are covered with a Gore-Tex bib and brace, a Windstopper fleece and a Gore-Tex jacket, and I never get wet underneath.
NEOPRENE WADERS
It never ceases to amaze me just how many anglers spend thousands of pounds on kit and then skimp on waders. As far as I’m concerned, any angler who regularly fishes rivers like I do should invest in a pair of neoprene waders. I use the Le Chameau ones which have neoprene lining right down to the toe. Cold feet are now a thing of the past!
GETTING GEAR TO THE SWIM
I now use the largest Riggers platform barrow, the best in terms of design and reliability. Most of the time I use it with a single front wheel but I’ve also now got a pair of rear wheels that I can use if I’m pushing the barrow on hard ground.
Whichever barrow you buy, get one that converts into a platform to allow you to position yourself out in the river. You can then either just use it as a table top or put your seatbox on it.
RODS AND REELS
Think about what you actually want the rods to do and then buy accordingly. Your local tackle shop should be able to advise you on this, or ask the opinions of other anglers if you’re not sure.
The same applies to reels. Think about what you actually need them to do and buy an appropriate size to suit the fishing style. It’s also a good idea to match your rods and reels up so that you’ve got identical kit to use.
FLOATS
One area where I’ve seen a lot of anglers sadly lacking is floats. There are many different situations that you can find yourself in on rivers, yet some anglers seem to want to use their ‘favourite’ float all the time. Take some time out to learn about what you actually need for a given situation and you’ll end up catching loads more fish.
USE THE ENVIRONMENT AGENCY WEBSITE
One of the most useful websites ever for river anglers is the one that is provided by the Environment Agency, which gives regularly updated river levels for rivers all over the country. It’s at www.environment-agency.co.uk
Get into the habit of using it in the winter months, especially as it will save wasted journeys if the rivers are high. You can actually time your trips to perfection when you get to know levels at your favourite venues.
LINES
Good quality line is vitally important for river fishing. It needs to float, as I can then use it for float or feeder work. I’m currently testing some new reel line, as well as a new clear hooklength and rig line, which I’ve been very impressed with so far. The only way to test lines though is by using them over a lengthy period, as most lines are okay for a few outings.
Use a micrometer if you can and check the lines you are using. The stated diameter can be way off!
FEEDERS
Like floats, many anglers just don’t carry enough. Most anglers also don’t have enough additional weight with them to add to the feeder to make it hold bottom. A rolling feeder can work very occasionally but most of the time it will just end up in a snag and be lost. Invest in some add-on weights to make the feeders stay where you want them to.
CASTING
It’s no use having great kit and then chucking a feeder to a different place every time, so work on your accuracy if you fall into this category.
You can use a line clip, of course, to assist you with this but don’t rely on it all the time, as you’ll often catch more by working an area rather than having everything on exactly the same spot.
When you’re floatfishing in windy conditions, always cast off the side that the wind is blowing to. You’ll get far fewer tangles than you will doing it from the other side in this situation.
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES
Things in my seatbox that I’d hate to be without include small nail clippers for cutting line, hook-tyers, disgorgers, plummets, Tipp-Ex for marking depths on my pole and flat-nosed pliers for fixing shot and crimping hook barbs. Double up on all items in case of loss.
FISH CARE
I don’t have a problem with people using keepnets as long as they are used properly and fish have plenty of room and depth of water. I also don’t have a problem with catch shots as long as they are done quickly and efficiently.
For a catch shot, get everything set up before you take the picture. Put a weighing mat or an upside-down wet keepnet underneath the net in which the fish are held. Never photograph a catch shot on hard ground.
GROUNDBAIT OR LOOSEFEED?
Generally, the deeper or faster flowing swims often lend themselves to groundbait approaches, while shallow swims tend to be more about loose feeding.
ASK QUESTIONS, MAKE FRIENDSHIPS
Most anglers love talking fishing to other anglers. If you’re visiting a venue for the first time, talk to other anglers there and ask their advice on the place. Not only will you learn a lot quickly, but you can often forge new friendships along the way.
KEEP GOING
Now that the days are shorter, you will often find that the best catching time on rivers is during the last two hours of daylight. Don’t give up if you can’t catch up for the first couple of hours, as your day could still finish on a high!
RIGS ON WINDERS
Making rigs up at home and storing them on winders will save you loads of time on the riverbank and give you more fishing time instead.
You’ll be more inclined to change rigs to try them rather than staying on a rig you might have started with.
50 Amazing river fishing tips
I don’t know about you, but for me the closed season has really dragged on this time and I can’t wait to get back on running water again!
We’ve had a decent amount of rain over the past few weeks and this has put some much-needed colour and pace back in the rivers. They’re looking good for the start.
Over the course of the season ahead I’ll be visiting loads of different waters.
Some I already know, but I always enjoy going to new places too and we’ve got some great venues lined up for features.
I hope you enjoy readingthem as much as I’m looking forward to doing them.
To get the new series started here are 50 ideas, tips and tactics that you might like to try once the season gets underway.
Over the next few weeks we’ll be looking in depth at how to put bigger catches together using a variety of different approaches.
HOLD ON TIGHT!
Barbel are probably the most exciting river fish to catch. Most people just use a static bait with a feeder or leger rig but it’s more exciting to catch them on float gear, especially in fast water!
DON’T IGNORE MAGGOTS
Maggots are not fashionable with a lot of anglers these days but fish still love them! I never leave home without some.
get comfortable
River banks are seldom as level or manicured as those on commercials. So make sure your box platform is level and that everything is easily to hand before you start fishing.
DOT IT DOWN
Roach and dace require delicate presentation. Shotting your float so that just the merest dimple is showing is often necessary to hit shy bites.
FEED TO RESPONSE
On venues where small fish aren’t so plentiful, always feed to response. If you’re not getting many bites, ease up.
TARGET STRIPEYS!
Loads of venues hold big perch now. Pole fished worms will sort out the big boys!
GO LONG
Pole fishing keeps everything tight and precise. You’re always back in the same spot, and careful feeding can bring big rewards in terms of regular bites!
FISH LIGHT!
To catch roach, you often need to fish ultra-light with 0.08mm hooklengths.
It can mean the difference between catching and not.
ASK QUESTIONS
If other anglers are catching more than you are, don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Most people will be happy to help you.
WATCH A MATCH
This can be a fast track to learn about a venue. You’ll quickly learn about approaches and tactics by watching good anglers doing their stuff.
FISH A MATCH
If you’ve often fancied it but never done it, make this season the one to fish your first match. Your first pick-up will feel fantastic!
BUY A FRIDGE
Maggots can be expensive, especially when you need a lot, so don’t waste them. Invest in an old fridge (or two, like me) and always ensure your bait is chilled right down.
TURN OLD MAGGOTS
Old maggots kept in damp sawdust will turn into casters within a few days in the summer months. You’ll need a couple of good riddles to keep running the bait through.
PLAN AHEAD
I’d be lost without my wall planner. I use it more than a diary now and it really helps me to plan my season ahead. Well worth investing in a new one every year!
FEED PLENTY!
Many of our rivers now have loads of small fish in them and you often need to feed a lot of bait in order to attract bigger fish in. Bulk your bait out with 4mm carp pellets if it’s a problem for you.
Buy A BARROW
I’d be lost without my platform barrow. I use it on all sort of venues and often carry far too much gear with me, just because I can!
TRY NEW VENUES
Make the coming season a more interesting one by trying different venues out. New places offer new challenges!
Tail eXPERIMENT
On certain days a 5ft tail can catch you fish when a 3ft one won’t. Always experiment!
PUT A LOBBY ON!
Lobworms are brilliant for all fish when the water is coloured. Use them whole or in segments.
TRY MEAT
Fish such as barbel and chub love smelly luncheon meat. It’s a bait that too many anglers now ignore.
FISH STRONG!
Where big fish are the quarry, make sure your lines are up to the job. There’s no point hooking big fish if you’re going to lose them!
TRY A SPECI WAGG
If you fish venues where there is fast, shallow water, you will catch more fish on a Speci Waggler than any other rig!
GO SHALLOW
Too many anglers ignore the upper layers when waggler fishing in deep water – a big mistake if the fish are coming up to intercept the feed.
REDFIN HEAVEN!
Roach are my favourite species of all time. I’ll be heading to some favourite early season stretches with hemp and tares as my main bait choices.
TRY CARP PELLETS
I’ve had loads of success with these. I feed 4mm and 6mm and use an 8mm pellet on the hook.
SPLADOOSH!
Swimfeeders can account for some huge bags of fish in the summer, so don’t ignore this tactic if your river of choice is carrying colour.
HAPPY DACE!
Find some fast, shallow water and there’s a very good chance you’ll find a lot of dace as well. There has been an explosion of these fish in recent seasons on big rivers like the Severn.
BOMBS AWAY!
There are times when a straight leger rig with a bomb can outscore a feeder, especially when there are a lot of bream in front of you.
Use A TRUNCHEON
Like Speci Wagglers, Truncheons are very buoyant and work best in fast water where you need a longer float.
LAY A TRAP
Always give yourself somewhere to go if your main line of attack slows down. This might mean feeding big baits somewhere different.
SMALL BLOCKS OF TIME
Split your sessions into 10- and 15-minute intervals. Try different things in these periods until you discover how the fish want the bait presented.
TRY KRILL PELLETS
This is great bait for river barbel when the water is coloured. Use 4mm offerings in
a feeder with an 8mm pellet on the hook.
KEEP IT ON TOP!
For good presentation with float gear you must use a floating line. I use Pro Float in breaking strains from 3lb to 8lb.
GET IT SUNK
For swimfeeder and sunken line floatfishing on slow rivers I use Pro Feeder line in 3lb to 14lb breaking strains.
Hooklength choice
For hooklengths I always use Pro Rig in diameters from 0.08mm to 0.26mm.
IN-LINE OLIVETTES
For big-fish rigs I use
lines from 0.16mm to 0.22mm and In-Line Olivettes from 1g to 10g.
STOCK UP ON SHOT
Too many anglers go fishing with insufficient shot. I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve seen this happen. No excuses, you just need to stock up!
JOIN A CLUB
Club fishing can be a great way to learn, as well as forging new friendships. Your local tackle shop should be able to put you in the right direction in terms of who to contact.
TRY WORMS
All fish love worms, so make sure you carry at least half-a-kilo of dendrobaenas with you to every river session.
ON-LINE OLIVETTES
For fine mainlines of 0.12mm and 0.14mm I always use On-Line Olivettes from 0.60g to 6g. These are locked on to the line with silicone rubber and are easy to move without line damage.
USE A CATTY!
If you need to get your feed out a long way, always make sure you have a few catapults and spare elastics with you.
GO FOR CHUB!
Like barbel, chub love pacey water in the summer months. You can catch them on all sorts of baits, but float tactics work best for big weights.
TRY AN AVON
A great float for pacey rivers with good depth close in. Use with an In-Line Olivette and 5lb to 6lb mainlines.
BABY BOLO!
There was a time when Bolo fishing was all about big floats, but not any more. They now go down to just 1g for swims 5ft to 6ft deep.
BALL IT in!
Several big balls of groundbait at the start of a session can draw a lot of fish into your swim quickly!
DISH THE DIRT
Soil is a great addition to groundbait when you need to get it down quickly. I always have some with me for river sessions.
How to rig your drop shot for perch fishing
There are many ways in which you can present your dropshot rig to your hungry prey. There is no right way when it comes to hooking on your drop shot baits, it is more a case of see what is working on the day. We asked bait expert Dr. Paul Garner to show us some of the best ways to rig your bait while drop shotting for perch.
Worming: Snip off the end of a large worm and feed it around the bend of the hook so that the hook shank is concealed inside it.
Nose hooking: Offering maximum lure movement, just nick the hook in the nose of the bait, leaving most of the hook exposed.
Back hooking: If bites are cautious, back hooking puts the hookpoint further along the bait for a better chance of a hook-up.
Wounded fish: By hooking the bait slightly to the side it will swim erratically off-centre, just like a wounded fish.
Wacky: Ideal for worm baits, hook them in the middle to give twice the attraction – effectively you are fishing two baits, not one.
Weedless: If snags or weed are a problem, hook the bait on like this so that the hookpoint is protected by the bait.
Drop shotting for beginners
Why try Drop Shotting?
If you haven’t already tried drop shotting, chances are you know someone who has! This style of lure fishing for perch is a tactic that’s sweeping through the fishing world quicker than a brush fire.
Drop shotting or light lure fishing for perch is active, dynamic, easy to master, great fun and best of all, you need a minimum amount of tackle to enjoy its rewards. Its also great in winter when perhaps you only get a few hours to go fishing at short notice.
Drop shotting is fun, active and easy to master
Unlike other forms of angling with drop shotting all you need is a small, very light rod and reel, a pocket full of terminal bits and a few tiny lures. Kit you can keep in the back of your car!
Drop shotting or light lure fishing for perch is active, dynamic, easy to master, great fun and best of all, you need a minimum amount of tackle to enjoy its rewards. Its also great in winter when perhaps you only get a few hours to go fishing at short notice.
Venues like canals are ideal for trying out this deadly tactics but it also works on stillwaters and rivers too. Not sure where to go? Try our recommended venues
What is drop shotting?
Drop shot fishing offers lure anglers a highly effective way of targeting smaller predatory species such as perch, zander and pike.
Unlike traditional lure and plug fishing, where a plastic or rubber bait is attached to the end of a wire trace before being cast and retrieved, dropshotting sees the lure being presented very differently. As it is primarily a tool for catching perch, the leader is a length of fluorocarbon, with the hook being tied around 12 to 20 inches up the line.
The casting weight comes in the shape of a special dropshot lead that is attached to the end of this fluorocarbon leader. The hook is then ‘baited’ with a 1in-3in rubber lure and the rig is cast.
Small movements on the lure attracts the fish when drop shotting
Essential kit
Rod: There are many dedicated dropshot rods on the market. They have a stiff mid-to-butt section, for setting the hook in to the very bony mouths of predators, while the tip is very light. This allows you to impart the all-important action into the lure. Lure rods are weight measured. For drop-shotting a 0-15 gram model is ideal.
Reel: Becuase you are holding the rod in your hand for long periods a small light reel is essential. Most tackle companies cater for this with tiny reels in the 1000 to 2500 size range.
Line: A thin 0.06 to 0.10mm braid is ideal for drop shotting. With zero stretch it allows the angler to easily impart the movement on the lure and youll feel the often subtle perch bites more readily. It also casts better than mono.
Leader: As described earlier a flourocarbon leader is great for drop shotting. Around 2ft in length is enough. This is tied to the braid by knot or to a micro swivel. The breaking strain is determined by the venue you are fishing and the size of fish expected. A good starting point is 6lb.
Hooks: Drop shot hooks have a unique shape so that the lure will sit horizontally in the water, at right angles to the leader. The are also fairly fine wired but larger in size than ordinary match hooks although some lure anglers like to use match fishing hooks as small as a size 14.
Weights: The actual dropshot is usually either a ball or a long pencil shape. The ball, being denser, enables you to ‘feel’ the lure easier. The pencil weights are generally used where it is snaggy, weedy or rocky. Use the lightest weight you can as you’ll feel the bites much better. A general rule is you use 1g per one foot of water on stillwaters and canals, 2g-3g per foot on rivers, depending on strength of flow. All dropshot weights have a pinched swivel, which enables the weight to be quickly and easily moved up and down the leader, which adjusts how far off bottom the lure will fish.
Lures: The actual lure is what elicits the bite. The number now on the market is legion, but the one element they have in common is they are all small, up to 3in maximum, with most being between one-inch and two. Tail shape – whether pin, paddle or curly, and colour – can all affect the day. The type of tail gives different forms and strengths of vibration in the water, while colour-wise, a guidline to follow is bright in coloured water, muted in clear. Always carry plenty of different lures, changing them regularly until you find one that works better on the day.
Other kit: A small landing net is essential as is an unhooking mat as often you will be fishing on concrete banks on urban canals. Items like forceps in case you catch a pike and scissors are also handy. Dont forget some scales in case you hook a monster!
Tie the rig
The best way to attach the hook is to use a palomar knot. this ensures that the hook also sits at 90-degrees to the leader. The quite often have either an out turned eye or a straight eye again to exaggerate this.
How to Drop Shot
The idea is that once the rig is in the water and the weight is on the bottom, the angler is able to impart movement into the tiny lure with delicate flicks of the rod tip working it in any area for as long as he chooses.
The trick is to not retrieve the lure like you would a spinner when drop shotting. Instead keep the weight on the bottom and move the lure gently to induce a take. The benefit of this is that it allows you to lure fish in really tight areas or tight up to feature where predators like to hide.
The special weights, which can be found at most good tackle shops or online, allow you to move them anywhere underneath the lure in order to adjust the depth at which the lure sits. A good place to start is around 6 - 8 inches from the bottom.
Where to fish
Canal Locks are perch magnets
Canals: Your local cut is ideal for drop shotting. They are full of features such as locks and marinas and these are the places to look for. Most predators like to sit very close to boats and the bank itself so target these when fishing.
Rivers: Slow moving rivers like the Thames, Soar and Weaver are ideal for drop shotting. You may need to take heavier weights to combat the flow. Slack areas, lock cuttings and islands re all hotspots.
Stillwaters: Its work checking your local commercials as some allow drop-shotting in winter. Other stillwaters such as park lakes are good and you never know what might be lurking in specimen carp pits too. Look for drop-offs and features like overhanging trees.
Check out this page for a list of top drop shotting waters near you.
Get it right and drop shotting can produce huge perch like this.
Perch fishing lures and how to attach them.
Short on time and want to get out on the bank? Then look no further as we have the answer for you. Setting up a lure for perch fishing is one of the simplest and easiest ways to get you fishing in a short space of time. We got bait expert Dr. Paul Garner to show us the best way to rig up a perch fishing lure for when you are next on the bank!
To see more great perch fishing tips then check out our species page here
1) Always use a wire trace. Although I do not go looking for pike, the chances are that one will come along at some point, and a trace ensures that I can land it safely.
2) Crankbaits need only be clipped on and you are ready to go. Don’t economise on the safety clip, butchoose a branded item that won’t let you down.
3) Use a weighted jig head with shads and creatures. Hold the hook next to the lure and make a slight mark on the back in the position where the hook will exit.
4) Push the point of the hook into the front of the bait and carefully work it into the soft plastic. Take your time and make sure that it goes in straight.
5) Approximately 50 per cent of the gape of the hook should be left exposed beyond the back of the lure when it is rigged correctly with the hook through the mark you have already made in step
6) If snagging or weed is a problem consider a weedless jig hook. This has a large offset gape that the fish will push through the bait, revealing the hook, when it bites down on the lure.
Your guide to fishing a weir pool
If you're looking to catch an abundance of different species on a river this season then you really need to give a weir pool a try.
Weirs are a haven for a number of species thanks to the warm, oxygenated water that’s constantly being flushed through the swim. Food items naturally collect in the basins of weirs too, and there’s plenty of underwater features to create the perfect home for predatory species such as pike, perch and zander.
However, weir pools can be quite daunting for those who have never fished one before, so Angling Times is here to help. Here’s our exclusive overview of these fantastic river structures which will explain where you can expect to find each species and what tactics you can use to catch them, whatever you fish for.
Dace
dace are widespread in weir pools. They, too, thrive in shallow water much like the minnows, and can be found in numbers at the tail end of the weir. A trotted stick float or waggler with bronze maggots will find plenty of bites from these stunning fish – with the odd roach, perch and minnow too.
Roach
Roach can be caught from most areas. In the summer they can shoal up in shallow water over the gravel at the end of the weir, but will also drift into the deep hole created by the main flow. A maggot feeder is hard to beat for a weir pool roach, but watch out for those pike, which love to snap up a hooked roach as you wind it in.
Minnow
Those of you who have fished with maggots or pinkies on a river will have caught plenty of minnows in your time. These tiny fish thrive in shallow water with lots of gravel, and can be found relatively close to the bank at the tail end of a weir. Although regarded as an afterthought to many anglers, those looking to catch a big perch from a weir pool won’t find a better bait than a live minnow.
Chub
chub love gravel swims and can be found in all areas of the weir pool. You’ll find you will catch a lot of chub while fishing for the barbel, but if you want to target them deliberately few things can surpass a large piece of breadflake or a whole lobworm. They will also take small lip-hooked livebaits. Chub won’t venture far from the main flow, so aim your attack here to catch a few.
Bream
A weir pool is a great place for bream to pick up food items that have been washed downstream. They are often found in the deep holes at the bottom of the weir pool. Cast a heavy cage feeder stuffed with groundbait or liquidised bread around 5ft from the weir sill and fish flake, double corn or lobworm on the hook.
Barbel
Barbel fishing on a weir pool has to be up there with the best fishing around. These fish love fast, oxygenated water over gravel. When you’ve leaded around and found solid gravel use a bait dropper to introduce boilies, pellets and particles. Over this fish a bomb with a big pellet or chunk of meat to catch. The undercut directly under the sill of the weir also offers a good refuge for these fish.
Perch
Perch thrive in the snaggy features, as do the juvenile fish they eat! You can find perch under the weir sill, in shallow water and just where the gravel shelf drops off into deeper water. A chubber float with a lobworm is a superb tactic, but maggots will also catch. Big perch can be tempted on spinners, small jigs or lip-hooked livebaits.
Pike
Wherever there’s an abundance of silverfish such as roach or dace the pike won’t be far away. They’ll often skulk at the bottom of the weir pool or on the gravel shelf, from where they can easily ambush their prey. If there are limited snags at the bottom of the weir a legered roach or lamprey section is hard to beat for a pike. Alternatively a spinner or roach-imitation lure will get a reaction.
Six brilliant tips for fishing for big perch
There’s no better time than right now to catch your biggest ever perch!
Unlike many species, perch begin to spawn in the next few weeks and because of this, they are hungry, looking to pack on weight before they begin to breed. So whatever the weather is doing, they’ll be feeding at some point during the day.
So where should you head to target a specimen stripey? Well, you can find them in almost any water but over the last decade or so, the commercial carp fishery has proved to be a happy hunting ground for the angler in search of a big perch.
The fish aren’t as pressured as perch in rivers and canals, and carp lakes are home to a plentiful supply of small silverfish to hunt.However, finding the biggest fish isn’t as easy as simply turning up and casting out a rod with a couple of maggots on the hook.
In fact, perch fishing on commercials has seen unique tactics evolve alongside baits that you wouldn’t normally use anywhere else.In the first of our new ‘six steps to...’ series, Angling Times pinpoints six ‘musts’ for the angler looking to bag a big perch on the carp lakes.
You don’t need to alter tackle radically, and sourcing the bait and feed takes little more than a trip down to the supermarket or into the garden.
Step 1. Find your quarry
Find the small fish and you’ll find the perch – it’s that simple on a commercial. Any match angler will tell you that around 5m out on the pole is a great area for catching roach, so it makes sense to put much of your effort into fishing here around two rodlengths out, especially if there is a natural drop-off in depth – a classic perch ambush point. However, as on rivers, any sort of cover will also be used by perch. That means rushes, overhanging trees or bushes, islands and even the pallet on an empty peg next door – essentially, anywhere that a perch can lurk in wait to ambush prey fish.
Step 2. Get your timing right
Early and late are great times for catching perch on natural waters, when low light levels make it easy for a fish to stalk its prey. On commercial fisheries it is no different, so to stack the odds in your favour, set the alarm early and try to be the first on to the lake in the morning, or hold on until the very end of the day when the sun begins to set. The difference in sport can be astounding.
Set your alarm early and try to be the first one on the lake in the morning.
Step 3. Go for a float
Float or leger will catch plenty of perch but the float does offer more sensitivity, as well as letting you cover more of the swim. A standard waggler works well but because you are often fishing at short range, a pole float may well serve you better. Many top specimen hunters slide a delicate float of around 0.5g on to the line as there’s no real casting involved, and the pay-off is that there’s minimal effort needed on the part of the perch to produce a positive bite.
A float offers more sensitivity, as well as letting you cover more of the swim
Step 4. Hair-rig your worms
Perch, whether they live in a canal or commercial fishery, love worms, and lobworms are a good starting point, especially the soft tail end – which perch seem to take without a trace of caution. Don’t ignore smaller dendrobaenas as they make a super change bait. Try a couple impaled on a bait spike or even hair-rigged if you have the patience. Dendras are very lively and keep on wriggling, drawing in curious perch. Hair-rigging will create minimal resistance when a fish takes the bait.
Step 5. Dye your prawns
Specific to commercial fisheries has been the use of prawns on the hook – although carp love them just as much as perch! However, a soft raw king prawn impaled on a size 12 hook is just the job if little fish are proving troublesome with maggots and worms. A great trick is to pep up a prawn in clear water by changing its colour, and that’s easily done by leaving a handful of prawns in a little water to which a bright red bait dye has been added. The resulting vivid hookbait will soon be sniffed out by a perch.
Leave prawns in water to which bright red bait dye has been added.
Step 6. Get the scissors out
AS well as making great hookbaits, prawns can be used as loosefeed when broken in half and either catapulted out or thrown in by hand. To fully maximise the fishy scent of prawns, though, set about them with a pair of scissors, chopping them into fine pieces, almost the consistency of a mush. These can then be fed using a bait dropper alongside maggots or chopped worms, or added to some soil out of the garden when you are fishing deeper water.
TACKLE FOR BIG PERCH
Fox Rage Spikey Shad lures
With 264 spikes, each bright lure causes vibrations in the water which perch find hard to resist!
Commercial/Stillwater waggler float set
A range of insert and straight wagglers which are ideal for sensitive bite indication from large, wary perch.
Fox Rage Prism Micro Fused braid
This is a specialist high-performance braid for lure fishing, with an emphasis on finesse and jigging, and a very fine diameter.
Korum Snapper KDS 2000 reel
Tailored for lure fishing, this neat little reel has a skeletal body to reduce weight dramatically.
SPECIAL OFFER!
Get this super Abu Garcia Complete Drop Shotting Kit for just £59.99! Perfect for light lure fishing for perch!